GTSBoy

Turm it all the way over and send a photo to Morgs?

This. And also, the rotor thickness is constrained by the calipers. Cannot be much thicker, if at all. Cannot be much thinner, if at all. New rotors are....fairly cheap. Turbo calipers can still be picked up for sensible money. Arguably, the best thing is to get R32 calipers and put them on mount spacers on 324mm discs. That's about the cheapest and easiest way to get quite large brakes that are essentially bolt on. And that's despite maintaining for years that the R32 calipers are not the best choice because they seem to be more flexy and creaky than the others. If you were prepared to put up with nasty little NA sliding calipers, these will still seem like Brembos by comparison.

Greg, you are the reason you cannot have nice things.

But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!

Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.

Should be OK with the right lube.

If that were true, you wouldn't have either of your kidneys by now.

Possibly, but you know that these are what I'm talking about, yeah? They might not suit!

Or take the car to your local TAFE and ask the body building lecturers which of their 4th year apprentices needs a decent project to make something to go there. That's how my dad got all 4 guards for his '24 Dodge made. Granted, he was a lecturer at the TAFE at the time! But not in body building. No favours needed to be exchanged, because they're always looking for good projects for talented apprentices to take on.

Just use the holes to mount a flowing fake moustache?

Yeah, this is what quick jacks are for, for those that have the luxury of needing to garage shuffle. I just drive my car every day. My Skyline is my one and only daily.

If I had to invent a name, I'd call it "Inner Body Side".

Which part of this sounds like the wrong thing to do? I'd say, almost all of it.

Plenty of people have been doing exactly that in Australia for many years. All it takes is to only fill up at servos with E85. And that is not that difficult. I drive past several such every day. The main pain is the consumption rate and having to fill up more often and stash more jerry cans in the shed.

And, you really want to be over 40% eth, probably 45-50, to realise almost all the benefits. E30 leaves a lot on the table.

Snap

It's also important to acknowledge that the stock Nissan side entry plenums are actually pretty good, and Duncan's first principles basis for laying out the order of leanness might not actually apply. It's also possible that #3 & #4 could get some direct shot at the air because they are directly across from the inlet.

It's because the air comes in over #3 & #4. The two "dead" ends of the plenum are at #6 & #1, with #6 being a little more "compromised" (Sorry about all the quote marks) than #1, due to the shape. So you get the dead end effect at #6 & #1 where dynamic pressure converts to static pressure, likely causing the air flow to be highest for these. The others are then just working in from the ends to the centre. 6 -> 1 is only valid for FFPs.

Absolutely nothing wrong with a Profec or similar. He's on a Nistune, so external boost control is a better option anyway.

Its called the "sail panel". 'Coz it looks like a sail.

Yeah, but what boost. That sounds like 10 psi. There's a bit more available at 12, and the extra is worth the risk.

Yeah - 4 or 5 years is the limit for decent tyres. Pedestrian grade tyres with 400 TW ratings start out hard and don't start to suffer until they are somewhat older again. But the stickier decent stuff? Nup. My current ADO9s are < 2 yrs old, 17000km in, only have about the minimum 2mm of tread depth left, and they are.....not what they used to be. They are clearly much harder now than when new. Whether that is heat cycles (unlikely, for a road tyre), different compound between top and bottom of tread, or actually aging out (in less than 2 years!!!) is not really able to be discerned. But I'd credit actual aging as being at least part of the cause. I've got an old pair of ~50% worn AD08Rs in the shed that I really need to get rid of. They started feeling waaaay too hard to put back on the car after a couple of years sitting there.

What starts as a scratch, becomes a flesh wound, then quadruple amputation. Jus' sayin'. Crush resistant gloves (The ones with the rubber strips down the back of the hand and fingers) might not be a bad idea after all!

Just use the correct PPE

'sif not 'Murica.