Flargh!

Have you checked if there are any fault codes in the ecu?

What sort of filter were you running, the standard unit or a decent hi flow panel filter? As someone said above, you need a decent sized turbo to suck more than the standard box can flow.

Perhaps thats your problem then. Mine is 0.44 at idle with engine off and 3.90 at WOT Engine running i have 0.41 at idle and 3.79 at around 6000 rpm.

ECU adjust fuel according to water temp i think. Perhaps the sensor is faulty and it's still running on cold start settings which would be rich i suspect??? No idea if that would cause your drama though.

If you're replacing a mechanical gauge with another mechanical then it should be pretty straight forward. But an electrical gauge in place of a manual will require the appropriate sender, and some wiring to be done.

Unless that nipple is running the wastegate and the solenoid has been by-passed for some reason.

Darn tootin! Cursed bloody thing!

Perhaps you should take it to whoever it was that removed it, and get them to re install the turbo. The big one at the bottom is the oil drain, the one on the opposite side of the housing to it, is the oil inlet. The remaining pipe will be one of two water lines, but there should be two of them, one inlet and one out let. The hose in the green circle is a boost line that activates the wastegate actuator. I'd say it should be connected to the one by the clutch reservoir that's been sealed off with a screw.

Strangely enough, my code 26 error seems to have righted itself and hasn't made a reappearance. Go figure!

Run a test and see what error codes pop up.

Hmmmm from memory the top outlet on that solenoid goes to the BOV recirc pipe, that enters the suction pipe, (The pipe leading to the turbo inlet with AFM and air filter at the other end). The bottom one goes to a three way T fitting, with one branching off to the wastegate actuator, and one going to a nipple on the compressor outlet/intercooler pipe.

Yep that's it. It's bolted to the strut, right behind the power steering reservoir.

Hose kinked somewhere and not letting air through maybe? Probably somewhere you cant see and in the worst bastard of a place to get at.

Alrighty, i'm keen to have a crack at this. Having read through a section of the service manual for the R34 gtt for adjusting idle it says to, "perform IACV-AAC VALVE ADJ in WORK SUPPORT" mode with consult before you make the adjustment, and when you've finished the adjustments it says, cancel "IACV-AAC VALVE ADJ in WORK SUPPORT" mode with consult. WTF does all that do/mean??

Colour code is WV2-G which according to the paint code thread is sparkling silver. although the codes in there don't have the G. Any chance of a pic? NA_Goodness: I'm after something that looks stock but lets plenty of air in the front, so it would suit me just fine if the S1 fits the S2 model.

I see. I wonder if the series one would fit straight on? Probably be massively expensive though and hard to get. But it would also be made from abs plastic and not fibre glass so it wouldn't crack. Nah not even close lol.

Mines stock and it looks nothing like that. You guys must get a different one to us Here's mine. No air flow in the front for a FMIC I'm in the Waikato

What's that front bar and where the hell can i get one???

Is there an easy way to do this? I mean it's not a 30 second job to hook the inductive clamp up to the plug wire seeing as it's buried in the depths of the friggen engine, under covers and piping and all manner of crap. Is there a secret squirrel place to hook it up that the lovely nissan engineers built into the system? Also, is there anything else that needs doing, like in the older cars where you had to pop the vacuume line off and plug it up? And the factory specs call for 15 deg at 600 rpm. I have to alter my idle from about 800 yes?

I just recently changed my exhaust and there was no such contraption on the stocker.

I don't know about the stagea, but for the gtt those codes are, 17: abs-tcs control unit circuit. 46: throttle motor sensor signal circuit.

Oh and can you post a pic of your face lift front end???

There are top secret and bomex front ends for sale on Trademe, but i fear they are cheap chinese knockoffs and would crack in five minutes being made of fibre glass, or the fit would be shithouse .

Have no idea about the loom, however the ecu internals are different as the auto unit has the automatic shift logic to control.

I meant the stocker dude. And I'm trying to find one just like the white one as well!!!