Nightcrawler

There is no commercially available double din solution for the V36. The one I have seen with pictures floating about the internet is completely custom - and they had to move the climate controls completely (into the roof lining), which seems like a horrible idea. FYI the 'G35' on the box means that the double din kit that you have is for a 'V35' (the V35 is called a G35 in America), not a V36, which, bizarrely, is called a G37 in America. They are completely different.

I would imagine you have a grommet leak somewhere between your firewall and engine bay, and water is getting into your wiring or ECU. Definitely get it checked out asap by a decent mechanic.

Pro tip: SAU has a wealth of information on this and every topic to do with Skylines - go do some reading ..... VQ35s have a timing chain, not a belt.

Every 5,000km, religiously. These are highly tuned engines and need to be treated as such. And decent quality synthetic oil must be used too imho. My V35 has done 200,000km and still runs like a new car.

V36s are drive by wire ..... pretty sure no analog system is compatible.

Almost all of them don't work, or work in a very limited way. Our systems are Canbus, not true OBDII, and even many mechanics have trouble getting readers to read our cars There is a certain chipset that you need to have to even have a chance for an OBD reader to speak with our cars, but I am not sure what it is. Maybe others on here have gotten one to work?

^^ they certainly do. I had a black 280rwkw R34GTT in black and swore I would never own a black car again ... then found my current V35 in a yard and instantly fell in love with it - in black of course ... and here I am hating keeping the thing clean, but am thinking of upgrading and loving of course a black Q50 or Q60. Hmm decisions, decisions!

I haven't used that particular kit, but that is not expensive - that is about the going price for a decent drive-by-wire cruise setup. And it includes the oem steering wheel switches, which would be a decent amount of that cost. Synergy have been around for a long time and quite a few people swear by them. They are predominantly a car yard, so I generally don't trust them as far as I could kick them, but for stuff like this they are trustworthy imho.

Absolutely love it! One of these is next on my shopping list also. I have been toying with the idea of getting a Q50 for a couple of years, but now the Q60 has come out with the 3.0LTT it is the way to go.

Awesome news. Hopefully it is gone for good!

Looks like you might have found the solution, but mate .... NEVER buy a car with a warning light on - you seriously believed them when they told you it wasn't a big deal? Surely they had tried to fix it and failed. Warning lights are there for an extremely good reason. Lesson learnt for others. I would suggest you have an underlying problem that NEEDS to be fixed - even if you follow the steps to reset it, surely it will come back until you actually fix the issue. You need to find an import friendly Nissan dealer - random Nissan dealers WILL NOT help you - you have bought a grey import and subverted the whole retail stealership tree - Nissan HATES you, and your car. They DO have the tools to diagnose and fix it, but say they don't as they want you to suffer. That said, there are guys who work at Nissan who are occasionally sympathetic to our cause and/or own a Skyline themselves (I know of one here in Adelaide). Or you need to find a decent auto electrician with decent CANBUS compatible hardware and software (V35s/V36s are tricky though). But like I said - just clearing your code is unlikely to make it go away - you need to fix the underlying issue(s). Hopefullly it is not a big deal, but given you were sold the car in that condition I would suspect something major - think about it - if it was easy to fix/clear the dealership that sold you the car would have fixed it.

Wow, I was just about to post that $14k is a LOT too cheap, until you said you are in NZ. When asking is it a fair price, consider what else you can get with the looks, comfort and power for $14k, and you will very quickly realise there is extremely little. They are excellent value imho, especially when you don't have to pay the taxes, import duties, gst and compliance we do here in Aus. Your car would easily cost $20k if landed and complied here.

If you are going to continue buying goods off Japanese auction sites then selling them on here for massive profits, you are going to need to register as a business trader on SAU.

Have you had a mechanic look at the a/c and any idea how much it is to fix?

You will need the correct harness. Every stereo manufacturer has a different plug config.

Haha but MattH has MattR's problem though Steve ..... getting the thing off the line

Speak with Donnon - he will give you an idea of cost and difficulty.

^^^ what Chris said

I couldn't possibly imagine it would be under $10k to get a turbo kit and all the associated things engineered (fuel system, intake, exhaust system, emissions etc etc). Regency DO give you the certificate to say that you are roadworthy, but how does a cop know just because you went to Regency last week, that the car is still in the identical shape it went through Regency? The VAST majority of owners get defected then stock their car out back to factory (often costing thousands), go through Regency and have the defect taken off, then within hours all of the previous mods/turbos/whatever are re-fitted to the car and they are on their way. Hell, there are a couple of mobs around town that have a drive in/drive out service where they will stock out your car for inspection, then refit all of the previous goodies - for a decent fee of course. You really need to go and read this thread from page one and hear all the defect/Regency stories. Very intentionally cops/Regency have made it an absolute nightmare to own a modified car. In a lot of ways they have won And no, you definitely can't sue the police in that scenario - if they SUSPECT that your car is illegal they have the absolute right to send you to Regency. That is the law. I know people who have been to Regency more than 20 times in the same car. I also know of people who have had their engineering certificates laughed at by the cops as they wrote them their defect notice. Most people don't care about having a car engineered or the legality of mods. They run the risk , and then when caught stock it out, pass Regency and re-fit all the goodies. Sadly in the case of our cars to de-turbo for inspection then re-turbo a car post-inspection is a MASSIVE cost and you would not run the risk.

Fine, don't listen to my advice. I know it is technically possible, but you are up shit creek without a paddle as far as legality is concerned. You have obviously never dealt the Regency/DPTI before. For that matter it seems like you have never been pulled over by an SA cop before. You are also forgetting to add the 10s of thousands it will cost you to get engineered/emission tested in your $70k vs $100k comparison. You seriously are not listening to what you are up against $$$-wise. By far the biggest issue for you is the fact that even if you go the expense and trouble of getting it all engineered, the engineering certificate is not worth the paper it is written on. Time and time again SA cops have proven that even if you have the engineering paperwork in your glovebox they 1). can't and won't understand what is written on the document so send you to Regency to sort it out, and 2). their assumption always is that you have then gone and modified the car beyond the engineering specifications (which let's face it everyone does - even if it is adding 1psi of boost). The first time you get pulled over they WILL defect you if they are in even a mildly bad mood or their quota is low. But go speak with Martin, I am sure he will tell you in one second whether it is a good or terrible idea. I know which one I am voting for. Honestly, I wish you good luck, but you asked for advice, and I am giving it. Having owned pretty highly modified S15s and R34s, I have been up against SAPOL/Regency many, many times. It is not fun.

You have absolutely zero chance of getting any of that engineered or through Regency. They are VERY, very strict. Pretty sure there are no circumstances in SA where you could get an aftermarket TT system engineered. Last I heard we don't even have an emissions testing centre or anyone that can do it (used to be at Mistubishi, which is long gone). If I were you I would have a very long chat with Martin Donnon from Willall, but if you are wanting all of that to be legal, I can almost guarantee you that the answer will be a very strong NO. Your first and biggest problem is that no aftermarket ECUs/tuning solutions are street legal. IMHO for the amount you are going to spend plus the value of your Z34 you would be MUCH better off buying a $100k 2nd hand R35GTR, which will make that sort of power stock and be built to properly handle it.

Install is the same as G35 lights - they are the same assembly-wise. But the short of it is: jack up your car, remove your under drip-tray, front bumper and both guard inner plastics. From memory there are 3 (or 4) screws you need to undo on each light - one at the front at the bottom of the light and 2 at the side (maybe one on top?)? Either way follow the lights around and you will find the bolts. The wire harness is VERY short, so you have to pull out the lights as far as you can and get a thin screwdriver to push down the little clip on the grey plug before you can undo the plug. The slightly tricky part will be whether your new lights have the same bulbs as the ones you are taking out. At compliance import compliance workshops were supposed to remove the HID globes and ballasts and modify the light housing to accept a different globe (H1? from memory). Some did this, some did not. You will only know once you look at the new lights and compare them with the ones you are taking out. Also tricky is levelling the lights - this is a fair PITA, but if you look up guides online they will help you out. Hopefully the ones you have bought are set up correctly and you don't have to mess with them. Be wary, if they are not set up correctly they will not have the correct cut-off and will blind oncoming traffic.

If it is indeed 'very, very' loud as you say, then you WILL get defected. Depends a lot of where and when you drive it too. Even if it was just one 'very' loud, you would be likely to get defected if you drove anywhere near town on a Saturday night or attended any of the cruises about the place where cops tend to congregate and target imports (even with quiet exhausts). Drawing unnecessary attention to yourself is not a great idea if you cannot risk a defect. Fullstop. Do what I did and get high flow cats, a custom Y-pipe, and delete the muffler from your mid-pipe. Gives you a bit more burble and power, but is definitely not loud enough to draw unwanted attention. Go and see Andrew at AM Performance - he is the best in the business imho.

So you have heard that getting a custom exhaust done is better than buying a brand name exhaust who have tested hundreds of different configurations and done hundreds of hours of R&D on their systems? Reeeeeeeeeeeealy? There is a good reason people go brand name and cough up the big bucks. Lack of unbearable drone is one very, very good reason.

Pretty sure that removing the O2 sensors is a very bad idea and will send your ECU beserk. All test pipes I have seen have bungs welded into them to put your O2 sensors in.