GTSBoy

Surely this is just screaming out for either an electric AC compressor or an electric PS pump to solve the problem? Guessing PS pump the lower power/easier option.

Wot? This one?

Get a wiring diagram before you set fire to it.

Oh, and check your thread title - that was the initial source of the confusion. I already knew you were working on an R33, but the mention of R32 derailed my thinking.

I realise this, but...... it's still useful. Simple things like what the main fuse runs and what the wiring near the alternator looks like don't tend to change much. Notwithstanding that, the R33 drawings are out there too.

The auto transmission shifter does not go into a hole in the top of the tranny. The shifter connects to a rod that runs down the side of the tranny. The manual gearboxes have a hole in the top of the box for the shifter to go into.

Are you seriously doing this without having the car's wiring diagram? It's freely available on the internet. I even made the best resolution scans I could and posted them on this very forum a year ago or so.

Simply not true. Do not even consider them. This is concerning. What about the ECU? Many people have used them successfully. But Joshua's warning above applies - to some extent. Quality control is not necessarily excellent. That depends on what you mean by "hybrid". It's a pretty meaningless thing to talk about a hybrid Mamba. Hybrid with what exactly? Myself personally? I would not consider an "eBay" turbo for a car that I like. Only for a shitbox. If you just want an easy bolt on turbo option, then you would be well advised to send your stocker to Tao at Hypergear for a highflow. It will meet your specifications for good spool, will be easy to fit, and will make plenty of power. The only downside is having to send it halfway around the world and back to get it done. There are probably turbo builders in your part of the world that can do a highflow, but we can't comment on how good they are. Tao is good.

Is that really going to be true of an NA GTS4 though? I mean....who would want one, at any price?

Hmm. You might be right. I just looked on mine (32, not 33). I have some sort of a little magnetic switch (or something ish) attached to the latch in the lid with a red/black pair, and in the same loom there's a brown/black pair with a 2 pin connector, not attached to anything. It's near the latch, not halfway up the boot lid frame like the OP's photo. It's strange. I've always known that that loom was strapped to the boot frame, yet always assumed that the light switch was near the light itself / the hinge.

Yuh, so both the solenoid and the bootlid stop light would have been aftermarket additions, not factory, hence my reference to an assumption of not being able to find it on the wiring diagram. Wiring diagram being the first port of call for answering these questions. And....is the switch for the boot light not adjacent the hinge, and not down in the "slam violently" zone near the latch? The wiring for a switch near the hinge would also be shorter and more efficient than unnecessarily locating it at the latch.

There's only 2 reasonable guesses, if you can't find it on the wiring diagram. One would be for a lock solenoid. The other would be for a spoiler mounted high level brake light.

If you're going to have an RB26 (assuming turbo) whichever way you go, then.....it would be sensible to not consider whether the starter car was turbo or NA. it won't matter, because it will be an RB26 turbo either way. Go GTS4.

Yeah. The spring was the leading theory, but clearances could also be responsible. It's hard to understand how the spring could fail in a way that does it intermittently. Maybe it's gummed up with something, maybe it's broken in some weird way. Hence the proposed disassembly. Am hoping that some aerosol maintenance (spray solvent followed by silicone lube) is all that is required, because who the hell could tell if the clearance was correct, right? I hope I don't f**k it up. This speedo is literally accurate to the km/h across pretty much the whole range (at least for the 99% of the time it's not being possessed by the devil).

It's still doing it at odd intervals. Mostly on the first drive of the day, but tonight it was fine on the way to the pizza shop, but was reading nearly double as I drove away from the shop. Factor is not 2x. Is about 170/90 = 1.9:1 or thereabouts. Is most disconcerting having the speedo wound off the dial while still only doing ~110. I think I'm going to have to spend a day taking it apart after Xmas day and putting it on the healing bench to see if it will fix itself.

First things first. Install fuel pressure gauge between engine bay fuel filter and fuel rail. Check for correct fuel pressure at idle, at low load and, if these look fine, at higher load. Maybe first things before the first thing. Take apart what you've just done and see whether you have failed to make a connection properly and something is leaking in the wrong spot. Broken wire at crimp terminal, etc etc.

This. If you're using Haltech (or equivalent) and the available engine protection, you'd be mad to not also be using the Haltch (or equivalent) dash with all the information presentation options leveraged.

Small vacuum in the tank is normal, and shows that everything (or at least most of the purge system, at least) is working normal.

Well, perhaps less so this, because as BK said above, the cap is a suction relief (which is the only "vent" on the tank), and the carbon canister is effectively a pressure relief (ie, a vent on the overall tank system, but it's not so much on the tank). So when you're pumping in, even if the pump nozzle somehow managed to completely seal on the filler neck, you couldn't really build pressure in the tank anyway. US (and I guess others') emission regulations worked towards preventing fuel vapour spill out through the filler neck because it was a significant fraction of HC emissions wrt cars, trucks, etc. The carbon canister was supposed to catch them at fill time as well as when just sitting around. I'm not disagreeing with you - just pointing out that there is not a single two-way vent on the tank.

When it comes to boost..... think check valve. The Neo uses an ECU solenoid to dictate when to purge, and this keeps boost away from the canister as a side effect.

See answer to unnecessary cross post

Speedo head generates PWM square wave speed signal that is transmitted to every CU in the car that wants a speed signal (ie, HICAS, TCS, ABS, ECU, TCU). The ECU just waits until it sees 180km/h then calls a halt to proceedings (as well as using a threshold at about 5 km/h for idle up and similar drivability features). If you have removed the speedo head (ie the whole cluster) then you have no speed signal - unless that is, if the person who installed the Link dash put the required effort in to connect the speed sensor** (on the gearbox) to the dash and have the dash output a suitable equivalent PWM signal as the original dash would have. **which is an AC sawtooth signal because of the reluctor sensor.

Not really. It's just a box with 6 transistors in it. The usual failure mode is that they refuse to switch the coils when they get too hot, which is probably a solder joint problem, but could be in the silicon. Swaptronics is usually the only way to demonstrate good/bad. A million years ago I made a set of spacers (out of some ~6mm stainless tube and some longer bolts to lift mine up off the coil cover and try to improve airflow underneath. It did a pretty good job of eliminating the occasional heat soak issue I was having with mine. The ultimate solution was to replace the RB20 with a bigger engine. If you are having a real problem with the igniter, the correct solution these days is to bin it and the dumb coils and upgrade to a pencil coil kit (R35, Audi, etc). Do the necessary rewiring (trivial) and boost off* into the sunset. *Sorry, wheeze off asthmatically into the sunset.

You have the steering column fully extended already? I'm 197cm tall and have no need/want to bring the wheel any closer than what the original adjustment offers.