GTSBoy

Yeah. I think Moog's GTR was set up with a stock looking layout on the UC10. It looks good. And that you can connect many direct connect signals to it, use it as an input extender for the ECU, etc. Which means for me, it is almost desirable, because I could mostly/sorta use it against a Nistune ECU. But it's a lot of money to drop for an almost/sorta thing. KnowwhatImean?

Yeah, The UC10 is the first of these to make it all the way to "acceptable" to look at.

We're talking about discrete installations here!

Nah, Haltechs are generally able to operate in the engine bay.

Navara? If it's a Bluebird, I might throw up in my mouth a little.

What heat build up are you asking about? Heat in the wiring providing the power to the Haltech, if remote mounted and power run via the fu(k-da-polees trick wire on the old ECU? Or heat from mounting an S3 inside an original case? I wouldn't run all the power for the Haltech through the trick wire. You just need the activation power. The main power would have to come from an appropriately fat feed. I wouldn't think you could fit the plastic body of a Haltech inside an original ECU case. They're pretty compact these days, but I don't think they're that compact.

GTiR? Noice.

Which would need the same trick wire routed from the aftermarket ECU to the OEM ECU's plug to make sure the aftermarket ECU won't power up when the OEM ECU is unplugged. Totally doable, just a bit of a pain in the butt.

Ozzie cops have known to look for aftermarket ECUs since the 90s. The only ones that could skate buy were bare boards that went into the stock case. If you then went and stuck a Link sticker or something on it, the loss of camouflage was on you. So, no, the new Haltechs won't solve any such problems.

Twin charging needs the supercharger to be PD. Centrifugal blowers need not apply.

Ha! I just looked at the photo and saw the pink!

What ECU is it running? Can't do that on stock 33 ECU.

I'm just being rude. The VQ was developed by Nissan Japan, but it comes from the time when Renault were....ruining what Nissan had been before. Just look at a Nissan Tiida, and tell me that you're not looking at a Renault. In fact, just look at a V series Skyline or Z33 etc and tell me that you're not looking at something Frenchified. I just see the VQ an emblematic of that. It is also a nasty sounding thing. I'm really glad I chose to stay RB and not put a VQ30 in when I did my car. As to the RB30 being Aussie.....arguably it's a bit Aussie.

I have no hard data to report, but I have to say, having driven it to work and back all week, mostly on wet roads (and therefore mostly not able to contemplate anything too outrageous anywhere)..... it is real good. I turned the boost controller on, with duty cycle set to 10% (which may not be enough to actually increase the boost), and the start boost set to 15 psi. That should keep the gate unpressurised until at least 15 psi. And rolling at 80 in 5th, which is 2050 rpm, going to WOT sees the MAP go +ve very quickly and it has >5 psi by the time it hits 90 km/h. That's still <2.5k rpm, so I think it's actually doing really well. (I edited this from a previous version where I stated 80km/h was <2000, but that was a false memory. If I am rolling at ~1700 in 5th and floor it, it will start making boost before it goes over 2k - which is a separate "experiment" leading to the same conclusion. Which is that the boost threshold is actually quite low. It's not fast there, obviously, but it certainly makes progress towards going fast, which is not what it's been like for a long while!!) Because of all the not-quite-ideal things that have been in place since the turbo first went on, it felt laggy. It's actually not. The response appears to be as good as you could hope for with a highflow.

Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.

The other problem is that the pan is on an exchange basis, which would be a pain to have to send original sump to Oz for the work to be done. Would ideally need to be able to pay for a locally sourced core. To that end - I'd just fabricate one outright.

Ha! 'Sif tailgaters work on logic or good sense.

It's a valid point. And it is doable with the Nistune. But I'm not inclined to flex it the way Nistune does - certainly not on a Neo ECU. They're already pernickety enough to tune just one one fuel. And of course, I'm not that interested in putting in a Link or similar, on a daily. With the stock ECU, stock looking turbo, etc etc, I still stand a chance of surviving a run-in with the plod. Last time it went over the pits (which was for the transplant, for because of a run-in with the plod), the Nistuned ECU did not even raise an eyebrow. They want to see a stock ECU running the engine, and they are happy to see it do so without the check engine light** on. Never mind that the Nistune is necessary to make the stock ECU work in a different chassis without ABS, TCS, etc. **And they actually provoke the CEL to come on by disconnecting the AFM, to prove that the globe hasn't been pulled!

I don't know if @MBS206was suggesting that you were trying to drive traffic to your/a Youtube channel, but what is certainly clickbait about that video is that the content is sorta....non-content. Because, we (ie, established RB engine savvy people) all know that the pan rails are different between RWD and AWD RB blocks and that there are long known solutions for fitting AWD blocks into RWD chassis, etc etc. I mean, like Matt, I didn't even bother to watch the video.

The fault code for the AFM should hang around in the ECU for a number of starts after new AFMs were fitted (and then disappear), but the ECU should start running properly immediately that it has working AFMs as inputs.

Fancy it getting to the point where Ozzies would consider importing f**king Datsuns from the US?

Z32 AFMs are 80mm tubes. RB26 AFMs are smaller. Just measure. Nismo RB26 AFMs have a different part number to original 26 ones. Probably also have a Nismo badge - but I don't know because I've never been near one. It's unlikely that they've been changed anyway.

And the lack of ubiquitous availability. If it was less likely that I'd run out of fuel while trying to cross the crime zone, I'd probably be all over it.

A suitably thick, small piece of wood or plastic, taped onto the pedal where that stopper would go, will do you until it arrives in the mail.

Yeah. I'd need it for the extra miles required to get to and from the handful of E85 outlets.** **Not quite true. But the sparseness of them is good enough reason to stay on 98, for me at least.