GTSBoy

Yes, I shall refer everyone to my post on page 65 when the time comes to double the 2.5 capacity.

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The original soundsystem had a small amp hanging under the parcel shelf. Thus, the original speaker wires in the rear only go as far as that amp. The input wires to that amp came from the front of the car and that may well be the loose plug. There is absolutely no way that anyone who is not present standing at your car can help you understand that bunch of wires in your photos. It has clearly been modified away from what the original wiring was, and thus we can't know what we're looking at. You just need to put in time and effort to identify where those wires come from. Once you understand that, you can then decide on what you want to do with them. If they are good sized speaker wires that possibly came with the previous speakers and the connectors on them will suit your new speakers and you're happy to run them from whatever amplifier (ie, even just the headunit) that they're currently already connected to....then you could just reuse them. If they have been hacked and twisted together and so on, then abandon ship and start afresh.

Yeah, they're clearly machining chips. Nothing to worry about.

Welcome back. I guess use the V series section? It's got a VQ in it, no?

Potato photo makes it hard to see what the pieces actually are. But, apart from saying "perhaps the block/head wasn't cleaned out as well as it could have been after machining".....there's always some metal in the filter after a rebuild because it is impossible to clean it all out. If it looks like tiny machining chips etc, then panic not. And yes, look in the next filter. And make that change earlier than you might normally, so you get the opportunity to see what is in there sooner rather than later. Again, you probably won't expect to see anything that will frighten you. But you might, and it is better to find out earlier.

Yeah....I was convinced many years ago, by others that had a lot of varied use of them, that EBC Red/Yellow/Rainbow all have their problems. So I've never run them, so I can't speak of my own experience. But I would clearly try almost anything else before I could be convinced to try EBC! Nah. It's too thin to be visible or even really feelable. You might feel it grabbing a bit with the sandpaper at first, and ideally it will start to grab less as it comes off after a few spins. But I wouldn't even count on that. Bendix Ultimates should never be slagged on. They are actually a really good pad. They work well on the street and they hold up to some abuse. Obviously they are not a track pad for hammering on, but your own experience shows that they aren't terrible. I used them for years and only changed to Intimas (in steps) because I was working on a bias problem and wanted more pad at the front. You might consider a budget friendly track pad like the Intimas. I have the SRs on my car, which is 100% street. The car, not the pad. The pad is the Street-Race (hence the SR). The street ones are SS. They have somewhat recently released the RR, which is an 800°C pad, needing to get up to 300°C to work best, although not terrible even when cold. Peak mu is at 500°C, which is where you might be killing the EBCs. The SRs are a 600°C pad. Might be good enough. I must say though that I have slotted rotors with the SRs, and I have a pulsey pedal at the moment. I am thinking that it's my fault for sitting with foot on brake sometimes after a stop. It is driven 100% in traffic, after all. The point I ma making is that slotted rotors are supposed to help clean the pads....but they really can't do much to help clean themselves! If you can deposit muck onto a smooth rotor, I'm pretty sure you can do it on a slotted one.

Make an adapter. Draw in 3D CAD. Machine on lathe/mill. ?

If the pads are just street pads (ie, stocko BMW offering) then the shuddering is most likely to just be uneven pad material (ie binder) deposition onto the rotor. If it does it next time you're out, use some 240-300 grit paper on both faces of the rotors. Just fold it over, hand hold it and spin the rotor by the wheel studs. Then go back out and see if it feels different (ie better) than it did immediately before. And then upgrade pads to something tougher perhaps. Also to reconsider how you treat the brakes on your warmup, while lapping and on your cool down. I'm not sure of the best advice here, but maybe something about what you are doing is the cause. Going too hard without a decent warmup? Leaving the foot on the brake when stationary while they are hot (ie after you spin off!!! :D), or not using the brakes at all during the cool down, or only at the very end of the cool down. Or any of the combinations, variations and other imaginable sins that are possible. Maybe you need some cheapo brake ducting added for the track to keep temperatures under control. If you can get some temperature paint or crayons, you could check to see how hot the brakes are actually getting and if that looks acceptable or scary.

These are the cheaper end of the stronger driveshafts I mentioned. 50% stronger than stock. https://www.nengun.com/d-max/reinforced-driveshaft?srsltid=AfmBOopNJmSVvKiXvUoqd1iA6Sl6UssD06heku5ytVTGo9lN1gj8h-mG Also, when I said "Skyline chassis" above, I meant Skylines with VLSDs. Not NA cars with 3x2 stubs.

A helical (ie, S15) diff would not be a good choice for drifting. The helicals are a great street diff, but they do have some odd characteristics that make them less suited than a proper clutch diff. If you get one wheel up in the air with a helical, it will act 100% as if it was an open diff and freely spin the airborne wheel. No drive at all. Drifting is rough enough and you're going to hit kerbs often enough that this is a joy killer. Additionally, helicals are not pure magic. They work by jamming in the internal helical gears into the housing, and they do wear there. All the S15 diffs are approaching 25 years old now and they are all worn. So many of us that have them observe that there can be some delay and apparent slop in the way they engage and take up drive. I've just spent a bunch of money putting mine back into my car and am somewhat wishing that I hadn't. I should have just ponied up, worked out what it would take to get a Quaife into it, plus a new CW&P from Neat. So, the GT Pro is by far the best option for you. There is still no need to change to 5 bolt driveshafts. The increase in strength from the tripods you have to the proper CVs is not going to be large enough to justify the effort and expense in finding drivehafts and appropriate stub axles. Although, having said that, I think when you buy a Nismo diff they come with the necessary stubs. But this is complicated because: Standard viscous LSDs have one long and one short spline, which doesn't work with the mech diffs, so they have to supply stubs. Open diffs have, I think, spline lengths on their stubs that actually work with the mech diffs. So I'm not sure if they do supply stubs with the centre when you buy a centre to upgrade an open diff (as opposed to buying a centre to upgrade a VLSD). Note that the Nismo kits for different diff types all have different part numbers because they know the differences between the various diffs. If you buy a Nismo diff for an S-chassis 3x2 VLSD you will get 3x2 stub axless with it, and if you buy for a Skyline chassis you get 5 bolt stub axles. So you need to make sure everyone involved understands what you are doing and what bits you are working with before you drop your coupla grand. Otherwise we get a bitch thread next. Following on from all that - if you need stronger driveshafts, and at that power level you may well need them, because drifting is anything but kind to them - then I'd be looking to buy actual upgrades, as I first mentioned. And they are universal so they will work with either type of stub axle.

Make yourself a stethoscope from a piece of garden hose and use it to localise the sound. Stick one end in your ear and poke the other around. Where it is loudest is most likely where it is from.

FWIW, the tripod CVs in the 3x2 bolt axles are fine for typical road power levels. Like, probably up to 300rwkW. Maybe more. There's plenty of S chassis cars running that much power on them. They're certainly not as good as the 5 bolt ones, but they're not crap either. I wouldn't go changing all that stuff for no good reason. There are completely aftermarket driveshafts available that will bolt to both the 3x2 and the 5 bolt stubs, that are much thicker with very good CVs on them. I would be buying those if I trashed what I have now.

You might want to look at Frenchie's AC kits.

On RB26 with ceramic twins, certainly. On single turbo RBs, almost certainly not. Very rare.

Well, it's red, so it's almost certainly PS fluid. Degrease it all off and inspect after a drive. If you see nothing, do more driving then look again. And get yourself a mirror on a stick and/or a snake cam, so you can look in under/behind things.

Hope that gets forgotten. Dogs are worse than kids. I used to have a gardening encyclopaedia that listed both children and dogs under the section on garden pests. I include inside the house as part of the garden now.

This. Shaft play is not "broken". Turbine in thousands of crumbs in your cat converter. That's broken. It will explode suddenly and you will immediately lose all boost and any hope of ever making boost again. It can happen today, it can happen tomorrow. It might take another 5 years. It can happen at 10 psi, at 12 psi, at 17 psi. Mine blew as it came on boost so it wouldn't have even spooled all the way up and was probably only making 5 psi at the instant it let go. Yes. I drive it hard regularly. Most miles are done commuting, but it gets the arse hung out on every roundabout, every on ramp and no wanker in a Commodore is allowed to win at the lights.

Anything with a stock turbo is not "quite modified". It is basically stock. You're describing essentially what my car is. Doesn't matter what exhaust, intercooler, injectors, AFM, coils, etc etc you have. The stock turbo is good for about 200 rwkW at best, and that is not "quite modified". And.....your stock turbo can and probably will blow up even at 12 psi. I ran mine at 12 psi for....probably 10 years, maybe more. Then one day it exploded the turbine. There are many other examples of the same, and many examples of them dying even without ever having been turned up. Some died when nearly new. Others died only after protracted abuse. I even ran my RB20 stocker at 17 psi for a while (without realising that that was why it was so fast) because of a little problem with my boost controller. It was fine (and luckily, apart from the risk of the turbine exploding, the engine could take it because I had fuelling and tuning to suit). But it might have died on the first occasion. Your turbo is now 25 years old. It is on borrowed time regardless of what you want. It will die at some point. Just be prepared to put a new turbo on it. I'd been waiting for a decade for mine to go when it finally did. Do not run your turbo at 15 psi though. It can probably take it spinning up there briefly, if that's only a brief thing until the controller gets control. But extended operation at that speed will kill it. But remember what I said above - it is a lottery. And also, there is no way that a boost controller should be allowing the stock turbo to run well over your boost target. Not a good boost controller anyway. I have a million year old Profec and it will hold 9, or 10, or 12, or 14, or whatever I ask it to.

Well....no. But yes. But no. First up, let's ask what you yourself specifically mean by "overboosting"? Because there is "overboosting" and there is "overboosting". If the boost pressure exceeds the maximum value that you want to run, then technically that's overboosting. But even the very best boost controller will still exceed that maximum, even if only by a little bit. And fancy PID control actually even fully expects an overshoot of the target while attempting to achieve it. The images on the left, particularly the bottom one, show what PID control typically looks like with some overshoot. But, if you are not talking about a proper electronic boost controller, and instead are talking about some simple boost tee style thing (which is really just a spring based pressure relief/regulator type thing) then....they can be either pretty good or pretty bad. The pretty bad ones can have terrible control and allow either quite large overshoot on the way to achieving target, or they might even allow the boost to creep way up over target towards the end of a pull, well, after the initial achievement of target. Even a fancy electronic boost controller might not be able to prevent overboost, by which I mean the longer term creep way above the target, if the exhaust and/or boost control mechanisms (the actuator and the wastegate) are not capable to actually giving you the control. In your case.... You're pretty stock right? There's no situation where you should find yourself with problematic overboost. Even a shitty boost controller shouldn't cause you troubles. it might "overboost", but that shouldn't be a major issue. Except of course, if you're running without a tuned/tuneable ECU. In which case.... you've probably already been told to stop f**king with it until you do have.

It can get worse. Mine are both 20+.

Might have too few posts in your count. I think there's a rule about that.

Well....seeing as the R33 RB25 ECU is a piece of shit with more aggressive R&R behaviours than the R32's ECU, and you can Nistune an R32 ECU and can't Nistune an R33 ECU....I can't see why anyone would even want to run a 20 with a 25 ECU. And then, once you get past that, the stock maps in the 25 ECU won't be well matched to what the RB20 wants, so it will not run nicely. You would be 1000% better off running it on a homebuilt programmable ECU.

Well, it's not true. The are differences between S1 and S2 R33 RB25DET looms, let alone between R33 and R32. The differences that you need to take into account are where the engine loom butts up against the body loom. Things like the alternator wiring, main power supplies from the fuse box, etc. Even the details around exactly how the ECCS relay and fuel pump wiring at the ECU location are a little different.

Blast! I thought I correct that now/know typo before I posted!