steve12

Thanks for the help guys!! It ended up being a broken hose to the MAP sensor. I didn't know it was in the engine bay. A bit hard to see near the brake booster.

The studs are broken because you have a non-original exhaust which is stressing them out.

Anyone know what maybe the cause of this fault? Has never worked since car first imported. Car is 93 S1 R33.

Records from when first imported, or at least proof of servicing. Original meaning no aftermarket suspension or exhaust. Both can damage car. Maybe bring someone with you who knows a bit about cars so you don't bother inspecting crap ones. Also, the report defects the brakes but I can't see why.

Look for a car that is more original as it will have less issues. This one has one too many issues. Shop around as there are many R33s on the road. Try to get one that has service books. My 93 R33 has more KMs and is in lot better condtion.

I was getting a leak from the boot seals, not the black rubber but the off white sealant on the body work near hydrolic lifting arms that hold the boot up. Was only getting right hand side leaking but suppose the other side can be the same. The sealant goes hard and cracks. Difficult to see and detect as the leak can change with body temp.

Get same noise on cold winter days when accelerating. Goes away after 5mins. Must be gear box but could also be turbo. Don't think so as i could still get the sound at low RPM. Only just hearing this rattle this year (150k). Can't hear it know.

Why do you need a manual for? Not hard to work the stuff out yourself.

Get the regulator replaced. The battery may also be damaged but you may get away without changing it. Best to not drive car until problem fixed. Alternator can output up to 30V and do a lot of damage. The low impedance of the battery will hold this down a bit. Not sure what PFC is and how accurate it is. Suggest using multimeter check at the battery. Battery charges at 14v and sits at around 13v when not.

Has anyone had problem with boost gauge in the instrument cluster? Mine has never worked since I brought car from importer. Anyone know how this gauge works? Aslo, if you do install this a conrtoller how do you set it to 10psi if the gauge only goes to 7?

Did mine at 130,000km, belt was very loose and brittle by the looks/feel of it. You must change tensioner and idler as they are designed to go at around the same time. I should have done service at 100,000km. I suppose I was just lucky.

There are a few threads on this site that talks about the HICAS light coming up after steering wheel/BOSS has been replaced. I think they also say that it only comes up after long straight driving as is done on the highways. The problem in your car should be easily sorted as the symptom is easily replicated. Buy!

It maybe your steering wheel that is causing the problem. Not sure what type of angle sensor used but since the control module is not showing an error code the problem may only be minor. Has this light come up ever since you had the steering wheel replaced?

Do you have an after market steering wheel? Have you tried the diagnostics? Can you replicate the problem every time you are on the highway?

The HICAS will reduce the power assit (via solenoid on R&P) as speed increases. This improves steering accuracy at high speeds. Not sure if it helps in parking? Why don't people just fix the faults?

Hi all, I also had problems with my HICAS with the light coming on after start up but would go away when you turn ignition off then on again once car warmed up. This occurred around 6 months ago. In the last 2 month the HICAS light would suddenly come on during driving and the steering would go heavy. Any who, it ended up being the HICAS control module. I replaced a leaking capacitor and cleaned up all the corrosive liquid on the PCB. Car is a 93 R33 gts-t. Been a week with no issues as of yet. Hopefully I will never see the light come on agin. Also, the diagnostics doesn't work on this first release R33. Must be firmware related. Hope this helps.. Buy!!

Hi all, I also had problems with my HICAS with the light coming on after start up but would go away when you turn ignition off then on again once car warmed up. This occurred around 6 months ago. In the last 2 month the HICAS light would suddenly come on during driving and the steering would go heavy. Any who, it ended up being the HICAS control module. I replaced a leaking capacitor and cleaned up all the corrosive liquid on the PCB. Car is a 93 R33 gts-t. Hope this helps..