GTSBoy

I'll say bad things about the shit lottery that is Yellow Jackets.

Yes, those exactly, either angled, or straight ones. I just dug one of my f**ked up old stock arms out of the crap box. 2 views, showing nipples added in places where they were accessible while installed at both ends of the arm, without clashing with anything else on the car (ie the upright, the inner guard, etc). Circled in red.

Just install a grease nipple into the centre of the outer steel of the FUCA. Make sure the bushes aren't long enough to touch each other underneath that nipple. Cut a few mm off each if need be. Then you can push grease in there while it is all assembled. That was the very first thing I did (to all 4 ends) of the FUCAs on my 32 when I put Whiteline adjustable bushes into them. They would squeeze the grease out real fast, and I could squeeze it back in faster.

Small analogue delay circuit with a relay. Just need a trigger, say, fuel pump running for more than 5s or so? Or, you could go full mental and write a sketch for an Arduino.

Even though I have some pretty good (brand) ratchet ringies, I avoid using them to break open tight bolts. A broken ratchet is very annoying.

Also, there's always room for 4 or 5 3/8" drive wobble extensions of various lengths so you can operate the ratchet from a better location.

Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!

Exactly how he said. Place blocks under the tyres to lift the car while the wheels are still carrying all the weight. It only needs to go up 6-8" to give sufficient clearance to get to most things. Or.... 4 post hoist rather than 2 post. I don't trust 2 post hoists at the best of times. Or, a pit. Pits a re good. I grew up in the '70s, in pits. f**k the OH&S rules. Pits rule.

I was driving behind an FG (or something similar) Falcon ute with a shopping trolley wing (1/3 the height of that ^ one) on the back end of the hard cover....and it took me 5s to realise I wasn't looking at an NSX. f**king bogans.

Can perhaps see how the R33 appreciators would think so.

I think you might have skipped a whole vowel sounds there C.

What do you mean by "test"? It sounds like you're just switching things on and off that you already know don't work. Get the wiring diagram and a multimeter and start looking for power where there is supposed to be power and earth where there is supposed to be earth. Look for continuity across switches that are otherwise unresponsive, etc etc.

The Neat gears use an alternative profile, no? Something different to what normal OEM stuff is. Is the noise at all traceable to that? Reason I ask is that my CW&P are effectively past their use by bate and Neat is the obvious option.

Everything looks worse with tri-spokes.

I believe the abominations thread is elsewhere.