GTSBoy

We don't all live in the soviet socialist republic of Andrewsistan (formerly the republic of Bracksistan) Greg. The rest of us can get away with a bit of dose. Even if it is totally juvenile.

The qty of energy lost off the turbine housing compared to the qty of energy flowing through the turbine and doing work is.... a tiny fraction. People worry about things that are not real.

No. Is there a strong vacuum signal on that vac line on the pressure reg when you pull it off? If there is not, suspect the source. If there is, then suspect the reg. But something is defo f**ked.

Note my nope is in response to OP question, not Murray's point.

Nope. It is an air mass flow meter. It will measure the mass of the air, regardless of its temperature or pressure (OK, within sensible temperature and pressure limits) regardless of where in the intake tract it is place. The air mass rate being sucked into the turbo is the same as the air mass rate being blown out of the turbo, at all times (ignoring during blow off valve events).

Put it in the cold side pipe from the intercooler and win at life.

And if you do not follow the above advice, please at least f**k off the 1920s vintage Z32 AFM in favour of a modern card style one.

And besides which.....anyone who gives their turbo a hot breakfast then shuts it off hot deserves it to get coked up.

Colour me confused. How can you remove the dampener to see what the idle pressure is? I feel that you are confusing the wording or the physical location of these devices. The dampeners are upstream (and perhaps on) the rail. The reg is at the outlet of the rail and is the very last physical device in the fuel system other than the return line to the tank. Do us a favour. Locate the real, actual pressure reg. Remove the vac line from it and tell us the idling fuel pressure then.

Why no twin EFR7163 or VK56 or LS3 transplant options?

Coking is not a thing on a running turbo that has cooling (ie sufficient oil and/or water flow).

It would take someone to be familiar with how much volume of fuel flow they expect to see out the back of the reg at idle load to b able to tell if what they were seeing was normal or not. The correct way to diagnose fuel pressure problems is to plum a fuel pressure gauge into the fuel line in the engine bay before the fuel rail. Anything else is just guesswork. And, by the very definition f being a back pressure regulator, the fuel pressure regulator, if undersized for the pump (or, perhaps a little blocked) will cause high pressure at idle and maybe low pressure up top. The low pressure not being the fault of the reg, but of the pump or other restriction on the supply side (not the return side).

EMAP is exhaust manifold pressure. Boost is inlet manifold pressure. For making really good power, you would prefer EMAP to be lower than the boost pressure. When EMAP exceeds boost pressure, it adds more flow restriction to the engine, driving more reversion of hot exhaust gases back into the cylinder, which just generally makes absolutely everything about trying to make power worse. 1:1 is an expression of the ratio of EMAP to boost pressure.

I can't imagine that the repair/write off status would make it any harder to re-register than otherwise. Butt I can't peak for any state that has this pink slip blue slip bullshit. Here in SA we do things the old fashioned way. Regency identity inspection followed by Regency technical inspection followed by "fix this list of shit and come back".

Ah, but that's almost a good idea. It does away with the horrendous moo noise that most CVT 4cyl engines have.

Yeah, see, this made it sound like it was currently a repairable write off (for some new reason) and that it had previously had hail damage repaired. In reality, it is not a repairable write off. It was, but it is now a repaired write off. What will be important here is to know how severe the hail damage was, and how it was fixed. Some hail damage is so slight that your wife will argue to just leave it (ask me how I know) and some is so bad that you wonder how it can be economically fixed. And the skills of the hail repairers vary, and the tightness of the sphincters of the insurance companies vary, so you can have quality anywhere on the spectrum. If the repairs were mostly dentless work, and only a little bit needed to be bogged and painted, then it's probably perfectly fine. If the thing was absolutely hammered and they couldn't just rub them out with dentless repair and had to cover the whole thing with bog, then....as long as it is super cheap, then fine. But if there is no record or evidence of what happened to it, then the questions raised need to be offset by low price.

Six of one, half dozen of the other.

But it's not. really, on cars with multiple arm suspension. That is only really true on mac strut cars, which neither end of a Skyline is. On a mac strut car a lot of the lateral suspension loads are forced into the top of the strut towers because that's where one of the locating links is mechanically connected. So strut bars help to tie those two points together so at least they move in unison, and if they can share some load then hopefully they move less. This stops the suspension angles/alignment wandering around as much. But on a car with upper and lower arms, there is almost no lateral load put into the top of the suspension tower. So they do not have that large mechanical force put into them at such a long lever arm length above the lower inner pivot point. Sure, particularly on a Skyline front end, the upper arm is connected to the suspension tower, but it is only part way up the tower, and that tower is very very solidly build because of that connection point. That connection point is not very far above the chassis rail, which provides plenty of extra beef. So the amount of benefit available from a strut bar on the front of a Skyline is minimal at best. On the rear, you're talking about putting a bar onto the tops of the damper mounts, which again do not carry ANY lateral load, because it's all taken by the suspension arms directly onto the subframe. Nothing "suspension" connects to the body at all, in any meaningful way. A rear strut bar on a Skyline has got to be a pure example of placebo. It might make the body a tiny bit less wobbly. But you're also talking about putting a bar from one point to another, just underneath the parcel shelf which already ties those two places together, just above the boot floor, which also ties those two points together. From a mechanical engineer's perspective, a parallel bar between those two structures is going to do literally f**k all. The only front bars worth considering are tied to the firewall. That will stop the front of the car moving up/down as well as left right, and might do enough to create a real benefit to handling. On the rear, the only ones worth considering are those that are triangulated down to the boot floor, because that is literally turning those parallel structures into a truss, which has go to be stiffer. But again, seeing as the suspension is NOT CONNECTED to the body, it really shouldn't make any difference to the handling. Pure placebo. And Nissan engineers are told to do things by marketing the same as the rest of us engineers are. It doesn't have to make sense, it just has to answer a perceived want from the market.

So, you disconnected the primary load sensor from the Haltech, and wonder why it doesn't work nice? You better not have put too much load on the engine. Could have been pinging its tits off.

Have you driven an Entrail lately. I had one for most of this year (as a rental). Not quite hateable.....but close.

Who's doing the work on your proposed repairable write off? Yourself with your own tools? Because that's usually the only way to make it economically viable. Otherwise, the insurance company would usually choose to repair (if it was going to be economically viable). If you have to pay the going rate, you're going to spend more. Of course, if you get a car that you otherwise can't get hold of, then it's probably worth it.

It's representative. I couldn't bring myself to look at too many more. Gives me the cold shudders as it is.

Good. If you'd killed that diff I was going to come for you!!! I could recommend the guy I use here. I'm sure that you should be able to find the equivalent in Vic, but if not, Alan at All Type Crash Repairs is a good bloke. He has accepted large funds transfers from myself and various other mentally ill people to make Skylines look better than they used to.

Google up the alarm's install manual. The wiring diagram should be there, so you can find the wire/terminal for the valet switch.

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