nickperth

here you go

below

Well i had a look today, the front wheels are hitting inner upper control arm ive never had this sort of issue before and the wheels im currently using are the ones that have had been on the car for the last 2 years. However i did recently have them off and was running stock wheels and then i changed 2 pair of tyres which were originally on the front and have put them on the back and the ones that were on the rear on the front, they tyre width are 235/45 or 40 r17s and ive had similar tyres like that on the front. Would this possibly effect it meaning that the wheels that were on the rear dont belong on the front and the ones currently on the rear should be at the front

Hey hows it i have a r33 and ive got a issue, when i fully lock the wheel, the tyre scrapes and will not move. I have D2 racing coil overs on it, i am wondering what could this be caused by as i have raised the front but havent done the back, if i raise the back would this get rid of my issues, or is this more of a serious issue then just that. Could anyone tell me what they did to resolve this or know how to resolve this, as this kind of annoying and i dont want to damage my tyres. Yours Truly, Nick

How do you get a timing light or how do you do it, as that would be greatly appreciated if you could explain.

Can someone explain to me how do you install a crank angle sensor on a r33, what i mean by do you have to line the teeth up or something or is there some sort of factory markings i need to be sure that it lines up properly. It would be greatly appreciated if someone can help me out here Yours Truly, Nick

Hey hows it going, i got a r33 series 2 skyline, this weekend i changed the water pump and i put everything back together that included the belts and they were put tightly together not to tight but tight enough for them to be secure and have a bit of flex in them. When i put everything back together and tried jump starting the car i could hear the pump priming however when i turned the key it would cut out like as if the battery wasnt supplying enough power and it was a dead battery, and i had a reading on the power fc that i was only getting 11v of power. This would though generally conclude that the battery is f**ked however this battery came from my other car which i use every day and this battery is fully operational considering the other car cranks up first shot. Now on this car i got no immobliser or alarm system. Now im sort of stuck and out of ideas on what should i do, should i possibly check the fuses or the relays or maybe even check the connections around the starter motor or the area i worked in making sure everything is secure. How ever i will do this tomorrow, but it would be greatly appreciated if some of you guys could shoot me some ideas were should i look else were as i would like to narrow down the search for this. Just extra information describing my problem when i do turn the key i only get single click and all the dash lights seem to die as if there aint no battery power. Hopefully i get some good help from you guys. Yours Truly, Nick BTW yes i have searched other threads for similar problems none could help

Alright thanks guy, ill try get one from work if not ill try and make one and worst case sceniro ill buy one. Thanks a lot guys

Hey hows it going can someone explain to me how to remove the rb25 crank pulley i can get the main 24mm bolt out but getting it off im having some trouble, the reason i need to take it off as i need to take off the timing belt so in can replace the water pump this weekend. It would be great appreciated if someone could tell me how to do it. Yours Truly, NickPerth

you could get about $900 for gearbox if the motor is flogged but include everything thats needed to run it you probs could get 1k, then for hubs, rotors and calipers you could get a good $700 thats if its 5 stud also interior about $400-$500, left side door about $100-$200, spoiler and boot about $200, if bonnet is still good thats another $200, wheels you could sell those as well if there stockies you can get $200 for them, if its got a exhaust like a 3" cat back thats another $250, or stock exhaust about $50, if you got a sound system you can sell that, also you could sell engine loom or include it with engine sale. Also you can sell the tailshaft for about $100, then you can sell rear tail lights that will get you $100, r33 interior floor mats about $50, then you can take the diff out thats another $200, fuel pump another $50 Theres a few parts you can sell as the skyline does come with a lot of parts. If you have the time and dont mind storing it and give it a month or 2 worth of storage you could have all those parts gone and get back about 4k maybe a bit more. Might seem high but trust me ive stripped a whole r33 down to the bare metal and sold off every part and got most of the cash back.

Okay car aint running rough any more i replaced the exhaust manifold head studs as i saw a bit of carbon build up so ive replaced them however i took the car out for a short drive today and its back firing real bad and its struggling to boost up, however it broke down after 5 minuets again same problem it wont crank over, would you guys were i could check next.

I ran it for a good 10minuets, ill reset the fuel pump tomorrow and ill also check the leak i think it could be i need some new studs, as i recently replaced the exhaust gasket. Though the rough idle im sort of worried about it, its quite rough its i got to admit, its a strong vibration, like it would sound awesome in a muscle car not so cool in an import

Okay i got the car started i changed the ecu over, however the car now is running quite rich it blows black smoke, i however am having a very rough idle issue it sounds like a really lumpy 69 camero but it sounds like its struggling to stay on and its reving at about 800 rpm, i also get this ticking sound from the turbo and exhaust manifold area. Would you possibly know what the cause of this could be, im guessing it could be a fuel relay. However i did check the injectors and the only one didnt seem to change in idle was first injector not sure which one it is but its the first one when looking from the front. However all the others changed when i took the plug out except for that one.

Also when i took the fuel filter off there was no fuel delivery but i could hear the fuel pump priming

I just want to add i did change the fuel filter just to make sure it wasnt blocked but i got admit when i cranked it over you can here a slight bit of sputtering coming from the exhaust.

When it stalled it happened when i engaged the clutch so i thought it would it start up when i disengage it, but it didnt. So i tried cranking it and it kept turning over but it didnt sound like it was spluttering so i was thinking it would be spluttering if it was fuel, if it wasn't most likely something like a ignition or spark problem. The spark plugs it currently has a brand new Bosch Iridium ones which are gapped at 1.0mm they been working perfectly fine so far i did however check the and they look perfectly fine for something thats been in the car for the past 300ks. I am however getting a set of coil packs for a series 2 this week and possibly going to change them over to see if its down to the coil packs. I will try today the spark plug problem and give it a show if its down to the spark

Ive done the fuel check on the pump and i can hear it prime and ive taken the fuel hose off and gave it a crank and fuel started coming it out. I took of the crank angle sensor and turned the wheel and could hear the injectors going so id say its not that as well. How would i go by checking the spark and coil packs to know if the problem is a spark related issue?

Alright cheers ill have a look at it tomorrow morning

Ive just checked the CAS and its working all good as i hear the injectors when i turn the wheel on it, so its no the CAS.

Hey hows it going i got a R33 Series 2 which can not start, it cranks over but it wont start, it aint sputtering so it wouldnt be a fuel issue, but im thinking it could be down to the spark. The car originally had broken down while driving so i had to get it towed back home. The things i have currently done to the car is a ecu diagnostics check and it came up with 55 so everything is fine according to the ecu. I also chectked the spark plugs and did notice a very small amount of oil on the spark plug i only removed the first 3 spark plugs. I did check the cables of the distrubator and everything seems fine, i However recently hit a pot hole and had probably caused to dislodge a gasket or something and its been losing a bit of oil latetly which has caused the oil level to go down and has caused a very noticeable amount of oil on the left side of the engine just under the turbo, so im not sure if this has anything to do with it. I also have also started to experience a bit of oil in the inlet system more then i used to, infect i used to not experience any oil. The main thing i want to know is there any tips were you can guide me what i should do next to see if i can resolve the problem, or a possible sympton that usually causes problems like mine as i have had done a search on the forums and couldn't find anything. Yours Truly, Nick

All 3 were on different headers, but the 1st one was the top one in the top left corner, though i got the worst job now as one of them is stuck in the thread and i got to remove it

Hey hows it going, i took my turbo off yesterday and i chucked everything over it and it was all fine and then i preceded to take off my manifold and i noticed i 3 snapped turbo manifold studs, would you think that broken manifold turbo studs could be the problem, as i thinking of getting some new studs and repairing them and then going to put it back together and see if its fixed the solution.

Alright thanks guys, well i am going to go and take the turbo off and manifold and check all the gaskets tomorrow and see what i come and get back with, also if its the bearings on the turbo would you recommend me getting a turbo rebuild kit from like eBay since Ive seen them for about $50 or so. Only reason i am saying this is, cause i want to get a high mount setup at the end of the year or early next year but i don't have the cash right now and i want to use something in-term for now just to hold off for another 3 months, before i upgrade.

Hey hows it going, ive got a problem with my R33, recently ive experienced a problem i went last week to power cruise and while dropping the clutch and sitting on the limiter for about 5 seconds and letting off ive developed this screach from the turbo, its a high pitched screach not the nice type of one, it happens only when boost comes on after 3.5k, i orginally thought it was the diff or gearbox but you can easily drive the car light footedly to the limiter without the noise. I did remove my piping yesterday and havent noticed any shaft play on the turbo however i did notice oil in the intake piping towards the plenum and the intake pipe to the pod filter, i did however check the manifold and dump were secure to the turbo and they were and i couldnt see any signs of leaks. I am not sure if the presence of oil could mean a bearing is blown or something, though i am guessing the sound is from the turbo as when i rev the engine i can hear it coming from the turbo. So could you give me a few tips what could be the issue, because im guessing its the turbo and it needs a rebuild if not, could you tell me what possibly could cause that sound. The car is tuned btw and its been running on 12psi, however when i turned the boost to about 6 psi it still made the screaching sound but not as loud. Please give me some advice guys NickPerth

Okay i took it out for a drive the noise is coming from the back so im guessing the diff, would you recommend me taking out the diff and having a look and if its a bearing is there any chance i can fix it at home?