GTSBoy

Hmmmmm.....take risks with the oil pump you should not. /Yoda

No. I will recount my old story where the power wire for my O2 sensor shorted inside the loom and burnt the wiring for the PS solenoid - giving me 100% dead heavy steering. Loom faults are defo a thing!

They didn't, really. There's cars based on the R chassis (ie, Skylines Stags) and there's cars based on the S chassis (Silvias and Ceffies). And there's 4 cylinder engines that were mostly in the S chassis cars but sometimes turned up in the nasty budget versions of the R chassis based cars. And there's the RB engines that were pretty much exclusively in the R chassis cars. There are engine mounts for each type of 4 cylinder engine in the S chassis cars (CAs and SRs). There are engine mounts for the 4cly engines in the R chassis based cars (probably the same as for the S cars). And the RB engines have a couple of different types of mounts - essentially the RB26 and all the others. You can pull an RB25 out of an R34 and drop it and its mounts into an R32.

Yeah, but if it's enough current to pop the 60A fuse, it really shouldn't blow one of the smaller fuses downstream. I would presume that there's a significant short in the wiring between the 60A fuse and any other fuses downstream. Melted insulation is the obvious thing to look for. But yes, pulling any and all downstream fuses, then probing in the 60A fuse socket looking for earth would be the best way to start. Hot tip - there shouldn't be a nice path to earth there!

So, the usual suspects. The tune on the PFC, the O2 sensor. The consumption is not outrageous. It is easy to use that much just driving without concern for how fast and far you move your foot.

Not personally. Only going on several other 1st hand results posted on here (and in the UK, I think?). IIRC, my bro-in-law, who is an import workshop owner, has several dorifto customers with them on RBs and they all overheat on the road (although most of them have no shroud, which definitely contributes). It's been some years since I formed these opinions and draw these recollections. It's really only the outcome that remains, not the source material, if you know what I mean. That fan is intended to be for dorifto flatbrims. I think that fan actually moves less air than the factory SR fan. It's about unloading the engine and reducing the noise/power draw (for the flatbrims). It's actually no surprise that the stock RB fan can move more air. The blades on the GKTech fan are rather small.

Why not use the jacking point? Designed to carry the load. All the other mentioned points are not. The subframe is not intended to carry concentrated load from the top of a jack/stand. The diff bushes are not meant to carry that load either (not that stops me from jacking under the diff if I need to - I just don't like it because I'm an engineer who can picture what it is doing to the bushes in mind as I do it). The subframe mounting points being index fingered above are also not really meant to carry point loads from a jack or stand, and you would have to obtain or make an adapter to fit there to avoid causing damage - same as you need for the jacking points to avoid rolling the seam. There is really no safe place on the subframe to put a chassis stand. The best spots available are the lower inner suspension arm pivots, as they are strong and intended to carry the vertical load, and a jack stand will go there without too much risk of wanting to fall off. Well, narrow headed domestic jack stands will anyway. Big heavy workshop stands not so much. And the lower arm pivots are not always convenient either. The jacking points are ideal for supporting the car on stands because they are mostly completely out of the way of just about anything you want to do under the car with very little risk of the car falling off - provided you have the right adapter on the top of the stand.

No. No. No. No. Point 1. The GKTech fan works well on SRs. It is no good on RBs. Get a factory fan. Point 2. You need an adapter to fit the GKTech fan to the RB clutch. That's because of point 1. It is for SRs, not RBs. But it doesn;t worj anyway, so see point 1. Yeah, good luck with that. My experience is that the Dayco clutches are no damn good either. Too noisy. Get OEM. So, all in all, a complete fail. Abandon all that you have and have done, and spend the $500 odd it costs to get proper Nissan stuff.

Why is there a lot of carry on about the pinch welds? You do not jack on the pinch welds. You jack on the jacking points, that just happen to be located at the pinch welds. The jack doesn't touch the pinch weld. The jack touches the jacking point either side of the pinch weld. If you're lifting at the jacking points with anything other than the original jack, you simply have to make sure that you pick up on the jacking points, not on the pinch weld. I always struggle with understanding people's apparent lack of understanding on this point.

Just look on the wiring diagram, find the right wiring at the HICAS CU and bridge it there?

Drill. In Australia, even an attached single car carport will be at least 100mm of 25MPa concrete. A shed/garage should be something better. But even a good shed slab is not good enough to put a hoist on. You need piers/beams to carry the load. But those long/low quickjack style things are probably OK on a simple slab because they're not point loaded. They spread the load out along a decent length. Defo best to check the doco to see what they recommend/require though.

It's called driveline lash and it could be caused by absolutely any mechanical connection in the driveline. Diff gears. tailshaft centre bearing, CV joints, driveshaft splines.

I think you're missing the point. There are no "injectors". There are just nozzles. With injectors, the flow rate depends on the pulse width. The pressure remains high at all times. Atomisation quality depends primarily on the pressure. Low pressure = poor atomisation. High P gives better atomisation. With a nozzle, flow rate depends only on pressure. And, as Ben says, with an incompresssible fluid (ie, pretty much any liquid, including water and meth), the flow rate rises as a function of the square root of pressure. Ie, if you double the pressure, you get 1.4 times as much flow. Or the other way around, if you want double the flow, you need 4x the pressure. If you want half the flow, you only need 1/4 the pressure. (And that's where things start to look grim). Consider what this means for the range of operating pressures you need to cover the flow rate range you want. So, if you were wanting, say, a 10:1 turndown ratio on flow, then you'd need a 100:1 turndown ratio on pressure. What does that look like? Well, your typical pump that you might have available for pumping water in a car (like a fuel pump, or something like one that can live with water in it) can really only manage to produce a few bar of pressure. Maybe 10 if you are very lucky. So, assuming you size that pump and the nozzle to deliver all the water you need at 10 bar, then by the time you are turned down to about 1/3rd of that flow rate you are only getting about 1 bar of pressure on the nozzle. And, atomisation will really suffer below ~1bar. (And, you also need to add your boost pressure on top of that, so you probably lose a bar from the whole operating range anyway, meaning that the pump is actually going to need to deliver at about 2 bar to give 1 bar nozzle pressure into the boosted air.) So what that means is that you will struggle to get better than about 3:1 turndown ratio, and I'd suggest that most systems' pumps wouldn't deliver even 10 bar, so you might find that you've got more like 2:1 turndown. Whereas, you fuel injection flow rate turndown is >>100:1 (from idle through to full power) and the turndown just across the rev/power range where you want to inject water is probably at least 5:1. If you want your water to scale with "demand" (where demand is broadly equivalent to engine load, ie fuel injection quantity), then you're not going to be able to get anywhere near it with just a pump and nozzle. You end up having to over-deliver at the low end in order to maintain atomisation quality. And.....the general experience is that that's not really a problem. The only other thing you can do to sidestep this is to have multiple nozzles and stage them in. You can multiply whatever turndown range you fundamentally obtain from a single nozzle by 2, simply by having 2 such nozzles. 3 for 3 nozzles, etc. But staging them is a bit rough. It's very difficult to smoothly transition from "maxed out flow on a single nozzle" to "just above that amount, on 2 nozzles), because you have to both activate the 2nd nozzle's solenoid, and reduce the delivery pressure, simultaneously. It's not impossible, but it's far far more control system complication than anyone is really willing to put in. If you wanted to get that sophisticated, then you'd go down the pulsed injector/ECU path discussed previously.

There's probably a dance you have to do to trigger diag mode in that CU (do they still call it ATESSA in these jiggers?). You'd have to consult the manual or whatever wisdom exists amongst the Stag tragics on the net. Have a search in the appropriate forum here. Failing that, just about any decent workshop with a SnapOn et al scan tool will be able to read it.

They're only a few $$ on Aliexpress, with the slit moulded in.

A little from column A, and a little from column B. Yes, at least partially, if not mostly, because in the midrange (or at least, near peak torque) you can't wind as much timing in as you'd like. Adding a spray allows you to pretend detonation isn't a thing anymore, and you can add timing.

Yes, well this is where Joshua's preference for an injector based system makes sense. You can use the injector opening time to control flow while keeping the injection pressure high for all flows. It just hasn't been that easy (in the old days) to get injectors large enough and able to survive having water go through them. I suspect that the alcohol tolerant injectors of massive size are probably workable these days. And in an ideal world you wouldn't even use a dedicated controller and sensors. You'd just use the ECU to batch fire the water injectors based on inputs you already have, IDC and some suitable table.

So, his relevance to the GTR world is vanishingly small and it would have been better if he'd stayed the f**k away?

Codes.

Only if you get the formula right. You pretty much have to have massive view counts for the ad revenue to amount to anything you can live on. Most of them have a wide variety of side gigs hanging off the channel, selling merch, affiliate links, Patreons, channel memberships, etc, to keep sufficient money coming in to keep the wheels turning. I suspect that for many of them there's an element of Ponzi scheme going on where it will eventually come crashing down. For others, the steady need for the next thing they do to be bigger and more *gasp* worthy than the last will mean that they reach the limits of feasibility. And for others, the relentless pressure to keep putting out fresh content will eventually burn them out. Look at the million channels that Simon Whistler presents on. He must sit in that studio reading scripts like 12 hours a day to put out the content that ha puts out. He has armies of writers and researchers putting together all his content, and the adsense revenue has to pay for all of that. He's a Pom but based in Czech Republic - likely to keep costs down. I have started to see a bunch of youtubers banding together to either live in the same space or set up studios/sets in the same facility to save on costs. They do their own channels, do "guest" appearances on each others' channels, participate in long rambling podcasts where they just talk shit for an hour or two, then have special parts of the podcast that are only available to Patreons, all in an attempt to keep eyes on their channels in a 24 hour rinse cycle to keep the algorithm pushing their stuff out to the masses, in the hope of gaining more subs.

Just a caution - ATESSA switch point not necessarily same same as A-LSD switch's switch point.

Yes, but you want a very significant percentage of it evaporated before it gets to the runners anyway. Yes, well, you know what to avoid doing there, right? Doesn't take much metho in there to stop it freezing.

Probably shouldn't spend so much time reading those papers then. We've been squirting water-meth into engines with firehoses for 20 years over here. You can quite literally keep adding it until the fire is quenched and nothing goes wrong. The only thing you need to be careful of is running out.

Is that what I think it is? Is that a...... wiring diagram for a temp switched cooling fan with a relay?

It's visible in the bloody quote you made of my post containing it. If you cannot configure your web browser to use the internet properly, then that's a whole other problem.