GTSBoy

Red spot is a good spot. Before the BOV offtake is also good. In the red location you will have fewer strange fueling behaviours when the BOV opens. With the AFM in the upstream (of the BOV offtake) location you will get rich fueling on BOV release (which probably won't matter too much because this is a throttle closing/closed condition anyway.

Stock. If it will idle on an injector (and of course, with a decent computer, the engine will idle on 1000s) then it can run ANY power level above that (up to the limit of the injector capacity, of course). Most of your list of engine mods would contribute to being able to run up to the limit of what the turbos can provide - except for one thing. I would not attempt to do so without a significant oil pump upgrade, and then paying attention to the engine breathing and oil draining situation - as per the oil control thread (or the last 100-150 pages of it anyway).

I would prefer being able to stop for fuel anywhere I like rather than the fuel stations with E85 being 15-20km apart.

Nothing causes front turbo failure in particular. Rear turbo failure is more common, for the known reasons. So, yes, oil supply issues are the #1 suspect. But it can also just be dumb random luck on behalf of the turbo, and it could be caused by the turbo ingesting something (which doesn't happen without seeing signs of it on the compressor wheel).

You're not getting 10.5s on it at either end, without wider guards. So just forget that. The real question will be whether you could ever get 9.5s on the front. They might just be able to squeeze on the back, given camber arms. I go back to the one true known thing, which is that R33 GTR wheels fit and they are 9" +30. A 9.5 will need to find up to an extra half inch of clearance, probably on the outside. it might be better if there was a +25 option. The other thing to remember is that the rear subframe tends to sit off to one side, so you have different guard to wheel alignment from side to side. This is fine most of the time, but when you are trying to cram absolutely everything in......

This is the best outcome. You will now not waste any money on that forklift counterweight currently stuck in your engine bay.

And do you know why? Or are you just proceeding from ignorance?

Just go straight for 1000cc Bosch ID14s from somewhere reputable. A ~340L/h TI pump would be fine. Wired properly, of course.

Yes. It's easy. Only with the caveat that you will have to convert to pull clutch (which kinda sucks) and you will have to fabricobble a speedo drive together using one from an early 90s Navara (same big box as R33/4, cable speedo). Oh, and of course you will need the correct gearbox crossmember (I can't remember if it is A, B or C and it probably depends on whether the car was auto or manual to start with also), and you need to get the front part of an R33 or 4 tailshaft cut and shut onto the R32 tailshaft (the cut and shut happens in front of the centre bearing section - you cannot just use the whol efront section from any other car - nothing is the right length etc).

Add turbo, enjoy life. If not turbo, add supercharger. If not supercharger, add nitrous. Anything else will be a disappointment. Remember, the RB20E is a very small, very low torque engine designed to do one thing and one thing only. Which is to move cars from point A to point B at the lowest possible speed while minimising Japanese registration tax.

No, you cannot. As I said above. A twin cam engine has the lobes for the inlet valves on one cam and the lobes for the exhaust valves on the other cam. A single cam engine has all the lobes for all the valves on the same cam. There is absolutely no way to make this work going in either direction.

Yes, you will need a suitable sized T piece, more fuel hose, a suitable pressure gauge (6 bar should be good) and some hose clamps. insert the T piece in the line between the filter and the fuel rail. Don't cut the existing line. Just undo one end and use some fresh hose for the two** spare legs on the T piece. **Two if you have the gauge remote located on a short length of hose. Only one if the gauge is straight onto the T with fittings.

Have you measured fuel pressure? Have you gone back into the tank to make sure that it is all still together and shit hasn't fallen apart (bad hose clamp, etc)? Have you got any better details than "acting rough"? Is this just at idle? Will it drive fine at light load but starts to struggle with some load? Ets, etc.

Bad switch or wiring more like it. Break out the wiring diagram and the multimeter and troubleshoot it.

And there is the difference. How can you put 2 cams where 1 is?

And besides which, it would only take 60s to measure & calculate offset.

Yeah, no surprise there. The chances of getting the fuelling right with a DE ECU trying to run turbo injectors with boost are slim to none. The chances of the timing advance being right (ie, not way the hell too much) are even lower. You will be lucky not to have damaged the engine if you have managed to put it under any serious load. Yes, but..... You really shouldn't try to run the factory ECU without any mods to it at all - even if you didn't have an FFP. By this I mean that the only sensible way to run a standard ECU is with a Nistune put into it, so you can tune it, to get the best out of it. And if you have something unnecessary, like an FFP, then it would be almost mandatory to be able to tune it, because the FFP will definitely interfere with the air distribution (compared to the stock plenum) and you'd want to be able to deal with that. But, most importantly, if you do want to use a factory ECU, then you're going to need to use the factory throttlebody, because the factory ECU won't be happy with anything else. And this brings in another problem. Unless the ECU and TB are from a Stagea, then there is a bloody great big traction control auxiliary throttle in the TB. This does not fit well in front of an FFP, and you can't easily hack it off. Well, you can hack it off, but then you also need to go down the path of dealing with the DTC codes in the ECU (only possible with Nistune, by the way) and so on and so forth. Not impossible, but stuff that must be dealt with. If you must have an FFP, life will be easier with a Haltech and a modern e-throttle, so you can abandon the IACV and keep everything compact.

And, to be fair, that could be the sole source of any noise I have heard.

Yes. Coils are powered from that 2nd relay. You can bridge terminals 3&5 to take the relay out of the equation, but you can always just probe the terminals to find out if the relay is closed or not (when it would need to be, ie, when you need power to the coils).

It's not at all clear how fast the grease moves and how long it has taken to put enough muck into the speedo to be detected. It has been ~10 years since the conversion, and whatever the seal is at the drive end might never have been any good. We could just be seeing the result of a really slow process. Or, we could be seeing the result of a cable drive being a better screw pump than any could believe. it's also not clear what the seal arrangement is. It could be an o-ring or it might just be a reverse screw/helix thingo. Will have to pull it out to find out. But I think I will have to combine that with an oil change, because I think that pulling the drive out will result in something else coming out too.

2 drives down with no shenanigans. Am convinced that the grease explains all. Now all I need to do is make sure to fix the drive end before the problem comes back. Is it still called procrastination if I just forget?

Grab a couple of metres of rubber hose to use as a stethoscope and someone to use it while you drive. Get them to poke one end of it up under the dash where you think the noise is coming from and see if they can confirm/deny the location and perhaps narrow it down.

A good choice. Being in Europe, you locally have some excellent alternatives to those though. KW, for example.

OK. Thread satisfaction time. As usual, it turned out to be something slightly unexpected. Observe what I saw when it came out. Top end of speedo drive cable. And mating receptacle on the speedo. That greasy sludge stank of gearbox oil. So it would appear that the o-ring on the Navarra-Skyline hybrid speedo drive (for the R33 turbo box to run the cable drive) is buggered. Pushing oil slowly up the cable. At least the cable is super dooper well lubed now. But I'm going to have to pull the speedo drive out and fix the o-ring before it pumps any more gunk out into the speedo. To whit.... It managed to pump a reasonable amount into the cluster. And... You can see it on the outside of the alloy cup that carries the magnet. One can only presume that there was a stack of it inside that cup, in the gap where the copper speed cup runs. A good spray with cancer-in-a-can seemed to blow most of it out. A quick lick of PTFE in a can onto the various worm gears and such in the odometer train (replacing the epic amount of obvious tranny fluid that they'd managed to pick up as a fortuitous lube) and I threw it back together. There was a lot of either unrelated or possibly related filth inside the cluster, so that got a bit of a wipe also. Will go back in tomorrow morning. I'm not squatting in the car in the dark with the mozzies trying to find all the screws. I shall report on behaviour and hopefully preserved single km/h accuracy after a couple of drives. Oh, FWIW too....this is a 252k km old cluster. Everything inside was just absolutely beautiful (apart from the grime). The hairspring on the speedo, every other thing in there - all just in perfect condition. So "dying of old age" does not appear to be a thing, for things that are not abused.

I don't have opinions. Other people have opinions. I have correct positions.