GTSBoy

What do you mean "Just checked here"? Do you mean you looked around on SAU for FSMs? Or do you men you asked here? Because, you'll probably need to put more effort in than that to obtain both FSMs. Theres' no way that anyone on SAU gives 2 shits about Qashqais, so won't have a manual. And, you are probably the 1st person ever to want to swap a wheel from a more modern Renault Nissan into a V series Skyline.

Have you done any research at all? There would only have to be about a trillion threads on this topic spread all across the internet. it will be one of the several things.

You'd be well advised to work from factory service manuals.

Airbag compatibility is another consideration. Not to mention whether the spline is even the same, shape of steering column shroud vs. shape of back side of steering wheel (and therefore how poxy it might or might not look from the side/top view), etc etc.

Not to mention stupid on a road car, and leading to no longitudinal grip (from running only on the inside edge of the tyre) and only getting lateral grip when literally driving at 10/10ths so as to roll up onto the full tyre face in corners.

This. When I read the OP, I wasn't actually sure how to phrase this without degenerating into a rage about how there's no such thing as Stage 2 porting, etc etc.

That's a mechanical problem that has caused an electrical problem. I see the damage on the end of the sensor, so presumably that's your sensor short. But it would appear to have been caused by the tone wheel moving axially out of position. It's supposed to be contained within the shield and aligned with the sensor. It's not.

Some thousands.

With a cooler and shift kit it will likely hold that power for quite a few years. But you have to realise that it is a nearly 30 year old car and so it could just go pop seemingly at random. If it does go pop.....you just send it to MV automatics and get it built.

I think you missed the point. The suggestion was to buy 2x good passenger seats (or maybe just 1x if you only want to rejuve the driver's side) and do the skin swap from the one(s) you bought. That's a....somewhat expensive solution to your problem. Are you talking genuine or China-copy? The Crank Motorsport R34 GTR copies or Bride reps are decent. I bought CF alcantara (both fake!) Stardia copies from him. I probably should have bought the GTR copies, but I kinda liked the f**k-you aesthetics of the Brides.

The stock plenum looks like this You can clearly see that it's not just a row of 6 pipes hanging off a common log volume. The 6th runner is different - its inlet is facing the incoming flow running along the plenum itself. This was mostly to make space for the clutch master cylinder in the GTR. As to the coils.... the stock coil format in RBs is standard fare for the 1990s. Lumpy laminated coils, either with or without inbuilt igniters (depending on vintage, and which particular engine we're talking about). The best replacements of this same type are Splitfire. They are basically exactly the same as the OEM coils. No better, not worse. All the other replacements in this stock format, which come in red, yellow and a range of other shitty colours, are all crap. Each and every one of them are bottom of the barrel cheapo Chinese copy manufacture and are barely suitable for stock engines, let alone anything that needs to punch through a dense cylinder charge. Jump forward to more modern engines - everything from Audi R8s, other VAG products, every other Euro, all the Toyotas (Corollas, Supras, RAV4s), Nissan engines like the VQ and VR (and all the shitty 4 cylinder shockers) - they all use pencil coils. This is the new format. They're just much skinnier than the blobby old school laminated coils. Some of them, like the Corolla coils, were very cheap and much more powerful than any stock format RB coil, so we used those. Then people worked out that the Audi coils, the ones from the R35 GTR, and various others were very very powerful, and not that much more expensive. And so we use those. For a 1000+ HP engine, you are about 500HP into the territory of needing the best coils, and not the shitty rainbow coils that you list in your OP. The most expensive part of the exercise is having to buy a "kit" to go with the coils, with appropriate stems and springs and loom/adapters to connect with. And, for an RB26, you will need to delete the igniter pack, which is not hard, just has to be done.

Typical R31 are from a stratum somewhat below you common or garden bogan. I think feral is the best description.

Don't do this. They will inevitably be shit. Replace with some modern pencil coils. As to the standard plenum being more "same" along its length than the aftermarket ones - don't be fooled. The stock plenum is short and the last two runners are somewhat squeezed together.

Well, if there is a mechanical stop involved in the butterfly's linkage, then it simply cannot open more than fully open, even with boost applied to the diaphragm. So....just let boost go to the diaphragm, have it do nothing (because of previous sentence), and not worry about it? Worst case, you draw up a plan for using a check valve or two to block boost from being fed to the diaphragm and somehow ensure that check valve doesn't leave a vacuum signal trapped in there when you don't want it. I strongly suspect that this would end up being too difficult to do simply (ie, doable, but with a lot of extra check valves and possibly solenoids added in), and probably not worth the pain, given the first idea above, anyway.

Given that they famously provide random results, I'd suggest probably not worth that risk. To be fair, their famously bullshit reliability is from working in combo with the stock ECU, but I think it's far more likely that the sensors and loom suck more than the quite sophisticated (for its time) knock discriminatory board in the stock ECU.

I thought that the brushless pump of choice was Fuelab anyway?

It's a bell curve. Some will last infinitely longer than the average, through luck and/or good maintenance. Others will shit the bed as you drive out of the dealer - from bad luck. Others will crap out before 100000km - from bad maintenance. I don't think these VQs have any particular famous weaknesses (ie, oil pump drives, timing idlers, etc, the sorts of things that are famous on various other engines, from RBs to BMWs). And it's not the 1980s anymore, where manufacturers make simple fatal mistakes like completely stuffing up the design of the ring pack or the ring material. Treated correctly, engines just don't wear the way that they used to - can run for >500000km. But there's always those that don't get treated correctly, even if it's only for a while, and then you end up with ring wear, or bad valve stem seals. External failures are more common these days. Plastic intake manifolds, valve timing actuators, coil packs, etc etc.

So, that's likely rings, which is not a small issue. It's the beginning of the end.

f**k you're weird Josh.

Would you be so kind as to shoot these surfaces with an infra-red pyrometer so we can understand how hot hot is?

Only if you go through both wiring diagrams point for point and prove it to yourself. Just because the plugs are the same means nothing. 2 Subarus from the same line, on the same basic body, the same year of manufacture, can have wires swapped around in the same plug. Here you're talking about 2 completely different models (no matter how similar the two cars are, they came from different cycles and there's a million opportunities for it to change).

Dirty f**king Renault, that's why.

You can run fat drag radials because they are not about turning corners. But for decent street/circuit driving, too much width leads to baggy sidewalls which is not nice for cornering performance. You have to rein in your (completely understandable) desire for more rubber on the road to avoid the compromises you have to make elsewhere. Every time I go to buy tyres I um and ahh about putting 245s on my 8" wide wheels, and eventually punch myself in the face and stay with the 235s. As yours is a GTR, wider tyres are eminently possible - you just need 9.5 or 10" wheels.

I was a bit tongue in cheek. For racecar it is 100% allowable. A racecar is already a chop job.

245 is a little bit too wide for 8" wide wheels. 235/45 much better. If you do go 245, then 40 profile a better idea.