GTSBoy

Just to be clear.....none of that audio shit mounted in the dash is OEM right? It's all aftermarket Jap? In which case, if there is a tool for removing the headunit, it will be Pioneer specific. Some little thing made out of 2mm thick flat sheet with 2 prongs on it or something, to push in and release the tangs. Would only be accessible after you've removed the fascia trim from it. Same with the Panasonic things. Just work out how to prise that trim off from around the shifter and up the dash. Probably some screws hidden in the ash tray, and the rest of it is just clipped in and you break the clips off with a small flat blade screwdriver and then swear a lot.

So, capable of more flow. If needed. Which usually is not the case.

Average over what? Time? Rev range? Ignoring the dictates of the thermostat? Exactly what do you mean?

There is no N1 pump in the above flowrates. Only 2x Reimax high flow pumps and mention of a "stocker".

Plus a couple of other factors..... the Nismo 2-way is still pretty miserable to live with on the street. The Nismo Pro is a much better option - you can adjust it somewhat. I would defo prefer a Quaife in the front. Almost certainly prefer a Quaife in the rear. The only time a helical will let you down is when you prop a wheel up in the air. Are you going to twist a GTR chassis enough for that in a drag race?

You actually listen to the radio?

Yes, there are cable ties on mine too, to assuage my paranoia.

I call bullshit. On a 3mm straight steel pipe (unbarbed) with rubber or silicone hose pushed on more than ~15mm you wouldn't be able to expand the hose and apply enough force to get it to pop off the pipe with anything like the boost pressures available on a petrol engine. Sure, use a hose clamp if it assuages your paranoia, but in reality it is absolutely unnecessary. That's why the OEM Nissan hose for the wastegate, the FPR, etc, have nonesuch. (And, yes, I realise it's only 0.5bar in most of those applications, but the reality extends waaaay up past 3 bar). Small hose? Slightly too small? Spit on it, push it on, let the spit dry, forget your problems. Especially when we're talking small bore SILICONE hose, which is about a billionty times more forgiving of such abuse than nitrile. Remember, it took 25 years for your OEM Nissan rubber hoses to get old and die. The car we're talking about here will not even be able to be fuelled in another 20 years. If you do manage to find your own supply of ethanol, you'll have to put in an application in triplicate to the ecoNazi department of your local government for a permit to be able to take it out on the road without computer self-drive and you'll have to sign up to 150 hours of community labour to pay off the CO2 emissions penalty from your voluntary environmental vandalism. So there's no need to worry about this hose sneaking up on you and ruining your life/engine in the meantime.

Just spit on it.

Just for clarity - I'm talking the whole engine. Not their TBs.

Don't install the MAC valve until you need it. The stock ECU wants the original boost control solenoid. It is possible to make the MAC do its job, but that's a f**karound that you'd just have to undo. The stock boost control plumbing schema is readily visible in the factory service manual, which is easily downloaded. It picks up a boost signal from the plenum (I think, it's definitely upstream the throttles, anyway) and sends the boost signal on to the wastegate actuators. The MAC valve plumbing is very simple. Boost reference from the same pre-throttle location as the original. One of the other ports is the outlet to the wastegates. The other is the vent. The MAC valve is just a 3 way valve that has one common port that is switched back and forth between the other two ports when it is energised/de-energised. There is a diagram on the side of the valve that shows you this. The boost source goes onto the common port. The wastegates are connected to the port that is fed from the common when the solenoid is not energised. The other port is the vent and should be connected back to the pre-turbo, filtered inlet duct (ie, after the AFM(s).) There are literally dozens, if not hundreds of threads on here with diagrams. But the words above should be sufficient.

Yup. LS3. Or maybe VK56.

What do you mean "converted with hemi heads"? Let's make a few points. I'll presume you do not mean "hemi" as in "Hemi"....ie Chrysler heads. That's what a lot of people would mean when they say "hemi heads". I know and totally understand that the concept of hemi heads is much wider than that. Example such as ALFA twin cams going back to the 50s spring to mind, amongst hundreds of others. Are you aware that there's not really any such thing as a 4 valve hemi combustion chamber? Have you ever seen one? There isn't room to fit 4 valves in. That is is why 4 valve heads are all pentroof design (or some variation thereof). 4 valves provide more valve/port area than 2 valve heads do, which is why they exist. Going backwards from 4 valve pentroof, to hemi 2 valve seems.....backwards.

Water flow rate is controlled by the thermostat. So, despite the higher maximum capacity of the pump, the actual operating capacity will be whatever the flowrate that is required to achieve the cooling determined by the water temp at the thermostat. Pump power is proportional to both mass flow rate and pressure rise. Assuming that the pump ends up making a bit more head against the restriction caused by the thermostat, then the power rise will only be because of that additional (wasted) pressure and not from any extra flow.

So..... nothing outrageous then. Just use the RB25DET trans.

Didn't happen. Would have been bullshit signal from CAS interpreted by ECU as much more revs than was actually happening. 13500 is just so totally implausible as to be beneath consideration. As to the ECU....not sure. There are definitely ECU driven devices and sensors on the turbo that are not on the 20. Traction control and its position sensor, boost sensor (yes, for the ECU, not for the dash) and teh boost control solenoid are the obvious ones. So it is possible that the ECU plug is the same plug, but it is also possible that it is not. And if it is the same, there is no guarantee that the pin assignments for all the other stuff are the same. 'Twere I you, I would get the wiring diagrams for them both and just compare. The manuals are out there.

The test light is to automotive electrical diagnosis as tapping on the chest is to working out what is going on in the lungs of a patient. It was fine, 100 years ago, when that was all they had. Now, we have actual tools for this job. Using a test light in this context requires actual thought. I think I concur with Josh's opinion above. The wire that lead to the relay clicking on is the hot one. That's why the relay clicked on when you earthed it through the test light. You made enough current flow through it to pull it in. Therefore, obviously enough, the other side of the pressure switch will go to the ECU and provide the two steps required to make the AC come on. Those being sufficient charge pressure, and the ECU asking for it.

8 cylinders all right

The thread is nearly 20 years old..... Of course linked photos will be dead. Jeeezus. Besides which, the Z32 is dead. Why would anyone contemplate using one, when the card style AFMs are infinitely better?

Ha! I just realised my mistake. Was defo thinking D2S, not R.

Well.....yeah. I mean, the xenons clearly use HID projectors (of which D2R is a specific type, and I don't know if that is the type in the S2 headlights) and the non-xenon headlight obviously use halogen bulbs, and it is reasonably likely that they use H1....but they could also be H3 or H3C or maybe even H7. Again, in this particular case, I don't know exactly which one they use. The R32s, for example, have used multiple types, H1 and H3, over the years. There shouldn't be any confusion for you between what main type of light source is used in the two types. One is Xenon (HID) and the other is halogen. It only comes down to exactly which bulb type is used in each, which should be easily findable (for the halogen) and hardly matter for the HIDs. If you're going to make custom lights, you're not going to want to pay the money for HIDs and then gut them. Surely you're most likely to start with plain jane ones.

CAS wiring/pins might be shaky. CAS disc might be dirty. CAS bearing might be shitty. AFM wiring/pins ditto. AFM element ditto. Less likely than CAS to cause shaky idle, but still possible.

Budget? <$100? <$1000? Each? Per pair? Coaxial two way? Two way splits? 3 way? Willing to rebuild the door cards? Want to not make any extra holes?

Nah. Only need it if the ECU wants it. Non-Neo has no care.

So don't use an S13 one. The geometry is the same old anti-squat shit that the R32 GTR subframe has. Better off with an R33 non-HICAS, or S14. Then you can use the 2 bolt diff cover with ABS sensor mounts. Or....you could just put some effort into making some sensor mounts for the 4 bolt diff cover S13 version. Hang something off the main cover bolts. Bit of bracing to make it rigid, some hot melt metal wire here and there.