GTSBoy

Just hang the ambient air temp sensor over the top of the exhaust manifold, f'rigsample.

Would make sense. Can be replaced (if it is damaged) with .... almost anything. Just poke a longer hose into the rail perhaps.

Not only is it pulsating, but the centre of the range of the pressure appears to be about half what it should be. Why is the reg not wound in to give ~43 psi base pressure. That could be all of your lean issue right there. And, I second the following Why did you change these parts, and is the rest of the package able to handle it? What size were the previous injectors?

Hmm. Dunno. I can't think of a reason for something like that to be poked in that rail hole. Don't know if that thing is even on my car. I won't be near my car for another 10 days or so, so I can physically check then. Right now I have photos on my phone from when the engine was out, but they're too dark and blurry in that corner of the bay to show whether it is there or not. Black on black hard to see even in a close up!

Not having a valet button is just a matter of.....wiring up a valet button, no? Surely that alarm is supposed to have one....

Another vote for the "044 is too small". It is too small. We all learned 20 years ago that you would need more than one such pump to support the sort of power you're wanting. As to your fuel consumption issue......that's most likely to be a tune thing. Do as advised above.

Where's the Samsonas?

BOV is on the back of the crossover pipe. The outlet f that BOV needs to be piped down to the turbo inlet. This is shown in diagrams in the manual, but it's a pretty trivial route. The return pipe is about 1" and runs back under the crossover pipe above the exhaust manifold and then directed into the turbo inlet elbow, facing more towards the turbo than the AFM.

So, did you call Brenton?

I'm not sure how you would do this. The RB20DET box uses a cable drive. All R33 speedo drives are electronic. The one good point is that the RB25DE manual box is the same box as the RB20DET box. so if you can find an electronic sender from a manual NA R33, then you could use that. Good luck though. And no, the one out of the autobox won't go anywhere near the RB20DET box.

Amplifier inside it running flat out, regardless of volume setting. Classic class A/B thing.

Needle roller spigot bearings are a typically American thing. That is, solving a problem that doesn't really exist.

I think every Nissan since then LOOKS like a Renault.

These come from the era where the Nissan-Renault tie up was not doing Nissan product any favours. Started in 1999 and has made almost every Nissan since then a French influenced turd, compared to what it might have been if the insanity of the 80s and 90s had been allowed to continue (assuming that it could continue without Nissan going broke, of course).

The different markings are probably just binning. mass manufacturers don't blueprint engines to have matched components. They have bins of different sized pistons and just throw the appropriate sized piston into each bore to match the off-tools dimensions of the bore. The damage is called a cracked ring-land. It is frequently caused by detonation, although there is not a lot of indication for that on the piston crowns. Anyway, it's f**ked. Needs a rebuild. Clearly the last person to have it apart was a clumsy f**k, because the cam timing was out.

At this point, any death of a gearbox speed sensor or a cluster component should really just be a trigger to put a Haltech/etc dash in it and move on with life.

So the RCA is of course the video signal cable. The 12V and earth wires associated with the camera itself are meant to be connected all the time (by the looks of that wiring diagram). I am guessing that you are supposed to provide a signal from the gearbox's reverse switch to the head unit so that it knows that you're in reverse. I have no idea which wires you have shown us are these. Where is the purple wire from? The head unit? Where is the red wire from? The camera, or the car's 12V supply? From what I can gather, you will need to do as I said above. Camera gets power and earth all the time (switched from ignition, of course). Head unit reverse wire gets a signal from the cold side of the reverse switch. That's it.

No. You can't power something with just 12V. You need somewhere for the electrons to go.

Did you solder a bare wire to bare steel? Crazy. Do as @Duncan said. Even better, there's already a bolted connection right there that you could slip a eyelet under. As to the copper wire / plain wire question.....the silver coloured wire will be tinned/plated copper. Still copper underneath.

if it looks like a Renault and smells like a Renault.....

Fours'n'more, Pooraka. He'll hate you for bringing a dirty French Datsun, but will have absolutely no problem doing the job properly.

That is the cooling loop and you shouldn't delete it unless you are replacing it with an actual cooler. I replaced the loop in front of the radiator with the cooler from an R34 auto transmission for a substantial upgrade in power steering cooling.

Have you done any investigative work at all, looking for split cooler hoses, lost hose clamps, blown out manifold gaskets, popped off boost/vacuum hoses? Checked the valve timing? Checked the ignition timing? Checked to see if the IACV is working?

Motor too mall to be useful without power adders, as above. Work it (cams, porting, compression, etc) and you will simply make it even more torqueless down low than it already is, and it will suck more.

Nearly 25 years of ownership of an R32 I have have never once bumped the prop out. And I have an Al bonnet that puts less compressive load (ie a little less secure) than the steel bonnet on a GTSt would do.