biddy

Yeah I didn't mean I don't know what a slipping clutch feels like. I've driven cars with slipping clutches before and I've replaced a couple too. It definately feels like a slipping clutch. I just thought it was a bit weird that the front torque gauge was showing that power was being sent to the fronts as the clutch slipped as if traction was being lost on the rears.

Over the past week the clutch has started to slip in my 32 gtr, or so I thought. Tonight on the way home it was still slipping as soon as I hit full boost in any gear above second, but what I noticed was that as soon as it started to slip the torque split gauge moved up at the same time. Is this normal when a clutch on a gtr slips or could it be something to do with the 4wd system? I really cant afford to spend on a new clutch only to find that it is'nt that. Any help much appreciated.

Stick a one way valve in the hose going to the cabin so you only get vacuum leak and not boost leak. And yes the BOV would still probably work to some degree but it would give the desired flutter noise.

I'm pretty sure this could be done quite easily without the use of any electronics. Just put a t-piece in the vacuum line. Then run a vacuum line coming from the spare outlet on the t-piece into the cabin of the car and on the end of that hose put a normal bleed valve on it. Block the other end of the bleed valve up leaving the third bleeder outlet open. Then you can manually open and close the bleed valve to give you the desired affect. I had to do something similar back in the uk on a small 4 cylinder turbocharged car in order to get the car to idle properly with an atmo bov.

Yeah, I've put a switch in to pull the compressor in too. I've also earthed the pin on the temp switch for fan but I still havn't heard it kick in yet. The fan works if I bridge the connections and earth it so it can now only be a faulty temp switch.

Ok just spotted this thread and thought I would give some info for people interested. Now I'm not really the type of person to go all out on modifying my car and spending every last cent I earn on my car but I do like to enjoy my car all the same as I drive it every day as a daily driver. I've had my car since september last year and as soon as I bought it my main priority was to make the car reliable as a daily driver. After reading a few different things on this forumn it was clear that the one thing that I needed to change were the original turbo's due to the horror stories of them exploding. Luckily for me 2 weeks after buying the car another member on here was selling a pair of HKS GTSS's so I promptly bought them. I also new that to get the car to run properly I would have to do something about the tune of the engine so opted for a Nistune. Again this option was chosen purely because it did everything I needed it to do without any un-necessary frills. I took the car to have the nistune fitted and set up. Nothing else on the car has been changed other than the normal exhaust and filter by previous owner. Internals, injectors, fuel pump etc all standard. The car made 376 Hp at 1.2 bar and was restricted by running out of fuel. Tuner said could of made it to 400 Hp if the fuel pump wasn't lazy. Now I know this is probably no where near the power alot of other guys out there are making but I thought I would post it up so that anyone who is trying to make a decision on what turbo's to go for can at least see what can be expected on an other wise standard car with these turbo's. Obviously with alot of other work with the heads/cams etc more would be possible. I've attached a copy of my dyno sheet also. Sorry for the long post but hopefully this will help. Paul. scan0036.pdf

Ok, I got a couple of wiring diagrams off another member and i've checked continuity between all connections between climate control unit, ecu and relay. I've got continuity between them all. The only fault I could find was the voltage at the ecu which should be battery voltage when the a/c is off and 0 volts when it is on. So it looks like its the ecu. I've also got the same problem with the thermo fan. If I bridge the teperature switch and then earth the connection which goes back to the ecu the fan works. Looks like the ecu isn't switching the relays to earth as it should be. Does anyone know if these settings could of been changed when I had a nistune fitted? Cheers Paul.

Yeah, I've even tried to disconnect the pressure switch and bridge that but that does nothing also. I've tested the pressure switch for continuity which seems ok so i'm assuming there is enough gas in there.

Ok after having no A/C in my car since I bought It I decided to try and sought it out. I discovered that the compressor was disconnected so re-connected to no avail. I eventually got it to work by manually pressing the relay together and so managed to check that the compressor was working. Went for a drive and its as cold as ice so I know the gas is ok. Once I remove the cable tie off the relay the compressor dis-engages. Whilst the relay is over ridden everything seems to work ok, I can change from hot to cold, move direction but just can't get the compressor to work automatically. I've been through the diagnostic mode with no faults. I've checked all the connections behind the relay and I've got power to both the coil and switch. I'm assuming that means its the negative thats switched not the positive and I think thats were the fault is. Has anyone had this problem? The only thing I can think it is is the a/c controls in the dash but it seems strange how its doing all the other things its supposed to except switch the compressor on.

Ok so i'm going to answer my own questions. Guess I should have done a bit more investigating first. After reading a few more posts I went and checked the pressure switch which was ok. Followed back to relay. Bridged the connections and hey presto A/C now works. Incidentally the relay next to it that controls the thermo fan which is the same is also knackered. Hence why I've never heard it come on even on 42 degree days. So looks like I'll be getting 2 new relays tomorrow.

Since buying my car about 4 months ago the a/c has never worked. with the recent heat wave I thought i'de better do something about it. Put it into dianostic mode and came up with 25 and 27. 25 as expected. the sensor relating to 27 kept fluctuating from -30 to 0 and +30. I disconnected and bridged the connections which gave me a constant 46 degrees. You hear the a/c switch to full mode but the compressor does'nt kick in. After further investigation I discovered that the 2 electrical connections on the compressor were disconnected to I reconnected them thinking this was the problem but it made no difference. I've checked all fuses which appear ok, so I disconnected the plugs again to check the voltages. The plug with the 2 wires read 0.2 volts each to earth. The single cable plug read 0.045 volts obviously no where near enough to make a compressor work. Does this pressure switch cut power to the compressor? If so can you bypass it so I can at least see if the compressor works. Also does this sound like a no gas situation. Sorry for the long post but really need to do as much of the investigation myself before taking to be re-gassed.

I've just had to replace all inlet gaskets including throttle body and plenum after nik at allstar garage discovered I had a vacuum leak when they were installing a nistune. He warned me not to alter anything on the linkages or anything that looks like it can be adjusted as they can be a nightmare to re-set. Maybe this is were people are having problems if they adjust something without realizing it. I thoroughly cleaned mine with carby cleaner when they were off and i've had no problems. In fact the idle is the best its ever been.

Yeah, I think I was measuring the voltages across the wrong wires. Think they are for the sender unit and petrol light. Going to check again sometime this week.

Can somebody please clarify a few things relating specifically to the r32 gtr. I've done several searches relating to fuel pumps but with all the different models being mentioned in the one thread it gets a bit confusing. How many fuel pumps does an r32 gtr have as standard? I've just been checking the voltages for my fuel pump and even when I disconnect the fuel pump plug the car still runs. I can hear another pump coming from under the car and when I re-plug the intank one in the revs increase and I hear the intank pump start humming away. Incidentally the voltage readings I got were 13.8v across black to red and 8.4v black to blue. I think the blue wire is the one that controls the coil on the relay. The previous owner told me that the car had a Bosch pump. The strange thing is I've just had my car dyno'd and made 376hp at just under 1.2 bar but the tuner said he was restricted to that level because he ran out of fuel and recommended replacingf fuel pump or doing a re-wire. Any help clarifying this much appreciated.

Hi Everyone I have a question. I've done alot of searching but have'nt found the answer i'm looking for. I have 2 blitz bov on my 32 gtr. I've just installed HKS GT-SS's and a Nistune ecu and had it all setup. The bov's were already on the car and with the standard turbo's i had no problems although i did have a leak in my inlet manifold gasket. I'm now having the problem of the car dropping the revs and sometimes cutting out. Now i know why this is doing this, because its messing with the afm's but what I want to know is has anyone with these bov tried to recirc one of them with it set to leak slightly on idle just like the standard bov, and have the other one set much stiffer so it only releases after high boost. In theory i think this would work but interseted if anyone has used this setup. Also does anyone know where I can get the recirc adaptor from for this bov? Thanks Paul.

Hey Denis. Good to hear I'm not the only one having this crisis. I'm 34 and I bought my first r32 gtr 2 weeks ago. I too have a v8 ute that i'm now selling. Also trying to keep my car pretty standard although once you start tinkering about with these cars its hard to stop. Quite easy to spend money on these cars especially being a member on this forum. I managed to buy a new set of Turbo's yesterday off another member so my car is currently sat in my garage with the turbo's removed waiting for new gaskets so I can install the new turbo's. Any way hope you have fun with your new car. Regards Paul.

Just purchased a set of HKS GT-SS turbo's with HKS dump pipes While in the process of swapping them over I've noticed that the hole for the O2 sensor on the HKS dumps is much larger than standard. Can you buy an adaptor or do I have to try and get the one out of the standard dumps. As they don't seem to want to move?

Hey I'm looking at putting new filters on my 32 gtr. It already has pod filters on but they have seen better days. What are the best ones to put on?

oh right ill have a look. So does anyone know what the boxes in the boot are?

ok cheers. Still need to find standard ecu on car just in case it isn't standard. Do you know if its one of them boxes in boot near the speakers?

Hey I want to get a nistune. Can someone recommend somewhere in perth to purchase one and get it fitted and set up? Also where is the standard ecu on an r32 gtr? Is it one of the silver boxes in the boot near the speakers?

ok cheers. What about the boost controller. Should I get one in conjunction with the ecu or should I not need this until I want to start running more boost?

Yeah the restrictor is definately still there.

Will running a pfc with my current mods give me any more power or will it just make the engine run safer on the standard turbo's allowing me more time before I need to change them.

Yeah I've seen this. If thats the case then the restrictor is still there.