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Everything posted by Nightcrawler
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I have moved this to the correct forum - please ONLY use for sale forums to sell items. Period.
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^^^ agree with Locky - absolutely perfect offset .... and yes, Jesse is by far the cheapesst (and most reliable) guy around Jp.
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1991 Black Rb25 S13 - 450Hp Rb25, Dmax, Absolute Weapon !
Nightcrawler replied to 32_Dave's topic in Classifieds
We don't delete sold threads - we close them -
What Brake Pads Do You Use?
Nightcrawler replied to Lemonnuff31's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
They advertise them as being dust free, but they are not. In fact it is impossible to be dust free if you are grinding away microscopic amounts of metal every time you brake. But I find them to be pretty good on brake dust - significantly less than the Ferodo DS 2500s I used to run. Definitely happy overall. -
What Brake Pads Do You Use?
Nightcrawler replied to Lemonnuff31's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Yep, as pointed out, you don't want pads that take ages to heat up before they are effective, you don't really want HEAPS of brake dust on a street car, and most inportantly of all (as mentioned) most race-suited pads will rip the shit out of your rotors - who want to change rotors every 6 months? Go with the HPXs - you won't be sorry! I have run them on my S15, R34 and V35 and love them - especially for the price. -
What Brake Pads Do You Use?
Nightcrawler replied to Lemonnuff31's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Much better than standard Bendix pads (and only marginally more expensive) are QFM HPX pads - email GSL Motorsport and they will hook you for $79 per axle. http://www.gslrallysport.com/ -
I put tint on my tails originally for a car show with intention of taking it straight off, but never got around to it - have had it on for nearly 3 years now and had cops behind me, gone through breatho stations, and have NEVER been pulled over nor had a comment about them. And they are dark as!
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I have never seen such a thing. ^^^ oh, and do you like my numberplate?
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- Around $1k a head last time I checked - $15k for 15 people.
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Sheeet that is a pretty top of the line lappy - nice work!
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Air Conditioning Issues
Nightcrawler replied to V(35)Powarh!'s topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
I was talking a bit figuratively - on even a moderately warm day even 18 degree air feels veritably icy. But I realy have no idea what temp. the air comes out. -
As pointed out, I will be there .... and will hopefully have a spare ticket for you Matt - will only know during that week though. If any other spare tickets pop up in our group (which almost always happens), Nussio do you want a free ticket to come with us on the Friday?
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Engine And Electrical Bug?
Nightcrawler replied to Marshan's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
^^^ what an absolute crock of shit .... I have NEVER heard of this happening in mine nor any of the hundreds of V35's I have come across/members of this/G35Driver forum. -
Air Conditioning Issues
Nightcrawler replied to V(35)Powarh!'s topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Sounds like one of both of your thermo fans is not working (or not working properly). I have a black 03 coupe and over 35 degrees the a/c will click off if I sit around idling for 10 minutes or more, but it is fine no matter what length of time I idle under 35 degrees. If your thermos are working, perhaps try getting some compressed air onto you radiator and your a/c radiator - the a/c radiator particularly could be full of bugs or dirt, and is not working effectively. Then get your gas checked - there is every chance your gas is low, thus reducing the effifiency of your a/c and making it work too hard - hence shutting off due to heat earlier than usual. If it is stinking hot and I am planning on idling for an extended period (or the car is really hot), I will often pop the bonnet and pour/spray water out of a water bottle onto the a/c radiator - makes it work 100% better for a short period of time - the air comes out ICY. -
But from what I have read from multiple people, if/when the aftermarket solenoid setup fails then you have NO access to your car. Period. Since you have to unhook the stock stuff, if the aftermarket connectors to the stock linkage come loose (and they always do after a period of time in aftermarket kits), then your car is locked shut fairly permanently - as you can't even open the door from inside the car if you climb through the boot. And you can't access it to fix it without opening the door. Go have a read on G35driver.com - there are dozens of horror stories. Plus, I use my car for work, so an average day it gets locked/unlocked say 50 times - so the usage/wear and tear on it is significantly higher than a normal car. For the sake of a couple hundred dollars then it will work perfectly for the rest of the life of the car (the newer units are redesigned internally and do not fail like the oem ones did) it is not worth the headache of ever having to fliddle with again imho.
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Engine And Electrical Bug?
Nightcrawler replied to Marshan's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Sounds like a loose earth. Start in your battery compartment and check that all cables are secure. Really you want an auto elec to check it out asap - imagine this sort of thing happening as you went to pull out of an intersection in front of traffic! -
Performance Chips
Nightcrawler replied to Hunter_in_a_V35_250GT's topic in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)
Almost all 'performance chips' are a load of bs ..... the ones you buy on Ebay are almost always just a resisitor that you need to wire/solder into your afm wire to trick the afm into running the car a bit leaner and get slightly better performance. This is of course a load of bull, as 1) our ECUs self-learn anyway and would readjust themselves in a short time, and 2) you don't want the same amount of afr changed at all rev ranges. In short they are a load of crap, and you get what you pay for. If by 'performance chip' you mean a piggy back or interceptor computer like an SAFC Neo or Unichip, then some gains can be had by tuning - but you are talking around $500 to buy the units then around $500 to tune. Your best bet by far (if your model of car supports it) is to buy an Osiris cable and software and have a workshop reflash your stock ECU with a custom tune. Of course if you are a P plater (which I am guessing you are - there is no reason in the known universe that anyone would buy a 250GT otherwise) then modifying your ecu or tune would be illegal under state laws ayways fyi. In all of the above scenarios performance benefit is going to be negligible at best, even if you have supporting mods like exhaust, intake, spacer etc etc -
Sadly, since the drivers side door central locking unit is the master, and it is obviously on the wrong side of the car in the USA, you can't buy a USDM lock for our cars
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^^^^ I have to put a new door lock mech in my drivers door, which apprently requires removing the window and is a pita of a job ..... I might need some help of someone in the know[i/i]
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I know Simon Michelmore does this - not sure if he will do it for a 'non-friend' (ie. he doesn't have a business as such), but you never know .... https://www.facebook.com/simon.michelmore.7?fref=ts
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There is not a lot I can suss out Luke, but I did an IP trace, and he is indeed in Pakistan. Problem even with Paypal is that if you transfer the cash, they send you an expty box (or nothing), then they withdraw the $$$ and close the account, then you have no protection. I am pretty sure if Paypal can't get your money back, then neither do you.
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Yes imho