Nightcrawler

Hi, I have the install diagram and a warning out of the instruction manual I desperately need translated. Has anyone got 10 minutes to help a fellow Skyliner out? Pics attached. I have blanked out the pages for you to write/type in the translation. Thanks a heap! If anyone can help asap I would be most grateful, as I am hoping to fit it in the next day or 2 (I am hoping today). Thanks, Andrew

Might sound harsh, but people who don't have an alarm in their cars should be hung, drawn and quartered. It just raises the insurance premiums for people who do the right thing and don't beg for their car to be stolen. Especially if it is parked in a driveway in Ottoway overnight.

Hi, I recently bought a 2nd hand R-Spec MIT350 (it's a turbo-timer come RSM) and need install and usage instruction manuals. I am happy to pay a 'reward' for a scan of manuals or an emailed copy. Thanks, Andrew

any idea on shipping cost of the springs to Adelaide?

hey Greg, not sure exactly what you are after, but I bought a set of 'riced up' wheel nuts from Tyrepower in Currie Street. Say you are off NS.com and they will give you a discount - I got mine including fitting for $50, and every nut is sort of a lock-nut - you get a tool to undo them with. They come in chrome, gold, anodised blue and anodised red.

black 4 door

nah I'm not new - just haven't played for a while - last timeI checked I had a couple of ranks and awards - I unlocked a nice sniper rifle too .... unless the stats reset. Go to www.userbars.com and you'll find all the info you need mate

yeah Brendan, but a boost gauge is a whole $59 from JustJap these days. Sorry I didn't realise it was you on BF2 the other night - had a brain fade .... and forgot about the Tangles tag

its un-chipped. >> I figured as much, thanks Remember your car with the stock ECU is tuned for Jap fuel, not Aust Fuel >> yes, hence why I'd notice the ECU being reset - the car would run differently, but doesn't. It shoud relearn for 98ron fuel to some extent, but continues to run very lean at the top of the rev range. What do you mean by it does not want to reset? Its not like the thing flashes lights to tell you it "has" been reset >> see above - but the fact that it runs much better and is much more fuel efficient with octane booster indicates it is still tuned for 100ron fuel (ie. not reset). the ECU does not control the boost solenoid under the engine bay, so your actuator might be modded. Are you basing it off the stock boost gauge or aftermarket one? >> true, I haven't checked the boost solenoid yet. Aftermarket boost gauge - the boost is definitely hitting 12/13psi max, but 10psi most of the time. Interestingly my car doesn't do the low/high boost thing - makes me double wonder about the boost solenoid. Split wires to the ECU just means an S-AFC or similar was used in japan >> true. Not sure why the ECU has been opened though (and it definitely has been) - seems strange to me.

A few facts - my R34GTT ECU doesn't want to reset (ie. disconnect the battery and pump the brake a heap of times doesn't work) - my near stock R34 runs a ton better and with heaps better fuel economy when I add octane booster - my near stock R34 seems to go a bit quicker than I think it should - have now installed a SAFCII (not yet tuned) and found some of the ECU wires have been previously messed with - indicating a removed device - the ECU has been opened (warranty/sticker is broken) - it runs 12-13psi max with no probs (and no boost control whatsoever), but detonates (or boost cuts not sure) right at the top of the rev range - even with a full bottle octane booster added So, what I am after is for anyone that has seen inside an R34GTT ECU to have a close look at my photos to tell me if anything is different to stock (chip etc). Nothing looks out of place to me, but thought I'd pose the question. Thanks.

wow nice console etc there allblitz - have you taken delivery of the car yet? I am interested to know what finish is on the console bits - is it paint? Looks more like plastic coating.

Hybrid dual stage EBC around $200 on forums/Ebay works well, has in-cabin switch between high and low boost, as well as actual boost adjustment

nah in reality it isn't even that much. Have had both sitting on the workshop floor next to each other about 2 months ago. Will bolt-on with minimal massaging. The only thing that will vary slightly will be how far the tip sticks out from the bumper. Can be fixed with a spacer if needed.

I get 300km a tank in my tiptronic R34GTT 4 door too. Interestingly when I put a bottle of ocatne booster in I got 350km and had been flogging the crap out of it for the whole tank. I haven't checked, but I suspect I have a Mines ECU or similar. It won't seem to reset to suit Aus fuel and wants 100 Jap fuel. I am fitting an SAFCII tomorrow, so will see how that goes.

on a similar note: I brought in my R34GTT sedan which was completely stock, except for a 3" HKS SilentPower zorst. Car ran fine, no idea what boost it made, but seemed to go fine and went hard. Even with Aus fuel in it, it ran fine, even when flogging it. Fast forward to today - mods as follows: - same HKS 3" zorst - Batmbl mild steel segregated front/dump pipe - Xforce 3" high flow cat - Apexi ECV - Apexi pod in custom CAI (with plenty of fresh air via ducts) - JustJap (Hybrid copy) FMIC - Autometer smoked boost gauge Now when I got the car back from complaince, I fitted pretty much everything in a 1 week period, and reset the ECU. Problem is, I don't think the ECU actually reset (which leads me to think my ECU has been tinkered with). So, when I am running with the ECV completely open, I make a solid 10psi by 2,500rpm, 12psi by 3,500rpm and it spikes up to around 13psi right at the top. But - right at the top of the rev range, when I am booting it, it makes this brief horrible sound, which a mechanic mate thinks is detonation. I think it sounds more like a boost/fuel cut than detonation, as there is no tinny note to the noise. Anyhow, my real question is, how can it possibly hit 13psi with the stock ECU - I thought this was impossible (which also makes me wonder whether my ECU has a Mines upgrade or similar - but why then didn't the car have other mods - and before you say it - it doesn't look like it has been stocked out prior to sale). Has anyone else experienced anything like this? Also I want to note that by closing my ECV, I can adjust the boost (as you'd expect) - it is quite linear. With the ECV closed it will only boost to 1psi, and obviously the car is dead silent, and has significantly less power. It is a handy device. So that is another option - get an ECV, and you can run with the ECV partially closed and that will limit your boost!

*SOLD* (for $200 pick-up)

fyi I have had enough of the R33GTR HKS Hiper-Ds and am pulling them out. I am likely to buy some of the R34GTT Bilstein/Whiteline combo group buy from Sydneykid. Bottom line is R33GTR suspension is NOT suited to an R34GTT

yeah Sean - I have had them in the boot since the Barossa cruise (I thought you were coming to that). What are you up to tomorrow? I have the arvo off work. Might give you a ring.

glad you like it Darren - I saw the string and couldn't resist snapping a memory

how much do the boards cost, and how can I get it tuned in SA?

I've got a Sony P8 that I have had for a few years .... and a Sony MSCD200 that writes to 8cm CDs (for travel purposes).

speaking of keeping a camera in the car (which I always do) - and call me a dirty old man - but I snapped these great shots last week

Iceduck owns a spare set of R34GTT wheels (I still have the centre caps for them in fact) - fire him a PM. I think Nozila has them at the moment - unless they are on Iceduck's R34 to go to Regency. Also, Trev from Four Brothers Imports has a set on a black R32 in his yard at Clearview. I think he might hire them out for a modest fee?

so what's the total price of a set of shocks and springs to suit R34GTT delivered to Northgate SA 5085? And what are the payment methods? Too lazy to read back through all the posts.

lol @ Mel Glad you enjoyed them Sam and Vange