Tony Brown

in Queanbeyan getting parts for my Navara and saw a silver R33 GTS-T series 1 coupe in the wreckers on Aurora Ave, R.E. Spares is the name of the place about half way up the hill on the left. The car looked quite complete, but I only saw it from a distance. Just thought it may be of use for anyone looking for those odd parts for their 33

That was my car, I wasnt going overseas just had too many toys (7 motorcycles, etc), sold it too cheap but it had to go to keep the peace, tow guys from Adelaide flew up and drove it back. I believe the now owner is very happy with it.

What you have in your photo appears to be a fairly standard relay setup to overcome the stupid setup Nissan decided to use by running full voltage through the switch which eventually burns out the loom and the switch. Granted your wiring looks messy, but if you can tidy it up it will be way more reliable than the original wiring. Your best bet is to just make sure it is wired correctly and tidy it up. I had a auto elec do that exact job on my R32 GTR and now all my headlights work every time I switch them on.

I would be interested to read a tutorial on that as well. I too have "fat hand syndrome".

Its a nce car, but not worth that kind of money IMO. I think rb26zed was correct with the typo theory. No mods to back up the price either, just maintenance items that are normally worn out by now. Full reco motor...............................................maintenance item if worn out New Battery...................................................maintenance item New altinator..................................................maintenance item new Leads.....................................................maintenance item new clutch master cylinder..............................maintenance item bran new 16x8 XXR rims and tyres full exsust system with extractore...................maintenance item, exhaust that is. new double carbs weber Big sound system............................................Limited value full alarm with central lockin............................no resale value in this item. full dino tune with 110kw.................................maintenance item, tune up. new shock absorbers...................................................maintenance/safety item That leaves the wheels, carbs and stereo, coz if the rest ot these items were not replaced the car would be not only unroadworthy in some cases, but it would be an almost undriveable/very ordinary car mechanically. I only see about $2500 in non essential repairs, not $25000 So, what is a nice example of one of these worth? $5000? More? Less? It i only worth whatever someone is prepared to pay, no more, no less, so if someone was prepared to pay $15000 I would be quite happy coz that would make m R32 GTR worth about $45,000! (it isnt worth that) It would reinforce the theory that a sucker is born every minute.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?Cr=2&R=9826138&keywords=&trecs=10&__sid=129F1737E127&__Ns=pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|0||pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__Qpb=true&__Nne=15&SearchAction=N&seot=1&__N=1216%201247%201252%201282%204294963593%204294963846%204294933160%201622&silo=1011

I guess that doesn't leave you too many options, RWD N/A 4 seats, japanese and fun to drive......just about explored all options here and since we are on a Skyline forum, then it could be an RB25 powered 32 since its potentially the best "bang for your buck" car in N/A for your circumstances.(only if you can beat the price down a fair bit, a non-engineered conversion is not worth that kind of money IMO) Hell I just sold a R34 GT-T auto sedan for $8500 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/352396-r34-gt-t-auto-sedan-in-canberra-8500/page__st__20__p__5664504__fromsearch__1#entry5664504 thats only $1600 more than the car you are looking at, and while I understand that it would not have suited your needs, just comparing value for money makes the 32 look more like $3500 than $6900 I am all out of suggestions. Good Luck, Tony

and the time passed makes a difference because...............???

Thats what I was thinking, or an employee/owner.

I know this is an old post but how come on 24th of September 2009 you asked: "hey guys, just like the j-racing post wanted to know if any1 has delt with DTS in fyshwick, i heard they have a AWD dyno and the machanics are awesome!?"

There's nothing wrong with Group C.......after all I grew up in the seventies! (my wife denies that I ever grew up) Just kidding. (not about growing up in the seventies) Oh BTW, BMW were very competitive in Group C with the 635CSi and 323i John Player Specials. Granted they may not be to your taste but BMW have built some extremely fast cars over the decades. Nothing that dominated their class like an R32 GTR, but always competitive. I would love to see them race against each other, but if they are going to knobble them so that they are all equal, then apart from the advertising there's not much point, is there? The BMW would just become a German V8 Supercab, no faster or slower than its rivals. If however the inclusion of BMW was to force advances in the technology of the cars in the class, now that would be something else entirely. Then they wouldn't just be 2011 cars with 1957 engines in them.

The MR2s are little less forgiving on the limit, a lot better after 92 but the brakes arent great in stock trim. Shame about the 2 seats though. You might have rego dramas w/o engineers report onthe 32 though. 328i? 2j Supra N/A? Maybe too $$

Thought about a NA MR2, Toyotas version of the X19? They are actually a great handling car.

I dont know if this has been asked, but is it engineered?

Dead right, it could be argued that a N/A rb25 in a 33 is more dirveable/fun than a N/Arb20 in a 32 anyway. Even with the extra weight.

Could be as simple as bleeding the clutch though. Is the friction point close to the floor? Does "pumping" the pedal before coming to a stop help?

Hope its not, but could be crankshaft end float, in other words the thrust surface on the main bearings could be worn, if they are worn, when you push the clutch in, the crankshaft is pushed forward and is trying to push the conrods/pistons on an angle towards the front of the engine. As I said, hopefully not but a possibility. It can be checked by measuring any movement at the crankshaft pulley, by using light leverage and a dial indicator, if you can try to push the pulleycrankshaft toward the back of the engine, set up dial gauge to zero on the pulley and then have someone else push in the clutch. If there is any movement, its not good, but if movement is excessive then you have real problems. I have had this problem in another car (not Skyline) in the past and if you can imagine the forces on the crank/conrods/pistons, then you can see why the engine is not happy at low revs when there is not enough power to keep it from stalling, it only happens with the clutch in but it also lessens the amount of travel that the clutch is getting because instead of pushing on the pressure plate, some of the travel is used to push it away before it starts to actually apply pressure. It creates some really crazy wear patterns in the bore if honed. I hope I have explained this clearly, but if not I can show you with some photos if my crappy photography will show it.

It is non turbo, but auto unfortunately, sorry my crystal ball must have fogged up.

Bloody cheap R32 http://www.skylinesa...61#entry5664261

I would own a Lancia Delta Integrale though, or an X19 with a little more HP.

Thats why I apologised first.

FIAT = Fix It Again Tony Sorry but you did suggest Fiat jokes.

Deposit received, now off the market.

chemical castration for that little prick so he cant proliferate, no I take that back........two bricks would be better.

Hahaha, nice one Nathan,