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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    Prolly need a post in here where you can keep tabs of what got moved where. So, for example, 146 drivetrain and transmission just got dealt with. It would be good to know where you can find the content that used to be in there, and same same for the others that got shifted. I mean - I can see where 146 ended up, with suspension and all, but not all such merges might be so easy to parse.
  2. GTSBoy
    At idle the TPS should show about 0.45V. Yes, it could be the IACV and/or AAC. Got tbe clean and working to do what they're supposed to do. Will not be VCT unless perhaps it is stuck on. Even then, it should idle.
  3. GTSBoy
    What do these look like?
  4. GTSBoy
    Yeah, it won't be that the fuel stays flowing during that decel period. the only reason that OEMs have fuel cut is for emissions/consumption reasons, given that the engine doesn't really need any fuel at that time. But back in the day, with carbies, fuel continued to flow under decel. The problem is merely with when it is cut and when it comes back in (as revs contibue to drop) and how it is brought back on when the throttle is opened again. Transient tuning is always that hard part.
  5. GTSBoy
    Doesn't really matter. Just buy the correct clutch master (which definitely has the outlet on the underside of the front end of it) and f**k off the hardline and replace with a braided teflon hose. This will get rid of the stupid damper that's in the original hardline (if it is still there, given that your hardline has clearly already been f**ked with least once), and improve pedal feel.
  6. GTSBoy
    Yuck. I wouldn't want to have to do the same thing in my car for similar reasons. It's possibly not as bad as that under my dash, but there is at least a local immobiliser/alarm, with internal siren, plus some of my own hurried botch jobs added on top, from....about 25 years ago.
  7. GTSBoy
    Yes, well, one or the other. On R32 (which is the only thing I can look at personally) it's on the rad support panel. You have neither, and it will need to be on one or the other. I must say that the arrangement of holes perhaps looks more like it lives on the bonnet underside on the R34. The rad support panel doesn't look like the R32 one at all. A quick google shows....
  8. GTSBoy
    Look on the top of the radiator support panel. ie, look down from there.
  9. GTSBoy
    Bosch e-throttle. If you're going FFP you might as well put a proper ECU into the poor thing.
  10. GTSBoy
    If the place was full of Skylines, then yeah. But there's not very many of them.
  11. GTSBoy
    It's not just an emissions test. Think of it like a full pits inspection with need to demonstrate engineering for any and all mods every time.
  12. GTSBoy
    S14 rear subframe is just an R33/4 subframe without HICAS. All of the above differ from R32 in a number of ways, but most importantly the lower control arms must stay with the subframe. You can't use R32 arms on S14-ish subframe. it is actually good and desirable to use an R33/4 or S14 rear in an R32, because it is the easy way to get rid of the stupid amount of anti-squat that Nissan put in the R32's geometry. It is this difference that is the reason why you can't mix and match arms. The diff mounts are different and you have to use offset chassis bushes to fit the subframe to the car also.
  13. GTSBoy
    If you're not good with a multimeter, take it to an auto-electrician. There's no way that we're going to be able to guess what you've done wrong from the other end of the inter-pipes, and it's going to take diagnosis effort to find out.
  14. GTSBoy
    Lifters (solid vs hydro) do not affect VCT. For cams, just contact Kelford in New Zealand and tell them what you want to do with the engine and that it is a solid converted 25. They'll know what to give you. FWIW... you can probably use any cam with either hydro or solids at that power level. By "any cam" I mean, there probably isn't a particular reason for the profile to be much different between the two.
  15. GTSBoy
    I use the flattest and most level piece of concrete I have. And then I shim the tyres on the low side of that with sheets of plywood to level the car. The right amount is easily found with a 2m straight edge and a level or digital angle finder. I use both the spirit level and the same digital angle finder I use to measure the camber. Gives a zero check on the angle finder right at the start.
  16. GTSBoy
    9 years later, against an OP with just the one post, who therefore clearly has not been on here since 2015...... glwt
  17. GTSBoy
    Am I correct in thinking that even if you flat a rear, you'll have to fit the spare to the front anyway? I'm thinking that the LSD will thank you for not inflicting a massive permanent speed difference on it.
  18. GTSBoy
    facepalm.gif
  19. GTSBoy
    ^ This. Nitto pump. Aussie made stuff is generally streets ahead of the Jap stuff.
  20. GTSBoy
    Not got it plumbed up arse backwards?
  21. GTSBoy
    We won't be able to tell anything from those photos. Most of them are unnecessary for making decisions about what's good or bad anyway. The ones that matter are the of the crank. And we can't tell what state it is in from those. Take it to an engine builder and ask for it to be inspected and measured. It can probably be brought back just with some machining and undersized bearings. Worst case, you buy a new billet crank. Everything else is fine. New pump, new turbos, new pistons, rings, bearings, etc etc etc etc.
  22. GTSBoy
    No. The rear hat is different, so you have to swap that. At least that is doable. The splines are not the same. Stubs from one will not go in the other.
  23. GTSBoy
    Just paste photos straight into the post. Click and drag from Explorer, or copy-past from an image viewer.
  24. GTSBoy
    And joined with bloody chocky blocks!
  25. GTSBoy
    By contrast, my car gets decent Penrite synth once per year, at somewhere north of 10000km intervals.
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