Ziller

I have a built forged engine running standard cams with Tomei cam gears, standard head, air box and running -5s at around 20 psi on a safe tune. The exhaust is 3.5" with a matrix 3.5" cat, this reduces down to a 3" exhaust about 600mm past the cat which includes two 3" elbows and a 3"muffler. The cars at the workshop now and they are changing it to a full 3.5" system with a dyno run for minor adjustments to suit, its currently pulling 338Kws, this is a genuine back to back dyno run with an exhaust upgrade so it will be interesting to see what and if there is any differance in the power levels running the same psi and safe tune, results next week, Cheers.

He wasn't driving like a dickhead, just cruzin, he buzzed around me for a while. yer midnight purple sounds about right. Say no more.

Was it black with twin pipes sticking out the back? it was side by side with me on the beach rd Elwood an hour earlier, I think he wanted a run, after a while he did a u turn and headed back.

I removed my type B's an went back to standard cams, just using cam gears and -5s, the car seems to drive a little nicer and pulls better down low. No need to rev the car as hard anymore so easier on the engine.

No point living life thinking what if.. But definitley worth considering, my comments are based on the guy having made only 12 post and having asked the question more than once if the engine will last, having an already built engine (God knows who built it or what its been through), I suspect he is new to the wonderfull world of GTR's so just some words of caution. "You see some guys putting a lot through stock engines and others breaking new ones" This is very true. (without rubbishing any engine builders) Based on the limited information 2 bar would be risky without knowing more, maybe the straw that breaks the camels back, I've had 4 engines in my car (pisses me right off) and used to run 25psi with tomei cams, motec, 2871-10 turbos and many other goodies, these days I run 20psi, smaller turbos, std cams shafts and have never looked back. (my choice only) 22-24psi sounds more realistic, 600whp, still bloody fast.

Not trying to put you off but there's not much info in your threads, 2 bar, 650 to 700hp is a lot of strain and mumbo! how many kms on the engine, who built it, how much work has it done? The tune is one thing but the engine clearances, tolerances and ware is another thing on an already built engine. The last time I had my engine inspected it involved pulling the engine out and inspecting a big end bearing, sadly they were all f#$&ed after 2000kms. Hopefully all goes well, but asking if your engine will hold is like asking how longs a piece of stringl. Good luck!

Will your engine hold? dont bet on it, and for how long, many have failed. Good luck, I hope it works out.

I was running 245rwkw with my old std motor, mods were power fc with std afm, adjustable cam gears and a 3" exhaust with a guttered cat, was using 14 psi of boost, also still using the std air box. Although now with a new forged engine, not to much has changed except turbos and 20 psi of boost, now running 340rwkw, still using the std airbox. Your power levels seem a little bit low to me, it would be interesting to hear the results and opinions when you take it to a new tune/workshop. Good Luck!

Dispite what is known as factory problems with the RB26, example...the need for an oil restrictor, sump too small, oil pump, none metal head gasket etc.. in the early days I had a standard factory built engine with some bolt on mods, with the none standad Nizmo dash showing 84,000ks on it, like a lot of GTR's, Im sure it would have been more, this was an unopened engine over 12 years old! I had thrashed this engine without mercy with many trips to Calder sailing down the 400m strip at 11.8 with shity tyres and poor 60ft times time and time again in the old girl, ok, thinking it was invinserble, on a hot summers day on a dyno at drag tag and caining it around a simulated track for a bit of fun when it was running hot, it developed a very slight head gasket leak, remember a 12 year old factory engine. (silly boy) Ah ha, now my chance for the big engine build using many big named parts, after the high cost I became a much more moderate driver and user of the car with no drag racing or any real thrashing and a new found respect for the car, this did not save me, (a long story) 1st engine 7,000kms blown, 2nd 2,000 kms, bearings gone, 3rd engine now with a brand new crankshaft and Nizmo graded bearings and a new engine builder, it is running fine. IMO this will be one of the keys to its longevity. (BUT) I wonder what would have happened if I had just got a brand new factory built N1 crate motor for $10,000 at the time from japan right from the start and just put on a set of turbos and keeped it real, everything brand new from top to bottom then just part out the old engine and maybe save tens of thousands of dollars and lots head aches. I guess I'll never know will I.

Hi jack, I could go on and on, I've only just scratched the surface here, anyway I'm very happy with the rebuild and the way it was screwed together and the way it runs, it has new forged pistons, reco head, a brand new crank (for real this time) with Nizmo graded bearings, all bearing measurements were taken with the head torqued to the block which is N1 and grouted, the sump also machined to help keep the bearings tolerences in order, the big ends has GTiR Nizmo 19mm bearings with H beams, from memory the GTR one's are around 16mm, with the Tomei oil pump, balanced and blue printed and other goodies and with me being a moderate driver. Im hopeing it has a long life, so far so good!!!!.

Hi Jack, I think your talking about Nick R.... yer? he also had his silver GTR33 there like mine which was waiting to get sorted, it was parked next to mine for yonks, I got his number off another unhappy customer named Peter who spent big bucks on his, also a silver GTR33, Peter told me his experience there put him off performance cars for life and soon sold the car. Nick said he had been waiting 2.5 years for his car to get sorted, I must ring him. The guy who brought Peters car, Lou, has had it there for months now with the engine out and in bits, Im to scared to ask!

40k?.... dont forget the gearbox!!!, and remember the waste of time 2871-10 turbos, also there was the waste of time try oil drain back set up, etc etc.... all up try over 58k!!! so much for being told "Do it once, do it right" This dose not include the cost of the 2871-10,s, the cost of the Nizpro rebuild including the 2860-5,s.... after all that, this car will not be sold, I could not bare watching someone drive it down the road, its not the cars fault, it is now part of me. Was not a member at the time (2007) and did not know about SAU and had very little knowledge of the GTR at the time, so who's to know, yes it would have been very handy. I still have a 3 year issue with the PPG gearbox built by Hi-Torque, it keeps jumping out of 1st when in traffic, its in there now for repair, running a Std box for now. After picking up the car from High-Talk after full tune, being so down on power I knew I had problems (having been told "The Fuel blends have changed these days and that he had to retune around 30 customers cars to suit, we'll try again during the summer" Yer right!) with the new engine with the second hand crankshaft, 2 days later I headed for Chasers, with Chasers 4 wheel dyno it pulled 325.8kw's, 6 days later with Nizpro's 2 wheel dyno it pulled 337kw's @ 24.67 psi. With the Nizpro rebuild it pulled 348kw's @ 20 psi with less rpm, remember this is without the Motec M800, now power fc with air flow meters, without the Tomei cam shafts now standard cam shafts and without the 2871-10,s now 2860-5,s with around 5 psi less boost!! and also without that stupid tripple plate clutch, now a coppermix. Work that out? With all the money spent including the 3.5" exhaust, Duane from Hi-Torque said the remaining 3" muffler would not hold the car back at all. I have since purchaced a very well hand made custom s/s 3.5" muffler with twin 3" exits from Nizpo, when I get around to installing it, Simon from Nizpro said I should be looking at around 360kw's with a minor retune, still at 20 psi . When and if the gearbox is repaired properly, maybe, just maybe, I will get the car I was promised 3 years ago? (QUOTE) What a wicked web we weave when we practice to deceive!

Hi-Torque hey!!! I wonder if this will help? I spent over $40.000 there. On his expert advice, Brand new N1 block, CP pistons, Pon cams, Motec, Tripple plate clutch (which shattered the previous trouble free Std gearbox on low tune the first time out so a further $12,000 on a PPG box was spent) Trust intercooler, Tomei manifolds and dumps, ACL race bearings and much more. The car drove like a shit heap compared to how it once was and constantly stalled at the lights! The reco turbos were identified as 2860-8s?? and tagged as 2860 (later identified as 2871-7s) with many trips back to amend problems. The promised 360 to 370kws @ all 4 wheels came in at 330kws on BP98 at 25 psi. AHH the answer! throw on a set of 2860-10s (really 2871-10s) while waiting for the good news and the promised new power levels I was told my 3 month old engine had siezed on the dyno! He told me he had the said failed brand new N1 oil pump analyzed from an inderpended report which found a poor casting, (on request he would not produce this report) now a Tomei oil pump. After a 14 months wait with many many many excusses, my new expertly bulit engine with the said brand new crankshaft and std size bearings and new turbo combo produced a wopping 332kws. (waste of time and money) The car was down on power! and with to many stories to get my head around. After 2,000kms and a visit to Paul from Chasers, Ben from Racepace and Simon from Nizpro, I knew the engine had to come out, Simon stripped the engine, it was a mess, (also veiwed by Ben from Racepace and later, Duane) not the brand new crankshaft I was told but a second hand one with 10 thou under size bearings which were shot and in some cases down to the white metal, scrape marks on the pistons and a long list of other problems. (Duane did supply a new crankshaft and some other minnor parts for the full Engine rebuild). Enough said for one night. I still have all the old parts, Crank, Pistons, Bearings etc. The car now runs Like a new car and a dream to drive with the adviced changes, Pon cams gone, Std cams back in. Motec gone, Power FC back in. Tripple plate gone, replaced with a Nismo coppermix. 2871-10s gone, replaced with 2860-5s. As for Duane, a great salesman but............., Lesson well and truly learned.

I had a triple plate exedy, same story I'm an everyday driver, just installed a Nismo coppermix. Do your self a favor and get one of these clutches. Fantastic!!!

Maybe a Motec for this one

Motec sold guys.

Hi Andrew, Pre February 1993 have a push type, post February 1993 have a pull type clutch. I was caught out, I have a 95 vspec GTR that had previously had a twin plate that was R32 spec (push type) so some funny business happened in the past! Yes its always good to make sure. Push type has the slave cylinder pushing out towards the rear of the car while the pull type has the slave cylinder pushing towards the front of the car. Cheers.

Any comments. Machining your crank, Measuring up your bearings to your exact chosen spec's, after then, bolting on your sump, then bolting on the head with let's say with a multi layered steel shimmed head gasket. Any changers to your bearing measurement's after this process?

I have an Exedy Triple plate in my car, they are a pain in the butt in traffic if your an every day driver, you may stall your car a lot unless you can master its uses, they have a lot of grip and in a panic situation this could mean a car up you Ass , unless your running well over 400rwkw it would be a waste of time, a simple after market organic clutch would be my choice, IMO. I've got a Nismo Copper mix in my hot little hands and can't wait to install it.

A Triple sound good but I think over kill for you. Bragging rights only and you may not like it in traffic conditions.

Different tooth profiles, OS use the old agricultural type design, PPG uses a more advanced design due its new and more advanced machinery.

Exedy Hyper metal series spring center, a good clutch with no slip at all, was just too tuff for the old girl but no probs for the ppg.

With over 86,000 thousand threads on the good oils and many different opinions there's not much talk on build tolerances or how hard they push their cars, most of todays oils are very advanced. I was running over 350kws at all 4s with a standard gearbox with 10 year old oil trouble free, I added a triple plate clutch (higher impact) with fresh Motul oil, flicked the Motec switch down to 270kws and with the 1st caining Bang! gearbox no more, Redline will tell you they have the best oils in the world along with all other brands, Test... add MT-90 to finger then hit with hammer, outch! some tune shops race GTRs with standard gearboxes with twin plate organic clutches. You really need to spend the Dollars on the full package to have any real luck or modify your driving style.

Its more the sudden impact that will destroy your gearbox, take it easy when changing gears! what clutch have you got? a Nismo coppermix will help if you have the bucks. It cost me over 10g for a ppg so think about it.

Are you going for a proper full rebuild?, bearings, hubs, baulk rings, seals etc, by the time you add labor oil, gaskets and so on Big $$$$$ get a quote an see how much. Maybe just go for a good second hand one?