biddy

Cool. Have put it all back together and all seems fine.

Can anyone tell me if I can re-use my hks metal inlet manifold gasket and throttle body gaskets. They've only been On for about 8 weeks. Had to remove everything again for another leaking heater hose. Got a full kit this time.

definately worth doing yourself. I did my 32 gtr on the ground. used 1 trolley jack to remove the box and 2 to put back in. Hardest part of the job was removing and re-installing top starter motor bolt. Dont forget to replace the thrust bearing and rear main seal while the box is out.

You should be ok. They will stick out 2mm less than my 18 x 10 +12's. I've just lowered mine a bit more last night And the only thing they started to hit was the inner liner on the drivers side. I'm gonna lift back up 10 mm all round.

got the wheels today and all good. Specs and pics are on the wheels, tyre offsets sticky. Forgot to say. Went for the 18 x 10 +12.

got the wheels today and all good. Specs and pics are on the wheels, tyre offsets sticky.

Just copy and fill in the table; Skyline model = R32 Gtr Wheel diameter = 18" Wheel width =10" Wheel offset =+12 Tyre size =235 40 18 Modifications to fit = none so far. Car has bc coilovers fitted. Front can go lower which ill do when i get more time. reckon the back may rub with passengers.

Has anyone got 18x10 + 12 wheels on their r32 gtr with 235 40 18 tyres on Them. If so what mods were needed to fit if any. Can't decide whether to go 10" or 9.5" +12. Need to know for tomorrow if possible. Thanks.

Yeah I've taken it out already. Thinking I might just go for the 150 oC and see how I go.

I've just removed my inlet manifold on my 32 gtr to fix a coolant hose. So I thought i would re-paint it black. I re-painted it last night in heat proof Enamel paint. But after reading the back of the can it says leave it for 24 hrs and then heat it to 200oC. I'm not putting it back on as I'm waiting for some new gaskets. So I thought I might heat it up In my oven or BBQ. Is 200oC too hot and will it warp or mis-shape the manifold?

The hose on the break servo line on some cars have a one way valve on them although I think this would be to big. Also when I worked at Vauxhall in the uk, which is General motors there was a recall for the washers on some of the models (vectra/Astra). The fix was a one way valve on the small hose to stop the water from running back into the washer bottle. Maybe try Holden.

It may not be a resistor pack. But my sr20det definitely had this plug thing that controlled the injectors. The silver part was just a shield that covered the plugs and I think there was 2 of them. I accidentally put tension on the wires with one of the stainless pipes I installed for the fmic which was enough to break the contact on the plug.

This happened to me a few years ago on my pulsar gtir after I installed a fmic. I accidentally disconnected something but cant remember what its called. it might be a resistor pack or something for the injectors.. Anyway its the silver box thing on the passenger side, under the bonnet just near the top of the suspension turret. its got a plug on it with a few wires coming out of it.

I have the full monty carbonic clutch in my gtr. Had no issues so far. Don't know about the organic clutch.

I went with the HKS GT-SS's. There running at 1.2 bar. Still got the standard injectors on which is the limiting factor. But I'm happy with it as it is at the moment.

I've owned my 32 gtr for 12 months now. I love driving it as a daily. I do about 80-100 k's per day. First thing I did when I bought it was replace the ceramic turbo's and get a nistune. Tuned to 280kw. It can be quite expensive as a daily when you have to change the oil every 5000k's. Plus when things do go wrong they're usually expensive. Things that have gone wrong over the last 12 months are:-coolant pipe burst, Exhaust pipe corroded beyond repair and the clutch went. All replaced and fitted by myself. Also insurance isn't cheap either. I'm not sure about fuel economy but I had a Holden 5 ltr v8 ute before the gtr and it was about the same but the gtr is 10 times more fun to drive.

I've just discovered that I can connect my blitz sbc id 3 boost controller to some of the standard sensors on the car purely for monitoring purposes and was wondering which sensors would be best to monitor. i.e connect to the oxygen sensor/s, or detonation sensor/s maybe throttle position sensor, or maybe the cas to monitor timing. Maybe someone else has used this function and I would like to know what they connected to and what results they have got, how accurate etc. Also I think I will need some information to set the values as to what voltages should be read. So maybe for the tps it might be 0.1v at idle, 4v at 50% throttle and 6 v at 100%. So if anyone has this type of info that would great too.

Hey just a thought. My mum had a Golf Gti a few years back which had the same symptoms as yours and straight away I said Head gasket. My dad decided to get an independent gti specialist (ex vw mech) to come and have a look. As soon as he looked at it he said "no its not the head gasket, same symptoms and thats what vw will tell you but its actually the oil cooler". I'm pretty sure the oil cooler was similar to the standard oil cooler on the gtr. i.e oil to water heat exchanger that the oil filter mounts on. It was a pretty easy fix and I think most of the expense was for his time to clean all the oil out of the cooling system. Maybe a long shot but worth a thought.

Just installed my sprung carbonic 6 puk clutch off jim berry for my r32 gtr pull type. Only driven about 20 k's so far but the initial thoughts are very good. The pedal is very light. Lighter than stock even. I'm glad I went for the carbonic instead of the organic as it is very driveable for daily use as I use mine. If you are trying to decide between the organic and carbonic and your worried about the carbonic being hard to live with for daily use. All's I can say is it is no harder to use than a standard clutch but you can definitely feel how much harder it bites. The clutch is rated at 4000lb clamping pressure. I paid just over $1000 and that included a flywheel machine. I managed to remove and install the clutch myself in my garage, so anybody thinking of doing it, it can be done on your own if you've got a bit of mechanical knowledge and a fair bit of patience. I've attached some pictures of the clutch.

In the process of getting a Jim Berry clutch so i'm replacing the front gearbox seal as recommended by Jim. I've bought the front cover gasket from nissan because jim doesn't supply one with his kit. When I took the old one off it is a metal one. Where as the one from nissan looks like a paper type. Would it be better to put the metal one back on or just replace it with the new nissan one? I know you can't re-use paper gaskets but not sure on the metal ones. Cheers

Sourced one from a local bearing manufacturer who stock NOK seals same as genuine. Gave him the number off the old seal. Looks like i'll be getting all seals from him in future. More expensive than non genuine but about half the price of nissan.

I don't buy the whole "oh you gotta use genuine this and that" Its not as though Nissan even make the seals. When I changed the turbo's and all the gaskets and seals on the inlet side on my car I used genuine parts for everything and it cost me an arm an a leg in gaskets and seals. Then when I was stuck and got a seal off my tuner he said so long as its got all the same dimensions whats the difference. I can understand on things like oil filters and such where there just isn't any real cost saving to not buying genuine or if genuine is the only option. Its a bit like buying hks over garrett, your paying for the brand. I know i'll probably get people going "oh well good luck I hope it doesn't leak". But i'm prepared to take the risk. Seeing as I do all my own work anyway. Also replaced front crank seal with non genuine and never had any problems.

Can anyone confirm that the rear main seal on an r32 gtr is the same as an rb 30 non turbo engine. My local parts shop doesn't list a seal for the gtr so we matched one up and it turned out to be listed for an rb30. The seal from nissan was 4 times the price so don't really want to get it from there. Thanks

Well the box is out and the clutch is off. Friction plate is worn down to the rivets. Dam that starter motor bolt was an absolute b*!#h. Not a bad job apart from that though.

Ok cheers looks like I need to start thinking about which clutch to get then.