GTSBoy

Here you go. Look familiar?

Are you wanting someone to draw a circuit diagram for you?

Not initially, and also not ultimately. If the HICAS tie rod ends are in good condition, then the HICAS rack itself can serve exactly the same function as a lock bar. All that is required on an R32 to kill HICAS is to pull the smaller of the two loom plugs out the back of the HICAS CU. Stops working, no dash light (probably because the dash light wire is on that connector!!). The HICAS CU will lock the rack under a fault condition, meaning that it is "fail safe".....for a given definition of failsafe. I just happened to find a loophole (the small loom plug) that allowed me to exploit the design. Later, I swapped the original HICAS rear subframe out for an A31 subframe with no HICAS. This is basically equivalent to fitting a complete HICAS eliminator kit (as opposed to just a lock bar). Lock bars keep the HICAS tie rods and they must be in good condition (ie the rod ends not worn). Eliminators can and should replace the original tie rods and the rod ends, replacing them with the sort of bushing that is used on the non-HICAS cars anyway. I just skipped all that aftermarket crap and went to an OEM Nissan solution to the same effect, that also happens to look completely factory, so that there are no obvious "steering system modifications", which would trigger raised eyebrows on a roadworthiness check. My car was going to have to go over the pits at Regency as part of the engine transplant that was happenign at the same time, and it sailed over without a word said. A lockbar or eliminator kit would possibly have got me in trouble. There is no "fluid" iin R33 HICAS. This was the next generation of HICAS where the rack was electrically actuated.

Yes, as part of a system that was designed around having that fan. On RB engined cars, the radiator was sized around the air flow that could be pulled by the engine driven fan, which is an enormous number compared to what you can pull with even the best electric fans. So, your experience is that it works. But when you present it with a challenge, such as idling in a traffic jam at 45°C ambient air T, 50+°C road temperature (which is a common event where I drive mine) then you will likely find that the electric fan version will suffer a lot earlier than the engine fan one will. And that is why there are only a couple of 14" electric fans that people say are acceptable, because these are the only ones that have managed to get close to the performance of the stock setup, with all others found to be not-as-good(TM).

Just do it.

Coolant over 110°C is starting to get serious. Oil temp over 130 is a no no. Over 120 (oil) you really shouldn't be leaning on it at all.

HICAS didn't look great by the time the cars were only 10 years old. It was already the butt of jokes about cars trying to kill people. I had to "fix" my HICAS upon commencement of ownership in 1999. That's only 10 years from first R32 release, 6 years from manufacture of my car. Bastard thing was dangerous. Wasn't worn out, just had a (deranged) mind of its own at anything above 7/10ths. And that's ignoring the occasional outright panic mode where it liked to crank the rear wheels to full lock at 80km/h. Just not enough processing power, algorithmic development and designed experience (in terms of what actions are actually required, and what actions are definitely not required) at that point in time to create a system that was actually going to do what was on the wish list.

It's only once the engine is hot that the fan's clutch starts to lock and drive the fan. Sure, before that it spins, but it's much slower than the engine. So, fan related noises do become much more apparent as the engine warms up. Neos have solid lifters, so if they do ever wear (which is rare, but could happen as a result of poor oil change history, etc) then they get noisy. The cams lobes slap down on them like a pimp hand.

Wow. 3 decent videos of the actual noise! That's a rarity on here these days. A few points. It's not the injectors. Or, if it is, then there is something really badly wrong! The 1st video's noise is from the front of the motor and it sounds like it is cam/lifter related. But.... The 2nd video shows a lot of mechanical noise from the rear of the head. Louder and deeper than the noise from the front, and.... The 3rd video makes me think of a cable tie being slapped by the engine fan. So maybe the higher pitched ticking at the front is a furphy and you should look for something stupid, like a misplaced cable tie tail. The noise from the rear sounds concerning. 'twere I you, I would be using a long screwdriver as a solid stethoscope to try to locate where on the cam cover the noise is loudest. At the very least, a piece of garden hose works as a decent stethoscope to localise the source of the noise.

Reduces understeer. Remember, these are the same guys who came up with HICAS. It wasn't about making the best driver's car. It was about making something that sounded sporty and worked with very sub-optimal drivers.

Yes, eBay. Have had for a few years now, so the listings are not the same. I would suggest that most of these would be sufficiently close to the same thing that it wouldn't really matter. https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=wifi+inspection+camera&_sacat=0 This one though, appears to be the same one I bought. I got one with a 2m cable, for compactness, because I carry it all around the world, but you can also get 1, 5 & 10m lengths. The longer lengths are not useful without taping it onto a stick if you need rigidity, and not steerable if you need to control it inside something, but still might be desireable for some. But 2m seems like the best option to me. I only paid ~$25 for the 2m back then. Looks like prices have, understandably, crept up since. I did "guess" quite well at $30 in my first post above though! https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/363941200352?hash=item54bc9601e0:g:zqAAAOSwDUpi5TcL&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsInvOgSeC%2FpzavmgsvfJjNJTNrIf1ZyW7EYIwG76Nfg3x4%2BKp1rYUt%2B3pIBPmvkZjm4OmBvjomQngDzTt1odFGXBk5JMHPSKgfEbZnU7vgu19BjYqHS9PlctnhLwkn3XyePoBjvVT5I2BoAuocIUB7isNXWIhTuW2161XJ5uO%2Bz6KujjZUBq%2Bh4%2B2G7DOke3o13w56ZqkZFPpF071P0p6sGQbfRo4ghPHK06Lf7Sw2Zo|tkp%3ABk9SR4y0qOj9YA

Yes, that's the primary input to seed the random number generator they use to decide the clutch actuator pressure in the diff.

Not true. I'm not talking about those shitty all-in-one borescope things. I'm talking the ones that connect to an app on your phone. Quite good resolution. I use one regularly for inspecting the insides of industrial equipment. They are cheap, cheerful and I wouldn't be without one.

What do you mean by "optimised"? Are you talking about just getting the carbies set up and tuned nicely, or are you talking about a high comp rebuild with porting and a cam? The thing to remember is that the L20 is a very small NA 6 cylinder that can't muster a lot of torque. if you work it, you will be able to make a nice bit of extra power, but it will all be up high in the rev range and there will be even less torque down low (because of fat cam lower gas velocities through bigger ports). If you want to make a screamer, then yeah, work it, put a good set of pipes on it, tune it up, etc. But if you want to make a nice street engine then more capacity will always be the first option. If your question is just about choosing between just tuning the carbies up or going for a bigger motor (which is not a very sensible question) then...... it will clearly cost a lot less to get the carbies done, and the result will be much nicer, but not in any way comparable to an upsized engine.

USB/WIFI inspection camera is only $30 on eBay. Just sayin'.

Hmm. Yes, well, the GTX3582 would have been the recco prior to G series, and now I would have thought that either of the G30 or 35 900s would have done the job for what you're after. So I agree with your choice space. I tend to think that the G35 is probably worth a go, with the smallest rear housing that will reach the goal. I should probably let others speak to that. If response is important, then you will likely prefer the twin scroll option over the V band options, although I** worry that the TS 0.85 rear will limit the 500kW target. **Perhaps needlessly, again, wait for others to weigh in.

iIf Exedy supply it, then they trust it, so it's probably perfectly fine. But, If they're dimensionally the same, I'd lean toward the Nissan one, just from automatic racist anti-chinese unknown brand prejudice against the NIS one.

Looks like it might have been set up to run a gearbox oil cooler. Which is probably not a good sign, as it probably had a hard life. At least the owner cared enough to do it, I suppose.

They probably expected all GTRs to be drifted into trees and telephone poles before needing a transfer case oil change.

No. Not necessarily. Duncan told you that already.... My underline and bold emphases. Just substitute ATTESSA for A-LSD in your case. But, if perchance your A-LSD was not functioning properly because of this failed sensor, then it is a prime opportunity to fling the smelly piece of crap in the bin (the whole A-LSD system) and replace with a diff that actually works properly.

Unless they're bent enough to rub on the bore, which usually doesn't happen because bends that large usually increase the crankcase ventilation quite a lot.

f**k. You're a madman. When you said "dash" I thought you just meant the cluster. This is a whole 'nother level of unnecessary f**kery. Good luck.

Must haves some altered mounts to be able to sit an RB on it.

Yeah, I would have said "bottomed out except with 1-2mm left to go, so the grease has a chance to push it out when you go ghetto hydraulic on it".

See, it's nuggets of info like this, delivered deep into these threads that are always so infuriating. Freshly charged battery. Comp test it. Drain old suspicious fuel. Pump new fuel through the fuel rail and drain it off. Old fuel goes in the lawnmower. Remove crossover pipe to TB. Spray ether in there through opened thottle plate. Then crank immediately. None of this "sprayed it in the intake", which I presume is pre-turbo.