steve12

Stitch, See page 3 of this thread. Replace all 3 caps as one maybe open circuit. My car had C35 leaking as in the picture above.

My car has 15mm of free play on cold start. After 5min of driving the free play is around 5mm?? Not sure why this is so but I think it is to do with the master cylinder O-rings or some sort of clearance issue with aging or something else. Anyway, if there was only 5mm of free play when cold then you will get partial clutch disengagement when car is running for a while or warms up. Anywho, you're mechanic should have checked this and should have also noticed the clutch was ok when removed. Funny how a bit of knowledge can save a lot of time and money.

You should first increase freeplay on clutch pedal by 10mm and see what happens on hot days. If same problem you may need the flywheel machined.

Clicking noise usually means your engine is seized. Battery is overloaded casing solinoid switch to cut out. Put can in neutral and get a socket to fit on the crank shaft pulley and see if you can turn it. Even a good engine is a bit hard because of the compession. Anyway do not jump to any conclusions as it can also be the gear box. If you can not turn the engine over by hand, get some one to push down on the clutch peddle and try again. Could also be a case were the timing belt has gone loose and jumped positioning. Hence the rattle noise (piston hitting valve). Did you notice any thing strange before this happened. Such as any loss of power or funy noises?

Do a search. It is related to boss you are using. ie steering position sensor is not working correctly. Hence the error.

You should be able to get the power steering to work as the HICAS controls pressure via a solenoid valve on the rack and pinion. The leaking cap many have killed your HICAS module. I never did look at the circuitry properly. You can try my one if you live in sydney or get one form the wreckers. As for diagnostics, yes I am 100% sure it won't work on series 1 R33, unless there is a different way of activating it.

Aslo, does your HICAS sometimes work ok. Or is the light always one with heavy steering?

The series one R33 do not have HICAS diagnostics. It is firmware related.

Check the HICAS module doesn't have a leaking capacitor in it as in the thread in the general maintenance section. It fixed the problem for me.

Strange?? should have fixed the problem. Did you make sure the replacement capacitor was installed the correct way around? Also check if there is a HICAS fuse.

Remove the thermostat and see if it still heats up at idle. Best to check this on a warm day. This will tell you if it is restriction by the thermostat itself. I think some open up more than others. You may still have gunk in the cylinder head and this with the same amount of restriction from the thermostat may be stopping the flow at idle.

How long did the car run for after you washed the engine? From what I remember you need to reset the ECU to show up all error codes. When the car is running for a bit these error codes get cleared one by one. You will keep getting the temp sensor error code because the car hasn't warmed up so that it can be cleared. The ECU codes are only a rough idea on what is wrong. The ECU maybe outputing another code after the temp sensor one. Also check you didn't damage any cables when you bypassed the cooling pipes and check not coolant reached the ECU in the kick panel area. One more question, how long was the car running ok for before it wouldn't start anymore?

Never looked. I might check them when I do next service.

I still got the factory spark plugs. 156ks and still running fine

Swab and alcohol is fine. 105C is the temperature rating. You can get the voltage and capacitance specs from the capacitors themselves. Best to get a bit higher voltage rating. Must have same capacitance. I think its only one of the capacitors that is leaking but it is hard to tell which one. Like you said replace all 3.

Have you cleaned the PCB and check if any tracks or through holes have been eaten away. If not just replace the capacitors with 105C rated ones. Your car should be fine then. A lot of R33 owners are going to see the same problem as the green transistor must be getting very hot combined with the hot location of the module itself is causing the capacitor to fail. If you are not confident in repairing the module give it to a tech you know.

Referring to the R33 electric system, The HICAS module sits under the parcel tray in the boot. This area is at a high temperature when in the sun. Remove the HICAS module and open it. There are 2 boards back to back. Be careful as the cable that connects these to boards is fragile. Look for leaking capacitors on the boards. The one i found was near the green power transistor on the heat sink. The liquid that leaks for the capacitors is very corrosive and will cause all R33 symptoms discussed in this thread. If you do find a leaking capacitor, please reply and I will let you know what to do next.

And I forgot to add.. learn to fix your car yourself.

Never go to a mechanic that isn't recommended by a group of people (like on this forum) for such repairs. Why he thought it would be the ECU is beyond me. Going to a spares place and replacing with same ECU would have ruled that out and you may have been able to return the ECU if it didn't fix the problem.

It might be conrod bearings only. If so you shouldn't need a full rebuild. You can sometimes diagnose these bearing buy checking piston play in height, it depends on how bad the damage is however.

Yep it gets the signal from this gauge.

Tried the torque wrench and lowering the car trick to loosen the filler plug? Need to put timber under handle of torque wrench.

You Shouldn't use anything less than 10w

I didn't connect power to the soleniod as suggested, I just removed the soleniod valve altogether (connected the 2 hose that got to it together). Would this cause the issue??

Hi All, My car is all stock besides the bypass of the boost control solenoid which limits the boost to 5 PSI under 4500rpm. Anyway I think I am getting detonation at full throttle when engine reaches 3000rpm and the boost gauge gets close to 700mmHG. The car loses complete power for a split second. It seems to only happen as engine is warming up. Would this be detonation or something else? Only started happening after doing this mod.