Mr MRC

I have a 2 door ER33 RB25 auto that I need an aftermarket EMC to run the Map sens. for the air intake since the AFM has died and I cant find a replacement . Performance is not a goal , just has to become a running car for sale since the skyline is being kicked out for 2 new projects. Any and all suggestions appriciated. Post here or PM me. Cheers

It was definately done with the engine running . . I had just driven 15k home . . thats what was so strange. When I got under to find a drain plug I also couldnt find one???!!??

Sorry I havent been on . . I have one found and bought but thankyou very much for all the PMs

Seeing an ER33 only has a 4 wheel stud pattern do the same wheel sizes and off-sets still apply? Are there other veichles that share this stud pattern? . . Or is it just as easy to convert ( to accomadate later brake up-grades ) to the more common 5 stud skyline pattern?

Items: Standard plastic R33 (non - GTR) Series I rear bar to suit 2 door Extra Info: Condition of mounting holes only important point. Rest is repairable. Colour not important. Contact Details: PM me or email at [email protected] (will try reply in 48hrs or less) Price and price conditions: Front bar cost $150 with damage , so shall start from there depending on condition.

Items: Standard plastic R33 (non - GTR) Series I rear bar to suit 2 door Extra Info: Condition of mounting holes only important point. Rest is repairable. Colour not important. Contact Details: PM me or email at [email protected] (will try reply in 48hrs or less) Price and price conditions: Front bar cost $150 with damage , so shall start from there depending on condition.

Thanks for that . . spot on. Thats a gold star for you my friend, thanks again.

Trying to find suppliers , builders , sellers , etc. of the rear boot wing option known as a "Boot lip" , "Drift wing" , "Tail wing" , etc. Call it what you will , they are hard to track down let alone get a price. Hoping some of your wisdom proves to be handy. Thanks

Thanks for the help again . . there was a little more to the problem than what I thought. The keyless entry actuator had been placed too close the the plug that goes into the centeral locking unit near the lock. It had broken all but around 3 strands of wire going to the plug. After being moved I also found 4 other places the wires had been pulled tight and cut by this miss placement as well as the pins in the plug being bent. One problem solved , several more found . . LOL! Thanks again for the help.

I have similiar question to the above one. I have just purchased a ER33 RB25 auto . . . and found to my supprise the oil on the dipstick was almost an inch above the high mark for a hot reading . . not good when I was checking it cold!! Does anyone have any idea of ammounts and which oil to put in?

Cheers for the help . . I have only one question. My actuator is located in the door near the door lock. Would the remedy still be the same or similiar? I had the door card off the drivers door last weekend and since then the passenger door doesnt even open with the keyless entry? Is this a related problem or is perhaps a deeper seeded problem? The door card will be coming off this friday reguardless . . . will let you know how I go.

PS . . . Chris . . . Wilkes was a Clarence legend. R.I.P.

"I can sit there hitting the "unlock" button all I want, it disengages the locks on the door, they they re-engage themselves again." I have this problem the gent above me does but with the passenger door only in a ER33 RB25. I have taken the door cards off both doors . . the short appears to be near the door lock in the drivers door. I checked the plugs on all wiring in the door and now the passenger door doesnt work at all. I cannot even hear the relay kicking under the dash anymore. Not sure if this is a fuse , relay or another problem all together. Any help would be great.