Nightcrawler

^^^ I call bs on that - on an even midly warm day my car is as hot as hades. In fact when it is plus 30 and the car is left out in the sun (which itt is most of the time) you CANNOT touch your hand on the paint. And then you can feel the heat radiating through the roof lining onto your head. Let alone a 40 degree day. But like I said, I still love my black car - you just have to find shade where you can. A big help is the fact that I have remote start - so in warmer weather my a/c is always left on, and I start the car a few minutes before I get in it = nice and cool car inside most of the time

Yep, I agree with all of the above - black cars imho look the sexiest of all colours when clean - BUT they are a pita to keep clean. Literally hours after you wash and polish a black car it looks like it needs it again. But I never learn my lesson and have now had a black R34 and currently a black V35 ..... and of course am eyeing off a black V36 for my possible next car. This photos is from a car show at Kadina last weekend:

I have heard of GT8s being wrecked/parted out because they couldn't fix the gearbox. That is why most people recommend staying the hell away from them at all costs. I can't imagine you can change to a regular auto gearbox, as the ECU controls the box and would get very upset if you changed the wiring/unplugged it.

If they remotely have ANYTHING to do with All Imports, then stay away as far as possible. In fact run and hide. And, if it seems to good to be true, then it normally is. Warning bells went off in my head when you said you couldn't bring one in through Kristian cheaper - obviously there is something seriously wrong there, when the dealers need to make AT LEAST $5k-$10k out of each car.

^^^ agreed. But this one with such incredibly low km should be VERY easy to spot if it has been wound back. Basically, as an 11,000km car every single thing should be basically brand new. Should be pretty easy to spot if things are worn beyond the km.

By SEVS rules, and previous damage (water or otherwise) would make the car inegligible for import/compliance, so you would assume this is a non-issue. Still, get the car checked out by a reputable source (they don't have RAA in Syd btw). If they are happy to supply dereg and auction papers, and you are happy wiht the price, then go for it.

As per above - using a reputable importer like Iron Chef or Prestige Motorsport is the only good way to go. If you HAVE to buy from a car yard (due to financing the car or if you are in a desperate hurry), then you MUST get the yard to supply the Japanese deregistration papers and auction documents to verify km. ALMOST EVERY car yard winds back odos and does dodgy shit. It is just a part of import life in Australia.

Yes, of course they are wound back - there is a guy in Sydney that can do it in 5 minutes for $100. Some good reading on the site and FB page below http://www.tunedinternational.com/forum/index.php?/topic/192-edward-lees/ https://www.facebook.com/Japanese.Odometercheck

Google is your friend. You will find products for the G35 out of Amernica cheaper than you can buy locally, even when you factor in shipping. https://www.google.com.au/search?q=buy+g35+ztube&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-GB:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb&gfe_rd=cr&ei=tN6NU9b6MsaN8QfywYCIBA

To be honest I actually like the look of those caliper covers, but for the love of God don't let anyone know that they are covers - you will be the subject to no end of ridicule

PLEASE always do a search before you post a topic. And for the record, pay CLOSE attention to the NAME of the topic below: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/240794-v35-faq-read-first-before-posting/

^^^ these. Or there is a set of Brembos that has been sittin on Ebay for a fair while (nowhere near the condition of the Akebonos and don't include dics/brake lines): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-V35-Skyline-Brembo-Brake-Calipers-Set-Of-4-Front-Rear-Parts-Wrecking-/290767489551?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b317ca0f

Whenever I see a Falcodore with the stock brakes painted a bright colour I always wonder why the hell they bothered ... it's like waving a flag saying 'look at me, I have stock povo brakes and am happy about it'. Like I said, I would have thought stealth is the best option here When they are black and or dirty you can't even see them. Or, if you love your car and value your safety, toss the stock pos brakes and buy some Brembos/Akebonos - there are heaps of sets around and they are cheaper than ever. They work AMAZINGLY and look great. THEN feel free to paint them some outlandish colour and show them off :D It was one of the first things I bought for my auto V35 and have never looked back.

Consider the strut brace and engine damper sold to me if you accept my offer

I would have thought you would want to leave those hideous (and crap) stock brake calipers black, so as to not draw attention to them .... I assumed you were talking about repainting Brembos.

I bought the drive-by-wire kit and factory V35 steeering wheel switches quite a few years ago from Chris - they work flawlessly. Highly recommended. ranlod - you have the option of paying for a flight to get Chris to singapore to work on your car - I know of a guy here in Adelaide who flew Chris down to mod his V35 sedan.

As far as I am aware the best option is to remove the calipers, pop out the pistons and seals, then have them powdercoated or painted/oven baked with heatproof paint. Then buy some rebuild kits, and put new seals and lube back in before you refit them. And yes, it is a good idea given the age of the car to flush your brake fluid. This is a job you can easily do yourself - save yourself $420.

Mine is the opposite - mine has never, ever locked. It makes a sound when I lock the doors/arm the alarm, but doesn't lock. If/when you figure out how hard it is to change, what the part number is and where to get it/how much it costs, can you please let me know? If I were you I would be trying to get in behind it from the boot and see what you can release. Pulling on it until it breaks is not really an option imho.

Yeah, anywhere with a 10 ton press can do it, which includes pretty much every workshop around. Will cost you a few $$ though, as it's a bit of a pita job. The bushes themselves are about $100 a set in nolethane out of the USA.

Take it to a local mechanic - they will be able to tell you in 5 mins what it is.

I find it the most ironic thing in the world that a heap of us who have been around the block said "don't do it like this, you are asking for trouble", and then we haven't seen a single post from Ben or anyone who said they were going on the cruise since. So how was the cruise - was there any police or bogan trouble?

Yeah, sorry to be the one to break the bad news, but if you think an 11 year old car has 60k on it, then you are VERY sadly mistaken. Pretty much EVERY SINGLE CAR imported by a dealer has had the km would back (and some in Jp are wound back prior to selling). When you take your car to a mechanic that knows V35s ask him for his opinion of the REAL km. You will be unpleasantly surprised. Cars and associated costs just cost WAY too much in Jp for people to do so few km on them - hence why anything that seems unbelievable, normally is. Mine had '48,000km' on it when I bought it, but there were a host of different things on it that if you knew what to look for told you a very different story. Good news is that mine now has 145k on the odo, so probably more like 200k on it in real km, and it stilll runs like a dream. And apart from shocks and various bushes, I really haven't HAD to do anything to it - the things I have changed I have done so cos I wanted to. And people still come up to me and ask if I just bought it new, is it fast, and comment on how awesome it looks! Also clunking when changing from 1st to 2nd can often be gearbox or engine mounts in Nissans, which again lends toward your car having significantly more than 60k on it if they are worn.

It would most likely be your lower control arm bush(es). If your car has done more that 75,000km I would almost guarantee that is it. You need to buy a new set, cut/press out the old ones, and have the new ones pressed in. Do a search and you will find more info about the place.

Nissan is the obvious solution .... but get ready for the price - $27 from memory. Some numb-nut tightened mine so hard the inside of the top physically came apart from the threaded part over time and I failed scrutineering at a track day because of it. I used a demineralised water bottle lid temporarily, as stated above.

Nah quite a lot of new cars and various things have self-healing paint/surfaces. They are even talking about the new IPhone6 having a form of it. The clear coat has a polymer in it which stretches closed when it is scratched. Hence why Scotty raised the point about not being able to cut and polish it.