Duchie

Just bought coilovers today and need rims so ill have to ask the financiers first haha

You can test the voltages on your air flow metre just to be sure, a faulty afm will make the car stall with no acceleration and run really rough and wont go past 2500rpm

Well if you're getting idle hunting when not using the accelerator it's your aac valve, theres a tutorial on how to clean it out. Here it is http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/page__hl__diy+aac+cleaning I find on my r33 that because of my faulty cam angle sensor the timing jumps out and the car feels strangely underpowered in some of the rev range but this problem is intermitant. I took my injectors out and had them professionally cleaned, guess it cant hurt to get it done.

Thanks for the speedy upload of the pics man, how is the damaged one? any pics of that and does the fender go all the way down the back or does it finish at the side skirt? Maybe a pic off the car or something

Pics would be nice if possible

Defs going to clark rubber tomorrow. Mate, you're a genious!!!

Depends on what the problem is. If it is a missfire as in the a cylinder is missing a spark and causes the engine to make a noticeable jump then your coilpacks need to be replaced. This is likely as your coilpacks are pretty sensitive (shock, moisture). Also depends what else you got wet and how the engine is behaving so try and give us some more details.

^ Agreed, usually find vibration in driveline casued by uni joint on the tailshaft

Hey mate, just thought i'd add that you may need to get the caster rod realigned. Just get a wheel alignment to check that everything is ok

You can text me on 0430809656 if it's easier

Hey mate, interested, saw these ones on boostcruising swaps for slab of vb, cash my way haha? Kidding, they in good condition? Just got to get approval from my parents

Anyone tried drifting a non-turbo? Might need to be wet.....?

Model - R33 Series 1 GTS Engine - RB25DE Fully Sick Mods - Stainless intake pipe, air filter, super sparks, iridium plugs - More mods with money in the future (bodykit adds heaps of power) Skidpower - 103.6rwkw

Sorry i havent been back on for ages, i havent found any gains but the car's stock as a rock and it hasnt been running 100% for ages but now she's all good. Probs would sound better with a nice exhaust done.

Pfft thats nothing man, i just called up my local nissan dealer and they said it would cost $1075 from Japan. Didnt think that autobarns or repco would have it but ill give that a go

Hey have you got a passenger side door?(gunmetal)

Looking for passenger side door, what colour is the car?

Ive gotten my brother to add the extra pipe and hey presto all is well. I still dont understand what that extra box was for cause it sounds the same. I didn'd have any decent pipe around and had to borrow a piece of my dad's thicker garden hose. At least its got material braiding through it lol!!

Yeh i've heard a few times that you can go 3' catback(with a cat) or 2.5' with a cat. Of course with the 3' you are going to loose that low down power but in the higher revs you will notice the engine open up more. I even noticed the difference in power when i chopped off the stock tips with the butterfly valve, now its much deeper but seems a bit slower low down but faster higher up.

Thanks, there's not much you can do to a non-turbo let alone when you havent got much money to spend.

Thanks for all the quick replies. While i waited i was polishing the pipe so it looks better now Yeh well that saved me from putting a hole in my airbox, forgot bout it needing AFM signal. My brother was originally gonna put a small pipe coming out for the AAC but forgot and i thought i might try something else but ill get him to put one on next week. My main concern was that big box and wasnt sure if it would work by just connecting the AAC valve pipe to the intake pipe but if you guys reckon its just to quieten it then thats fine. Where do most people connect it to on turbo ones cause i havent seen? Im guessing just off the intake pipe too? Thanx for all your help, really appreciate it!!

Ok so ive had the pipe made up and it fits and the car runs when using the throttle but when letting off the aac valve musn't be getting enough air and the car dies(still needs to be polished but will look heaps good). Now the problem is that on the stock intake pipe it has the big box attatched for volume(im guessing the aac valve needs the big reservior of air when letting off the accelerator). So as soon as you let of the throttle the car dies, i tried putting an oil breather on the AAC intake pipe but it still dies so im thinking it needs a woosh of air. Does anyone have any suggestions to overcome the problem of the aac valve not getting enough air; maybe by running a pipe from the aac valve straight to the bottom of the air box, making a separate air tank with an oil breather on it or making a tank and attatching it to the new intake pipe so it would be the same as the original, maybe even just plumb the aac valve pipe straight onto the new intake pipe and it might have enough volume when the throttle is closed. Please any suggestions are welcome except for all the haters saying that it is just a stupid thing to change!

Alright thanks for the suggestions, the best option is to replace the AFM because it is 17 years old so hopefully i can get one new for cheap around here. If i still have problems then i'll do the checking of the loom.

Thanks for the suggestions, shold of mentioned but didnt want to ramble... Ive got new superspark ignition coils in the car, i pulled out the injectors and had them cleaned. I did run the car with the AFM unplugged but didnt go for a drive, the thing is the problem is only when driving the car that it doesnt rev freely, when in nuetral its fine. As for diagnostics check before resoldering the joints it showed error code 12 - AFM and still shows the same thing, i did reset the computor. Ive put different plugs in it recently but i might change em back cause i wasn't too sure about them, im thinking if it's the ignitor then it wouldn't start so i don't think its that but it's just a thought. I might test the fuel pump too, it does make the buzzing noise when turning the key to on which i dont remember it doing but ive got a poor memory and dont have any cars to compare with. I dont want to buy a new AFM and it turns out its not that thats the problem, i dont want to waste too much money

Ok ill try and explain it as clear as possible. First of all the problem is on an RB25DE R33 Series 1. Maybe 1 month ago the problem worsened and the car would cut out and not rev past 2500, would die on idle and sounded like a rotary. So took out the AFM and resoldered the joints inside. Now the car is drivable, when you first start it, without throttle it will die. Starting with throttle works but for the first 30 seconds if there is no throttle the revs drop below 500 and will die unless you accelerate. When driving the car it runs fine until about 3k and if you change gears at this point it's fine but if you put your foot flat to the floor the revs climb extremely slow after about the 3k mark and is hence really slow. My point is that the AFM is stuffed or the wiring because the lower revs are fine because its better lean but once it hits the higher revs when its supposed to richen up it doesn't and therefore is really slow. (Incorrect signal from AFM?) I took the cover off the AFM and with the key switched to on the AFM reading was 0.25v give or take 0.05v. On idle the reading was 1.5volts so only a bit higher than the 1.1v that it should be. When i revved it i didn't see it go past 3volts. Firstly are these readings acceptable or should i just replace the AFM? Secondly i tried checking the voltage of the plug to see if this was a problem by measuring the reading of the negative terminal on the AFM plug and the earth of the car and got 0 volts. The manual did not suggest what is right or wrong for this test. The manual suggested to test the ECCS relay and ECCS loom. Is the ECCS relay behind the computor(behind passenger kick panel)?? Any help is useful, i want to get it fixed by the end of the holidays so i can drive it to school