Raven33

the back wheels fit an R33 perfectly the front wheels need a 5mm spacer (illegal) and maybe some guard work. I drove it for about 2 hours in total with the front wheels on - there's this corner in front of my drive-way which causes something to scrub somewhere around the front passenger wheel - I'm not sure if it's the tyre scrubbing on the guard or if my front bar was hitting the road, my driver side guard has been flared a tiny bit from a small ding just below the headlight and the scrubbing never happened on that side, so it could be something as easy as that. You're welcome to come have a look, I'd be happy to put them on the car and show you exactly what scrubbing I'm talking about.

BUMP! someone make an offer

Bump

Bump Any offers at all - I'd consider trading for stock rims with good rubber or something to that effect I'd even consider trading for fmic setup for r33 + cash my way, or cat back exhaust + cash my way (assuming sub $500 value) don't be shy, I'll consider any offer

Found the thread I got these tyres from - where they were listed as: JDM Deep Dish 18 inch Mags (Rear: 18x9.5) If my memory serves correctly the fronts aren't as wide as the rears - I wanna say 8.5, could have been 8 (tyre monkey told me amidst a bit of a ramble)

Mags in the for sale section http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/380605-cheap-18-mags-fresh-tyres/

Hi people I got some 18'' mags with pretty close to new tyres on them. less than 200km on the tyres. 235/40/R18 Zetum tyres all around Selling because I was told these mags came off an R33 - failed to mention I would need a 5mm spacer and to flare the front guards to make them fit. so now I just want to recover mostly the cost of the tyres so I can get some new tread on my stock rims. I don't know much about wheels, so I cannot offer any offset insight - there are some numbers inside the mags I could get a photo of if anyone thinks they might be the offset figures. I'm pretty sure they'll need a balancing - can see where some of the little weights have come off already. I'd like to get $800 for the mags/tyres - open to reasonable offers. Enquiries via PM or call/sms Raven on 0404-482-847

*sigh* With spacers on I have the clearance from the brakes, the wheel free spins just fine.... but even after removing the plastics from inside the wheel arch it's still scrubbing on something when ever I go over a reasonable sized bump - or take a corner over a slight bump - as I can't see where it's scrubbing I think it might be best to just sell the mags and go back to the stock rims till I can get my hands on a set that are perfect for R33s. So disappointing, these were the first set of mags I've ever bought for a car - after having to replace 2 wheel studs (nice one bob jane) and with some of the balancing weights already falling off, it makes it hard to want to get mags again. I'll try to put the mags into the 'for sale' section tonight, $600 worth of tyres and $200 for the mags, keeping in mind - they'll need to be balanced again, what would be a good price? I'm hoping $800 is fair, but knowing my luck that won't be the case

I had intended to take photo's as I did the work, and write it up into a guide - but alas I was too focused to remember to grab the camera (yeh focused, that's what I was) So I had a broken wheel stud on the front drivers side wheel - took the wheel off, removed the 2 18mm bolts that hold the calliper on - removed the rotor and begun working on removing the broken stud - I'd been told the basics behind removing the stud by a tyre monkey at Bob Jane T-Mart, as per his instructions got out the hammer and started banging away - that sucker was in there tight, and not having a decent sized hammer was no doubt making things harder - tried to get the WD40 working for me, but it didn't seem to be helping much... Then the craziest thing happened .... I had an idea!! What I wanted was to make the stud smaller than it was, and of course the best way to do that is to cool it down. As the freezer wasn't an option, I started racking my brain for ways to cool the stud, but not the hub (i guess that's what it's called) - as I don't live in a science lab, there was no dry ice at hand. But I did have the next best thing - a can of butane lighter fluid. The liquid/gas will turn almost anything white with condensation on contact, it will also make most surfaces so cold, it will hiss and crackle when you touch it with your hand. So I sprayed the damaged wheel stud with the butane, waited for a minute or so, then sprayed it again - just to make sure that it was cold all the way through. After making sure there was no butane smell in the area where I was working, I gave the stud a half assed love tap and to my amazement the damn thing moved, another quick tap a little harder than the first and BAM stud is out - That was easy. So the moral of this story is - if the big hard stud won't come out of the tight hard hole, give it a cold shower of butane I hope this info is helpful to someone out there at some point.... else my puns were for nothing. -Raven

Yeh the front wheels are only just inside the guards as they are, anything more than 5mm would likely need me to have the guards flared or something >.< When I got the grinder out today, as I was just looking to see how I would go about grinding off the raised lettering - I kinda came to that conclusion about getting some decent files and making a day of it. Thanks for all your help man.

Thanks for the advice GTSboy I'll get the grinder out tomorrow and maybe use some loctite on the wheel nuts just to be safe. Any tips for fitting the spacer? should I get longer wheel studs or anything like that?

Hi everyone I managed to score some cheap 18'' mags for my skyline, got new tyres for em, then the trouble started.... The back wheels went on fine, perfect fit and look great - the front wheels however, scrub on the callipers - they actually put the mags on and tried to move the car before they realised the front wheels were locked in place. They explained I'd either need 5mm spacers which would be illegal, or I might be able to get away with just grinding off the NISSAN from the callipers, but they weren't willing to do that either. So I got some 5mm universal fit spacers, no lip or anything, while fitting them I couldn't help thinking "this can't be safe, and I bet they throw out the alignment or something to that effect" but continued fitting them (I wanted to see all 4 mags on the car damn it lol) I can see with the 5mm spacers I have about 3mm clearance from the NISSAN on the callipers, maybe I can get away with just grinding that off and removing the spacers, can anyone see a problem with doing this? If I can do it, am I able to grind off any more beyond just the NISSAN if I need to? I can get some pics up if anyone needs to see what I'm talking about. recap: mags don't fit, scrub on calliper 5mm spacer with ~3mm clearance or Is it safer to grind NISSAN off the front callipers?(assuming that's enough) Thanks for reading -Raven

PM sent

Am I missing something ? PARTS USED- -5 x 30 AMP Fuses -1 x Fuseholder to suit Fuses where were the fuses used?

I think he was more talking about 2 birds with 1 stone kinda scenario, get the dump pipe wielded on, turbo back exhaust, hi-flow cat etc etc. but if I can get away with just a hanger on the dump or front pipe without it costing upwards of $500 then that would be what I'm aiming for. There are a few other things that I need to fix before I start seeking bigger power. It's got idle and mid-range problems, it would be nice to be able to rule out the exhaust leak as the cause before I start looking else where. Edit: he might have also been talking about wielding a flange onto the turbo and dump pipe so they could be bolted on - was quite a while ago.

Yeh this isn't one of the dodgy e-bay fake KKR's, it's not as bad as you guys are harping on - it had seen 4 years of use before I had it(some of those years it was running boost too high, massive missing), and it had been with me for about a year before I had to get the core replaced... Because it's KKR and has cost me a total of $360.... you think it's a good idea to replace a turbo that's working perfectly well for what is needed? when the exhaust is failing like shit, has a R34 SMIC, stock ecu, a very stock setup..... soooo many other places where the money would be better spent. Spending $1000+ on a turbo for this would be dead money.... and probably just give me the boost to do some REAL damage to the engine.... Crazy thought, but how about you guys get all the info needed before you start directing someone to blow a fair amount of money on a new turbo. Some of you guys have quiet the rep here, spouting shit like that isn't gonna help anyone. I can picture you guys on the side of the road shouting "booost it up bru - do a fully sick skid" Now back on topic for those who actually had useful suggestions/questions Scotty: there hasn't been any wielding done near the turbo/dump pipe, so I don't think it would be warped, also the leak being in a different place every time doesn't fit with that. boostn0199: That's what the mechanic I took it too in the first place suggested, but he said it would be wise to get the exhaust up grade first - just save a lil bit of trouble. As I said earlier "Sounds like my best option is go to an exhaust place, find out if they know what I'm talking about and go from there." Thanks for the input....

Would you believe it, the tubes don't say what temp they're able to handle - I remember it being on the packaging, but can't remember what temps, only that the ultra copper was higher. I don't think my front pipe has a flexible section, it's got heat shielding around it till just before the cat - so it's hard for me to tell, on my first attempt i couldn't hold the dump pipe to the turbo while trying to get the v-band on, that's why I loosened the nuts on the cat while fitting the v-band. Sounds like my best option is go to an exhaust place, find out if they know what I'm talking about and go from there.

Thanks for the speedy reply bubba. I'm fairly certain that I don't have that hanger, how/where does it attach to the exhaust?

Howdy people, As the title says, I have an R33gts-t with a KKR430 turbo, which for those who don't know - uses a v-band clamp to secure the dump pipe to the turbo - aside from the KKR dump pipe the exhaust is stock. The first time this started happening, I was still getting to know the car, so took it to a dyno/mechanic place, where they quickly explained what was happening and fixed it for no cost (what a champ eh?) He also started telling me about some options to prevent this from ever happening again, but they were very permanent solutions that involved wielding and would be better suited to me after I had the exhaust upgraded. (yet to happen) I've lost count of how many times I've taken the v-band off, cleaned the joining surface of the turbo/dump pipe, I've used 2 different types of silicone on different occasions, all seem to have the same short term fix, by the end of the week it's leaking again, it's not always from the same point, (using a piece of hose) I can hear it leaking from the under-side right now, the time before that it was leaking out the side facing the strut tower. I can't help thinking that it's something I'm doing wrong, I've searched around for tips on fitting v-bands, I've tried loosening the front pipe at the cat while fitting the v-band (best tip so far), tapping the v-band clamp with a rubber mallet as I tighten it, I've used Permatex Ultra Copper (sensor-safe high temp RTV silicone) and Permatex High-Temp RED RTV silicone - I've noticed the ultra copper seems to work a little better. My method: *only ever taken the dump pipe off when the car had been sitting over night* 1. Crawl under the car, loosen (not remove) the nuts that hold the front pipe to the cat 2. Place jack under the front pipe to support the exhaust while undoing the v-band, then undo the v-band. 3. using every ounce of my patience, I clean the joining surfaces using P600 grit sand paper, frequently getting the vacuum in to suck up any excess powered silicone (takes about an hour, any cleaning tips would be awesome) 4. I follow the directions on the silicone tube - apply an even continuous 2-6mm bead of silicone to 1 surface, join the dump pipe to the turbo, then hand tighten (ok maybe a 1/2 turn over hand tight) 5. allow the silicone to set for about an hour or so, then go back in and tighten it up. (this is where I would be tapping with the mallet as I tighten) 6. tighten up the nuts on the cat/remove jack. Sometimes I've tried taking it for a drive right after finishing step 6, other times I've left it over night, doesn't seem to make much of a difference. I think that's any and all relevant details I can offer, if I think of something else I'll post it up. If anyone reading this could tell me if it's something I'm doing wrong, maybe you know of a better silicone option, or maybe something I can do to support the weight of the front/dump pipe. Love tinkering with my car, but this is starting to getting really annoying and time consuming.... not to mention repetitive. Thanks for reading, and sorry for the wall of text

Short version: the PCV valve only vents into the manifold before you reach boost. Long version: the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, is a one-way valve, that will vent the crankcase fumes into the manifold as long as the pressure in the manifold is lower than the pressure in the crankcase. Once you start hitting boost, the pressure in the manifold increases, which changes the direction of the air flow in the S-bend hose, which shuts off the PCV valve, forcing any fumes in the crankcase to vent into the catch can, and return to the intake in front of the turbo.

I'd just like to point something out, I'm sure someone will laugh. *fingers crossed pic works* ~Raven Edit: I should add I got that catch can from autobarn for $50-$70 I got my own hoses for it hence the extra.

Hey mate, From what you've said it sounds to me like you've got air in your cooling system, this can be remedied by bleeding the air out of the system. There is many guides on the forums on how to bleed the air out - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...ato-t67730.html ^ is a guide to remove radiator and flush cooling system including the process of bleeding the air out - you will be able to skip most of it. It is important to get all the air out the system, if you don't it can lead to violent temp spikes. Hope this helps. ~Raven

sweet as, you rock. gonna have to leave it till tomorrow morning, but I'll be there for sure. thanks man!! ~Raven

haha nah I was more cringing at the idea of going to a wreckers and did infact call nissan and will be going to that very store this arvo or maybe tomorrow. edit: getting the exhaust heat shield was the bonus of going to the wreckers

Went to repco today, got another grommet - I asked them about 'S' bend hoses, they have nothing that comes even close to what I need, they did have those springs you can use to bend a straight hose without kinking it - again nothing even close to what I need, leaving nissan or wreckers (cringe). I've put about 50k's on the car since I fitted this lil air filter and haven't noticed anything that would make me think I've been drawing in un-metered air, still worried I'm doing damage without knowing. Zoomzoom, I'm not sure if there is a way to remove the PCV valve and connecting hose without it being illegal. Normally the idea is to vent the oily gases anywhere but into the intake - 'oil catch can' would be the key words, though if setup incorrectly can still lead to damage, defect or do nothing at all. So I think I'll just goto the wreckers and try get another hose - might even be able to score a heat shield for my exhaust manifold. Thanks for your input everyone. ~Raven