GTSBoy

Yes, those are the correct pins. A digital multimeter is possibly not fast enough reacting to show you this. An analogue meter will do better because you can see the needle flicking around. Regardless of whether the ECU outputs 12V or provides an earth, you will see 12V come and go at those terminals (with a fast enough meter). It's just the duty cycle will be opposite with the 2 approaches. If the ECU provides earth then the 12V is visible there when the ECU is not triggering. And vice versa. Having said that, the ignitor pack has a common earth on the triggering (ECU) side, which means that the ECU outputs 12V during MOSFET activation. To this end, if you wanted to, you could pulse 12V onto those terminals and see the result (if any) at the igniter and the spark plug. A quick dab on-off of a 12V jumper onto that wire will simulate the ECU charging the coil and firing it. I would also open the ECU and inspect the MOSFETs to see if they or any of their circuit tracks show signs of being cooked.

I kinda think that's the opposite of what's desireable though. I'd rather a good ride (and by that I mean actual performance, rather than comfort) than the pretty blonde fakeness of TSwift. TSwift is not even for looking at (and she's certainly not for listening to, or considering rooting). My R32 is for driving, not looking at, and so it's at the correct (minimum) ride height to maintain decent geometry. It still looks good at 345mm.

Well, except that it's way too low and the suspension geometry will have AIDS and herpes as a result. But it does look good.

Given the claims of having injector pulse and smelling fuel, not so much this. But the thought is totally valid wrt coil triggers. I would go looking to see if perhaps the ignition MOSFETs in the ECU are still working. They could have been killed by the poor earthing situation at the igniter. The ECU fires the coils by providing a path to earth for the coil charging current (actually, for the current that runs the MOSFETs in the igniter, but close enough for our purposes today) and if they refuse to change state from off to on or vice versa because they have let the magic elixir out of them them, then you get no spark.

Well, in that case best guess is KV2 Athlete Silver. But seeing as your whole car appears to have been repainted, there's no guarantees. https://www.google.com.au/search?source=univ&tbm=isch&q=kv2+-+athlete+silver&fir=3nz3n0ERnk33vM%2C6T35aLeZXlL4nM%2C_%3BeRDO93pjr2Jj5M%2CLZ_T4F5I0dFw5M%2C_%3BfVQrmqKz9LABzM%2C6T35aLeZXlL4nM%2C_%3BeiBuqVgD9JC5GM%2CLZ_T4F5I0dFw5M%2C_%3BPcQl48dTULaOwM%2CWyXoMnG0MDHzkM%2C_%3BAw1LZrZnjoxxgM%2C8BOVV2Q1-RT5ZM%2C_%3BWtdL23L_-qmYWM%2Cdu-nWFaHwFJGYM%2C_%3Bz-1-xr_D5tTpPM%2CWyXoMnG0MDHzkM%2C_%3BkhGazLt4FcunbM%2CXXL3VUSaWv21QM%2C_%3BvRfGGqhNj-xdrM%2C8BOVV2Q1-RT5ZM%2C_%3BPVFvt4v2v0tnWM%2CXXL3VUSaWv21QM%2C_%3BNZCibpirMHo-LM%2C4Lee5IDzlORrRM%2C_&usg=AI4_-kR5L-Ebb9Dk0Zjp4fIiPnkuwM2_rQ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjekY6Ogq78AhXFyzgGHfEiByQQjJkEegQICBAC&biw=1654&bih=844&dpr=1

The colour code is on the build plate - unless it's been repainted, like my car has.

I think the consensus is that the Pulsar turbos are good examples of cheap Chinese turbos, but that they are still cheap Chinese turbos, in that the tolerances/clearances etc are not....great.

It's very nice. I really mean that. FWIW, you don't really need the L brackets. The stocker just holds the battery in place by clamping it.

It's a lot of load for the one belt to have to pick up at the crank pulley and it would be difficult** to arrange the two pumps so that you go enough wrap on the crank pulley to do it. **Potentially impossible to transmit sufficient torque even should you be able to locate them so that you can get the maximum wrap around the crank pulley.

There never was that many of them in the first place, and it was all such a long time ago. Like hen's teeth. Most people, including myself, apparently, barely even remember that the R32 RB25 was closer to the RB20 than the R33 engines.

Hmm. I guess this makes the thread good reference material for the possibly two or three people in the future who will try something similar with an R32 25 head.

Could be. You're going to need and want to break out the wiring diagram so you can start probing around with the multimeter to find where the angry pixies are being blocked.

This ^. ECCS relay is suspect #1.

This concerns me. You'd rather start it with hopes and prayers when you have personally seen no oil? Oil should flow if you've had that much pressure for that length of time.

There is no problem here. Point 1. DC solenoids do not care which way that they are wired up. They throw the solenoid in the same direction regardless of current flow. Point 2. The solenoid coil is just wire. If you put 12V permanently onto one side of it, and do not earth the other side of it, then the 12V will be measurable at both terminals. That 12V is actually measurable all the way down at the ECU. The ECU doesn't care. When the ECU decides that it wants that solenoid to operate, it provides the earth, by switching on a MOSFET (transistor) inside the ECU that will connect the solenoid terminal to earth (exactly as Duncan^ said). Now the solenoid has 12V being fed in one side and a convenient earth on the other side. Current flows, solenoidy things happen.

What? Like the fact that it wouldn't be legal to tow something as heavy as a car on a car trailer behind a vehicle as small as the Outback? To that end, the Stagea would hardly be likely to have a high enough towing limit either. You do realise that you if you have an accident while doing these things you are f**ked f**ked f**ked, right?

Would the fact that the noise occurs when you let the clutch out, is periodic and appears to be at about engine rpm, not suggest that the noise is in the clutch, or possibly gearbox?

A VIN search on my car won't show any accidents but it's been in a couple, including one that would leave the back of the car looking like that if it hadn't been repaired correctly.

You're talking about the big red power wire with the inline fuse? It's a big red power wire with an in-line fuse.

Right smack bang in the centre of what? The engine, or the injector?

What he was saying is check for continuity to EARTH at the fuse box. If one side is power and the other side is continuous to earth, then when you put a fuse in, you have a short circuit (where you really really shouldn't).

Humblebrag? Whinge? Advice needed? What is it about?

If there's no short to earth then there shouldn't be a reason for a loose terminal to cause the fuse to blow. Well, obviously the + lead can only touch the thing that it is supposed to touch on the alternator stud. There really shouldn't be an easy way to short the + lead to the alternator body. There is supposed to be an insulating washer on most B+ studs (and on the D+ also). See below

My thinking is that mech driven AC comps use a couple of horsepower to drive them. So, if an elec AC comp was in some way super efficient and only used 1500W, it would still pull >100A on a 12V feed. I think the electric AC systems are from electric cars with much higher voltage supplies available.