GTSBoy

Not to mention, that the correct diagnostic approach to "electrical thing does not work" is to start with what I outlined above. You only do swaptronics for things that can't be tested really easily, like ignition coils, AFMs, etc etc. And even then you hold your breath in case the fault that possibly killed the original unit kills the swapped in unit too.

No info.

Zero will do.

It will blow out fast. $3k for turbo, could easily be a bit more. $2k for manifold, at the lower end, and therefore likely to be more. $1k for dump, could easily be more. $1k for coating these things, really should be done. $1k for desirable extras, like EGT ports, EMP ports, heat shielding. Hell, probably more like $2k. You get close to $10k just for the main parts, without pipework fab, gaskets, fasteners, labour. $15k is rock bottom. If you need intercooler, fuel system, clutch, ECU, you're pushing $30k. It is just too easy to spend money.

I'll say bad things about the shit lottery that is Yellow Jackets.

Yes, those exactly, either angled, or straight ones. I just dug one of my f**ked up old stock arms out of the crap box. 2 views, showing nipples added in places where they were accessible while installed at both ends of the arm, without clashing with anything else on the car (ie the upright, the inner guard, etc). Circled in red.

Just install a grease nipple into the centre of the outer steel of the FUCA. Make sure the bushes aren't long enough to touch each other underneath that nipple. Cut a few mm off each if need be. Then you can push grease in there while it is all assembled. That was the very first thing I did (to all 4 ends) of the FUCAs on my 32 when I put Whiteline adjustable bushes into them. They would squeeze the grease out real fast, and I could squeeze it back in faster.

Small analogue delay circuit with a relay. Just need a trigger, say, fuel pump running for more than 5s or so? Or, you could go full mental and write a sketch for an Arduino.

Even though I have some pretty good (brand) ratchet ringies, I avoid using them to break open tight bolts. A broken ratchet is very annoying.

Also, there's always room for 4 or 5 3/8" drive wobble extensions of various lengths so you can operate the ratchet from a better location.

Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!

Exactly how he said. Place blocks under the tyres to lift the car while the wheels are still carrying all the weight. It only needs to go up 6-8" to give sufficient clearance to get to most things. Or.... 4 post hoist rather than 2 post. I don't trust 2 post hoists at the best of times. Or, a pit. Pits a re good. I grew up in the '70s, in pits. f**k the OH&S rules. Pits rule.

I was driving behind an FG (or something similar) Falcon ute with a shopping trolley wing (1/3 the height of that ^ one) on the back end of the hard cover....and it took me 5s to realise I wasn't looking at an NSX. f**king bogans.

Can perhaps see how the R33 appreciators would think so.

I think you might have skipped a whole vowel sounds there C.

What do you mean by "test"? It sounds like you're just switching things on and off that you already know don't work. Get the wiring diagram and a multimeter and start looking for power where there is supposed to be power and earth where there is supposed to be earth. Look for continuity across switches that are otherwise unresponsive, etc etc.

The Neat gears use an alternative profile, no? Something different to what normal OEM stuff is. Is the noise at all traceable to that? Reason I ask is that my CW&P are effectively past their use by bate and Neat is the obvious option.

Everything looks worse with tri-spokes.

I believe the abominations thread is elsewhere.

I like the Viper because it is ridiculous. I like the E Type because it is ridiculous. Cars with long bonnets and short rear decks that are ridiculous are as close to automotive perfection as you can get. The RX7 is also ridiculous. Therefore, given the above, also as good as it gets. I rest my case.

I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.

If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.

Yes, it's because it has hips and bulges on the top/front surface, a tiny cockpit and roof, and the skin looks like it is stretched over muscle. The proportions are....perfect. Long nose, short rear, short roof. What's not to like? It continues the theme started with the S1, that peaked with the FC, being "looking like a front engined Porsche", while gaining a little more of the 60's Mustang coupe profile and stretching the skin more tightly over the understructure. The FD is definitely colour sensitive though. Like all Mazdas. There are plenty of details on it that changed over the years that were either better or worse, could have been done better the first time and/or never changed for the worse. But...the same can be said for the NSX. In fact, that's probably even more true for the NSX. I've also just worked out that part of the reason I don't like the rear of the NSX is that the integrated wing is too similar to that shitful R33 rear wing.

Well, unless you are prepared to do it yourself, or to pay someone for a lot of labour, you don't want to move the rear camber around much at all. Close to stock length on the rear upper arms (both the RUCAs and the tension arms) will minimise the addition of bump steer. That means you should probably be satisifed with whatever neg camber you end up with as a result of it being lowered, and not try to dial too much of it out. Dialling it out by making big changes to the RUCA length will require effort put into tuning the length of the tension arms. And, apart from front caster and toe at both ends.....that's all there is to talk about. So, yes, toe settings, pretty much.

Comes with the turf.