defari

white 33gtr in ashgrove - probably going to the gym grey 34 milton maccas about an hour ago

faaaaaacken hell, you did well to walk away from that with no injuries..

i got 3inch straight through, its f**ken loud.

just keep adjusting the boost controller - 1 click in the direction to increase boost. go take it for a drive, watch your boost gauge - it should go higher that 3.5 - just keep turning it up 1 click at a time until your boost gauge is reading close to 7. If at any stage you feel it hesitate/pop/feel underpowered - don't turn the boost up any more.. (you shouldn't have any problems hitting 7psi unless you have problems else where)

today - grey 33 gtr st pauls tce with nismo rims.. looks good

on top of the boost controller does it have a little screw? it should say which was to turn will increase / decrease boost. Dont wind your boost all the way down. Does your stock boost gauge still work? Just keep it at 7psi - i honestly cant feel much of a difference between 7psi and 10psi.. Might be a good idea to invest in a boost gauge, imo best to spend a little bit to get something thats fairly accurate / looks decent.

aphex twin

ahhh, my apologies, i thought they were only effective up until 350rwkw..

i think what he is getting at is why get a new intercooler if there are no plans for other mods i.e waste of money.. standard cooler will work fine. in your case with all those extra mods your doing, an intercooler would be necessary.

IIRC active lsd was an option - u should have a lsd light on your dash?

turning down the boost wont really make it "kick in" later / earlier - it just means you'll hit your desired boost. Is it cheaper to run if using lower boost? In your case probably if its backfiring / running rich, your more than likely using more than required. example - i tried 0-100km/h on 12psi - as soon as i hit 10-12psi the car pops/hesitates cant remember what i ran 0-100 was around the 6 second mark.. i turned the boost down to 9psi ran just as quick.. Not to sure what kind of manual boost controller you have, mine is a turbosmart one, from memory the rule of thumb is 1 rotation anticlockwise / clockwise is either -1psi or +1psi respectively. It should say on the top of your boost controller. You catch my drift?

get some smooth sand paper (not sure what grit rating is best) but something thats not very coarse to help clean up the edges your cutting.

^ what does the seller mean by no wood ducks? also wtf? mod plate for a bigger turbo / intercooler? i didnt know you needed that?

lol

google.com.au - 4th result... T3 turbo flange (usually found on nissan rb20det / rb25det)

ebay, wreckers, for sale section, borrow from a friend, sponsors sites in the for sale section... failing that, wish on a shooting star..

about the slight miss - i think its just a common problem.. mine idles perfectly with an ever so slight miss every couple of mins (revs drop about 30-40rpm for a split second)

looks good clutch

also I found by having a slight bit of slack in the cable my car isn't as jerky when you tap the gas the slightest bit.

26dett its next to the throttle body iirc

no probs mate, turn the boost down a little..

rotors may need machining - usually about $50 - $60 each. or pads may need to be worn in a bit although if they are only 1000km old they should be ok by now.

too much boost for stock ecu

i have a blitz one (from previous owner/s) cbf taking it out or replacing it.. if i change before 4000rpm it makes a bit of noise - anything over that, its like a gun shot followed by a flutter.. imo much of a muchness, i would never buy a bov unless it was necessary for more power..

sorry to hear mate, will keep an eye out... sucks to hear yet another one stolen..