Ziller

Agree, sell it and buy a nice GTR

Would also save himself the head f**k of trying to get it right and time wasted doing so. "If" the bug bites to modify it bites hard!.... as many will know.

Was...running 302rwkw with standard injectors and fuel pump.

Im using the standard clamp presure twinplate copper mix, the car is a dream to drive in traffic and has no problems pulling 355kws all day everyday. This has to be the best money I have ever spent on the car.

What we need is an alarm system that once activated has a blow up dumby that turns around and punches ten shades of shit out of the would be thief.......Well we put man on the moon over 30 years ago didn't we.

Good on ya Kymbo, if you dont fight you lose! It's a shame you had to take so many knocks along the way.

Before you spend $ on anything else, Definetly!!! there are a few variable's involved etc...valve seats and seal, head gasket, sparkplug threads etc etc... but I'm tipping a leak down test will give you a pretty good idea were you stand as far as blow by goes. Your engine would have been built by an engine builder and machined buy someone else, did they use a torque plate? is the bore perfectly round? what's the tolerances? all this can vary from the top of the bore right down to the bottom, how much Psi? (Too many questions to ask) There can be no F..ck ups with an RB26, small in cubes, high in power and force feed. The engine has carbon steel metals, alloys, cast and forged materials with different expansion and contraction rates, best to do a leakdown test when the engine is as warm as possible. I had a similar problem with a new built engine, it had an oil restrictor, oil drain back kit, N1 oil pump etc etc... same problem, it was found to have a poor piston ring to bore seal, the bore to piston clearance ranged from .004 to .0075 of an inch in the same cylinders, it also needed the catch can replumbed. The engine was fully rebuilt by Nizpro (a well deserved plug) an re-machined, it still has an oil restrictor, now has a Tomei oil pump, standard cam baffles, no oil drain back kit, this was thrown in the bin, no more problems at all!!! Like I said, I'm not saying this is your problem but it's definitely a possibility, do a leak down test for sure! and have the catch can plumbing checked just in case. thou it looks ok. Cheers.

Not a random act, this was a planned job, just so brazen and risky!, the scums must of really wanted it. My guess is that it's not too far away from were it was stolen, seeing that there was a tow truck involved its probably sitting in some local factory or workshop. (at the moment)

OMG!..... Westfield central managment should have security footage, get in there ASAP, people are lazy so don't take any shit from anyone if they seem's uninterested and put red tape in front of you, this is important, act fast! The Mongrel's need to be caught!!! Do you have any pix of the car?

You seem to be trying your best to solve this issue, you have had many theorys and solutions put forward to you that may or may not help but still no cigar as yet. I can't help thinking that you might not have an oil presure or drainage problem but maybe a high crankcase pressure problem, you have a new built engine but don't take that for granted, if it hasn't got a good piston ring to bore seal or you could be chasing your tail. I'm not saying that this is the case with you and I hope it isn't, is your engine builder helping you with this? I'm sure you paid him lots of money so he should be finishing off what he started in my mind. Anyway good luck and I hope you find the answers in the end.

Thanks Goombeh but I'm all sorted now. Just a follow up for those that helped me out and gain a bit of direction, I went to Import Monster to have a look at a set of R34 rims for the R, but like Adam was tempted by the apple, Arron tempted me with a set of 9.5" bronze RE30 Volks (Love at first sight) and a set of 265 Kumo KU36s at a great price. I also have a set of near new Tein S/S heading my way from a member in SA, after more than 3 years of pleasure and pain and plenty of this $$$ trying to finish and sort the car out, I'm almost there (Yippy Yi FKN Ya) I'm also getting compensation for a past dodgy engine build so things are looking good. (Persistance pays) Thanks Guys... and Girls

Thank's Champ! just sent him a reply.

Hey mate, give me a call on 0425763096 I'll take them,, Nick.

Ahh I see, JDM Performance, has Racing logic coilovers that are 52mm Monotube that have a 6061 aluminum body and fully adjustable, pillow ball top mounts and come with an 18 month unlimited kilometer warranty for $1,700. ???? For around $2,000 I'm still thinking the Tein supper street for my driving style and needs. Anything will be a great improvement on what I have at the moment, the springs are so hard they are almost rock solid. I've never had anything second hand on the car before but there seem's to be some good bargins out there, missed out on Tangomatts nismos coilovers for just over 1K Damn it!! I dont like to scrimp, but I have other priorities in life that I need to focus on, I,m still upset over the RE55's spliting and still need new tyres. My mates and girlfriend have really got stuck into me for wanting to get rid of the Volks so maybe some Kumo KU 36's or 31's 18x275x35 could be on the cards, 265's if they will fit. After 4 years of trying and with many set backs and $$$$, I'm very close to finishing the car off and don't want to make a bad decisions, thats why I posted this thread. Thanks for the help guys!

I'm just getting into the suspention side of things as i've been busy with other areas of the car, the Tein monoflex type coilover's seems to be the best type of shock, but at around 3k I was thinking of something more like the superstreet as suggested by R TUNE. I lost interest in pushing the car hard along time ago apart from the rare odd squirt so I wont be pushing anything to its limits ,I'm not too fussed on brand names just something with height adjustment and not rock hard like my car is now. Thanks Guys...and Girls!

Not a bad idea!.... but I want the option of adjustable height if I can, the front spoiler or lower lip seems to be larger than most (was told a Nismo) it scrapes on driveways and speed humps, also may help with a RWC if I get pinged by the cop's. I dont need anything over the top, just good bang for buck's Thanks for your help.

Thanks, I'll get in touch with Aaron and see what he can do for me. The RE55's have done around 15,000kms and were purchased 7/01/2008 (still heaps of tread, still looks RWC, no shit!), I just coast along in the car. The inside radius of all 4 tyres are spliting like retreads, very strange!!! I'll post pix of treads and splits when I find my camera. Cheers

I have to replace my RE55s, just street driven no trackwork or hard driving, they've done around 15,000kms in over 3 years and still looking good. It's really weird how they have gone in recent times with splits around the inside radius on all 4 tyres.

Its a bit late to put good oil in now, had the same problem, need new syncro's

Yer 245s with R34s wheels would be good, the car runs 355kws so it needs a bit of meat on the road. The RE55s, was just bad advice given to me by some clown at a time when I didnt know any better, there over 3 years old now and still with heaps of tread, the car was never going to see a race track or driven hard so it was just a waste.

Hi Guys, just need a little help. I've been reading threads on suspention and tyres and It's starting to give me a bit of a headache. Currently I have Volk Challange wheels and RE55 tyres 18x285x30 that are starting to split on the sides? so they have to go. I have standard vspec suspention that appears to have heavier springs (they are as hard as a rock) not a comfortable ride and the tyres track on the road due to there width. I'm looking at changing everything for a more comfortable ride and a more standard look. car used for daily driving only: (Maybe blow off the odd Porsche or Ferrari Lol) Was thinking suitable bilsteins and a 235 tyre and wheel combo, maybe standard r33 or r34 rims if I can come across some. I'm looking for a place to take it to in the west or south who are known to be good with GTR's to do the wheels, tyres and suspention in one hit, drive in drive out. Any recommendations, Cheers.

Had a similar problem, I had a brand new built engine with all the goodies, tomei pump, restrictor, oil drain back, catch can, etc etc.... Tried many things to amend, long story cut short, piston to bore clearance was out and not within range due to poor machining when being bored and honed, this caused a build up of crank case pressure. The fix, new workshop rebuilt the engine properly (Nizpro) removed the oil drain back system and tossed it in the bin, none of this other mumbo jumbo. Problem gone!!!

To all the exhaust buffs. Just picked the car up now with a full 3.5" exhaust, its gone from 338kws to 355kws and spools a lot earlier. Happy Happy

My old workshop said it will make no difference, the new one said it will. will post results soon as I get them, Cheers