GTSBoy

You want to go cheaper than only $120? Are you sure you didn't just buy an R31? Fo' serious. $120 is nothing.

Have you tried the simple expedient of rotating* the whole gearbox a little to engage the splines properly? * a little clockwise, a little anti-clockwise, wiggle and jiggle at the same time.

Nah, there's no point in either mentioning what Australian state you're asking for, or looking it up on the rego authority website for that state.

There's no commonality between 25Neo and 26 ECUs, so it won't want to be from a 26.

The Nissan speed sensor just sends an AC (actually it's more of a saw-tooth waveform, but it fluctuates +ve and -ve) signal to the (factory) dash. That signal's frequency is proportional to the speed. The speedo head then converts that to a square wave 0-5V PWM signal that is put out on the "speed signal" bus wire that is connected to the ECU and any other CU that wants to know vehicle speed (which in an S15, is....probably not very many. Did they have HICAS?). That signal can be fed directly to the Haltch, the same as it is fed to the factory ECU. All this is in the factory service manuals. You just need to read the Haltech manual on what you need to do to configure an input to read a PWM signal like that and connect the wire. But that's assuming that you are using the S15 dash. If instead you are going to use a Haltech dash then you could probably also read the Haltech manual to find out what you have to do to instead connect the AC signal direct from the speed sensor.

It seems that following wires is becoming harder and harder as the years go passing by.

It shouldn't be too difficult to find an arduino based display for these speed sensors. 150krpm sounds like a lot to us, but it's nothing to a microprocessor these days.

This really depends on what you propose to do with this vehicle. Are you just driving it around the on the road? Drag racing it? Sandhills? Dakar? Mud plucking? Rock hopping? Assuming that it's not competitive, not stupid (mud plucking, rock hopping, etc), then....something smallish. G30-660 perhaps. One of Tao's (Hypergear) highflows or ATR turbos rated in the same 600ish HP territory. BW 7163.

Yeah, nah. If a turbo is big enough to make more power than is reasonable on the street, and small enough to come on and be useful on the street - you have the right turbo.

Will actually make a tiny bit less power, because the RB ECUs are not clever enough to wind in extra timing to take advantage of the extra octane, and the further away from the detonation threshold you are, the lower the power the engine makes.

18x9 +30 will fit on an R32 GTSt. That is R33 GTR width and offset - goes on OK. 18x9 +22 is going to poke out and will absolutely need work done on the guards to fit them. I wouldn't do it.

An external leak is so much more likely to be an external leak (drain, etc) than internal seals.

How heavy is the clutch you're planning to put in? If not a monster, there's little point. The tougher Nismo pivot ball is a thing though.

That's hilarious.

Well, clearly, given the way that it flops around, either the channels are bad, or the physical connection of the glass to the lift mechanism is bad.

Does it not sound like a wire or switch problem? Have you not even broken out the wiring diagram and a multimeter to see what's happening?

You're not pushing it hard enough?

The sheetmetal part looks like 15 minutes work in my shed with the panbrake.

Any clutch supplier should be able to provide a release bearing. Obtaining a release bearing is the last thing I would consider a problem.

Let's be clear. It's a road car. You can't stay on the power for more than about 10s at a time anyway, and even if you flog it through the hills you're only on the power < half the time. You don't need to worry about cooling the box too much, and it is mechanically strong enough to handle that much torque. If you cane it silly, then yes, it will suffer. But if you drive it around normally, and launch it from the lights some of the time, you're not doing anything outrageous to it. If it breaks, it will be because it's 30 years old.

Stock box will handle that much power anyway.

it's a big turbo, so it's maybe just possible. But it seems unlikely without a bit more boost.

Of course there's no answer. How can there be an answer on the internet for the specific problem that your car has. Your car will have one of the problems you find on the 'net. It will then be up to you to work out which one it actually is.

Wiring diagram? And then you would need to compare with equivalent from the shitbox.

Looks like somebody's been playing some stupid top down farming/camping/town building strategy game. Le sigh. Shoulda spent more time in school.