defari

GTIR - AWD turbo hatchback pulsar sr20det (from memory they run individual throttle bodies) - nice cars, always wanted one but at the time they were over priced... $16000 for a mid 90's import with 200,000k's on it..

could be a few problems.. the spluttering / popping noise when your getting on the gas sounds like either 1. coilpacks are f**ked. 2. running to much boost for the factory ecu (R&R) 3. plugs are f**ked.. About the stalling issues / idling issues - my 33 will idle at around 1300rpm on a cold start, operating temp it idles around 650rpm - sounds like the DIY guide to cleaning your aac valve would be worth a shot.. If you dont know what boost your running - i'd turn the boost down to be on the safe side - usually by turning it down you should find your popping/spluttering will go away.

no idea -

James st Fortitude valley Brisbane - that street makes my coilovers / kidneys cry...

black ftw / with red calipers.. white just gets way too dirty so quickly.

clutch - u can have my brand new autometer narrow band a/f gauge for like 40 bucks if you want (its been in a box in my garage for about 4 years now)

legend! will check mine tomorrow fingers crossed its just the welds . dohc - mate got no idea what that problem would be - mine doesnt "pop" out of gears like you have mentioned.

apologies to the OP (dont mean to hyjack the thread but i feel compelled to answer his question as we were all newbs at one stage) before 2000rpm the turbo is still running although its not making positive boost pressure. in regards to intercoolers - generally yes - although u do find some people (i have no idea why) putting intercoolers onto non turbo / non supercharged cars. if you have any other questions, just PM me - saves cluttering this thread up as its a bit off topic.

turbo will boost from 2000-2500 rpm - hopefully hit full boost around 4000rpm - 4500rpm up to 6500rpm (roughly) (assuming stock ecu / stock turbo etc etc)

quick question - I've always been a bit suspicious about my car. When mine was done through fast it came up invalid paint code - lanky said it may be a problem with the VIN - everything else matches up. Could it be a possibility that the car is dodgy? have had no problems registering it (was previously in nsw) police have pulled me over mutiple times so im leaning towards it just could be a problem with FAST? surely if the car was dodgy they would've picked up on this when it was registered by the previous owner in qld and by myself when I bought the car. + also police would've been onto it right?

clutch in - smash the gas - clutch out.. no lag on a more serious note - need more info - what mods? standard ecu? stock turbo? coilpacks are eff'd? spark plugs are rooted.. the list goes on..

white 34 near rna showgrounds / bowen hills around 12:30ish.. cant remember plates..

hope this helps everyone / anyone (if i've made a mistake someone correct me) series II rb25det the pipe below is where i spliced a small section out (no more than 5mm) i put the T piece in, connected the spliced pipe to either end of the T piece, attached piping from the last hole on the T piece which on my boost gauge (2nd pic) will connect to the new boost gauge sensor. pic of the boost gauge (autogauge from just jap for those playing at home) pic below is a mock setup of the boost gauge - im guessing most gauges these days come with the small circular filter (top right in the pic below) I cut the tube going from the black boost sensor to the T piece about half way - attached the filter (helps to smooth out the movement of the needle on the boost gauge / stops dirt/crap flowing back into the boost sensor) lastly, pic of the location of the hole i used to run the tubing / wiring in under the drivers side kick panel then up through the steering wheel / under the dash etc ready to be wired up to the cig lighter / ignition etc.

no worries - give me an hour and ill post a pic of my setup (at work at the moment)

yep thats what i was referring to. there should be a screw at the back next to accelerator and 2-3 clips next to the driver side door - after you've undone the screw, a little bit of force and the panel should just pop out (be careful though). you should see a fair few wires etc, gently push them to one side and look upwards towards the right - there should be a hole there. Obviously best to do it in the day light. If you cant see it, pop your bonnet - look at left strut tower - behind that there should be a black box (factory boost sensor) below that is where the hole should be (from memory) ill take a pic if you want.

QLD - pretty much anywhere inner city (milton road especially) Brisbane roads are terrible full stop.

actually looks pretty good, might do the same when i get a chance - sick of all the black

black 34 waterworks road last night around 9pm cant remember plates but had a massive neon blue tacho on the dash - eastcoast/westcoast customer sticker on the rear window..

nah its a standard clutch.. car drives fine - its just a pain the arse to push the clutch constantly to the floor

if it helps, there is a hole on the bottom right drivers side footwell (you'll have to pull back the kick panel) from this hole it feeds perfectly to were the factory boost sensor is (the little black box on the left side of engine behind the strut tower)

ive got the same problem... even with the clutch fully pressed in (up to the firewall) i can feel it slightly engaging.. bled the slave/master but it didnt help.. havent had time to do anything more to it. let me know if you find the problem

basically regulates the boost pressure

i got 265 35 18's on the rear of my gtst - running 38psi (very minimal wear over the last 12 months)

what power is that mx5 making? cheers mate, dont know if you've seen it lately but the front bar is destroyed but the rest is fairly straight. Apart from that its just got a few soft mods.. full exhaust, tein adjustables all round, greddy / blitz breathing mods.