zei20l

you never know. try the old attesa relay trick on it and let us know. if the car is 0:100 normally, if you remove the attesa smarts, it may never leave that mode!

i think anything that is top-feed will work. assuming they are larger than the factory size. im not sure that size is quoted in the manual, but its at home if youd like me to check? try something from a RB26, but to be honest i have no idea what sort of flow capacity they are rated at. maybe even VQ35DE upgraded injectors will be enough

so now im 100% glad i got the emanage ultimate. im surprised the haltech does support the S14 but it doesnt support the S15. they have virtually the same motor! even the NA varieties were VTC equipped

as stated above AND in another thread. Snow mode has use of all 5 gears.

so technically the sprint booster just pushes the pedal more than you do, thus giving you the effect the car is going faster are you sure ignition advance is taken from the throttle input? i would have thought it was taken from the MAF input which would go up from the throttle opening due to the operator pushing it? hang on, youre saying the haltech isnt 100% compatible? hmm interesting. i think there is an M35 owner having problems with his haltech also!

yeah look into it mate! have a search around the stagea forum for people that have done this mod. i dont think youll find its laggier, if you do, it wont be by much and no you can happily run it with the factory ECU. unless you want to start upping the boost and doing some mods, then a copgyback or a remap is probably worthwhile!

ok so if you get WOT when you push the pedal to the floor, tell me how the sprint booster 'works' then?? i also mention that those numbers were examples, just to prove my point. if im wrong, im happy to admit im wrong. no problems. but clearly you have tested this already and someone can maybe confirm this. not that i think youre wrong, of course. i think they are a stepper motor but there might be a POT up there to measure 0-5v from to confirm the location of the throttle to the ECU. i didnt bring my wiring diagram with me, assuming that the M35 2.5L and 3.0L NA motors are the same as a V35.

in NSW by law they have to supply 3 months warranty with the car. im not sure if thats only if its registered. but check it out before you go buying a new turbo! its so weird this problem just 'happened', it was perfect to drive!!

but they are only 5 speed! i might have rear measurements of the block in the service manual. ill check it out tonight/tomorrow

one way to test this is to stick a camera in the intake to look at the TB. or put a vacuum gauge after the throttle body and watch it instead.......... youd be surprised how many cars are limited with this 'feature'. coming to mind is my fiat 500, my M35 stagea, my old accord euro, my mums liberty.........

actually the throttle pedal isnt connected to the throttle body itself. does no one realise this?? the ecu interprets the signal from the pedal input. it then decides what is the best opening as per its programming. lets have a few examples: Lets assume the car is a manual; If the engine is doing 2000rpm, and youre in X gear, you can put your foot to the floor and the ECU reads 100%, yet due to its programming, it will only open the throttle 30%. no matter how lightly or heavily you push that pedal, it will only open 30%. (im guessing the opening percentages) again, lets assume a manual, 4000rpm in X gear, you put your foot to the floor, ECU reads 100% throttle input, but its programmed to not WOT till 5000rpm, so untill you hit 5000rpm. the throttle will only open as far as its programmed to do so. there are many reasons for this, 1, saving your driveline; 2, its programmed to give maximum torque across the entire rev range; 3, to save fuel. im sure there are other reasons, but i cant be assed putting them here. so, all these devices do is to trick the ECU into thinking you pushed the pedal further than you actually physically have. but rememeber what i said above? the ECU may not 'allow' the throttle body to open to WOT just because you told it to. and then you have - as mark perfectly described it!! - a placebo effect. the only way to fix this problem is with a reflash, or an aftermarket ECU.

i believe you can use the video/audio inputs from the tv tuner in the boot. its pretty much useless. from the diagram there is an RGB and L/R audio. but id need to confirm that with someone who actually speaks japanese

yes, but only if you count zero as progress if i go manual, im going RWD........ might lose 100+kg of weight in the process!!! and be able to go dual exhausts

only aftermarket ECUs can directly control the TB and remove the TB opening limit, this device has already been described as just pushing the throttle more than your foot. ie, it does nothing. you can spend as little or as much as you want and youll never overcome the ECU throttle limit unless you remap it, or get an aftermarket ECU. there is no other way. has anyone thought about changing to a cable activated throttle?? i bet its possible

how much you looking for change over for exhaust??

sorry it doesnt take off in 2nd gear. its constant 50:50 torque split. and yes ive noticed that it appears to be pushing forward while in one of the synchro modes. but as andy said, its pressurising the atessa system. snow mode limits boost, thats why youre seeing less fuel usage. but please note that every atessa mode on an M35 has full range of the gearbox!!

hahah thats exactly what happens, except she has a mercedes pick her up and take her to work (public bus) yup they are useless, they only affect throttle input from the pedal, not the actual throttle opening in the throttle body

far out thats good, i can get 7.5L from the fiat on a bad run tho

i was about to suggest that. nothing stopping you from using a macro lens for anything

nah his car is stock, wil when i drove it it sounded fine to me. i didnt push it THAT hard, but it was enough to get the normal sounds out of it. my car has a weird exhaust leak under the driver. its possible yours has a similar problem. also, check the oil and change it if it looks dirty. you dont have THAT many ks on the car so all should be well

it was, i was sore all over after that session!

M35 has a boost solenoid, as per almost every other turbo nissan made. its perfect for cutting boost incase of detonation. anyway, its not in series, its probably setup the same way as the C34. it bleeds off air to the wastegate actuator but its preset and youre right, it cant 'see' the boost its at, its a factory programmed setting. his vacuum pipes looked fine when i had my head up the ass end of his motor a few weeks back

thanks but its a 250RS which isnt suitable for M35 stageas, as per the auction, its good for V35s!

maybe due to the additonal weight, it overboosts but the good thing is there is some room to move to increase boost a little.......

FYI for all M35 owners: ATTESA E-TS system is normally 0:100, but can split up to 50:50. SYNC mode is constant 20:80, but can also do 50:50. SNOW mode appears to be 50:50, but hard to tell, but it does NOT start in 2nd gear. Im guessing that there is a boost limit. ATF 'D' is reccomended, 1.8L is required to fill the system. Diffs require 1.4L each, and factory weight is 80W-90. Engine requires 4.8L to the H mark, 4.0L to the L mark. factory weight is 5W-30. 10,000km/1 year is the required change period. Factory boost is 12-12.8psi.