GTSBoy

Yeah, they might be. But these NA things fall into the region below my ability to retain information.

And, just in case this is a Neo - there is an ECU controlled purge solenoid to determined when vacuum is allowed to be passed to the canister, so it won't purge at times when the ECU doesn't want it to.

Yeah, he's letting the side down.

All Nissan manuals are notchy and nasty compared to the various nice manuals that are out there. Everything from 180Bs, through Stanzas, Bluebirds, all the various RB gearboxes.... all notchy. I don't like them. The various Celica boxes and the bigger Toyota boxes from the same era are all much better shifting.

Le sigh. Point 1. You are right now communicating on pretty much the oldest and wisest Skyline forum in the world. Much knowledge was first disseminated here, before drifting out into the UK and US-centric forums. We know what is possible. We've been doing it for nearly 30 years. Point 2. Of course the sources who want to sell you stuff will tell you that the stuff works miracles. And as you have been told already, it is trivial to adjust some dyno settings (or just hang the ambient air temperature sensor above the exhaust manifold!!) to get an artificially high power reading. And that's before you take into account the fact that your typical US dyno is calibrated to read horsepower from horses the size of large dogs. Point 3. There is NO WAY you are getting 40+kW extra from a tune alone, on an already high strung NA engine. Not without something else added to the mix. That something else is not an exhaust or intake either, as these are only worth a handful of kW. I;m talking dyno fudgery, rocket fuel of some sort, or E85 plus a stupid amount of timing (stupid to the extent of being bad for the engine even if it isn;t knocking). You need to stop this argument, because you are wrong.

It's funny you should say that. I find the CD009 to be even more nasty than all previous nasty Nissan gearboxes. I would definitely go a T56 or Tremec of some other flavour if I was going to put the effort into a conversion. Notwithstanding that, if stuck with a CD009, then the 6 gears are better applied to a slightly taller diff ratio, to a similar effect. Put a 3.69 or something in there after the 0.79 6th and win.

I'd like a 6th gear for driving at 100+ on highway.

Yeah, but it's only a bit of a massage around the outside edges of the MAF based load-TP calc anyway. In this particular instance, unless he put a simply massive TB on there, the factory mapping should be fine to handle it.

Or, failing that, probe the state of the switch at the ECU.

These are visible in the ECU via Consult.

Transient throttle shouldn't cause any problems on a MAF based ECU. Are we still stock ECU here? The only real problem you can see from a larger TB (on stock MAF setup) is if the TB is simply too f**king large. Then even just a tiny amount of opening is too much for "just off idle" and it will always be a piece of crap to drive. Joshua's mention of the TPS setting for throttle closed is a good one.

Nah, there's no such info out there.

Alright then.....broken wire. Grab the wiring diagram and follow the wires. You'll find it.

Corroded door switch.

That has little to do with the "Mine's knock control strategy", such as it is, so much as it is typical for old Nissan Knock sensors to be non-functional. "Mine's may well just copy paste the normal ignition map onto the knock map (which is typical stupid 90s styleeez), or they might actually have a few degrees taken out. But if the knock sensor doesn't hear anything, the ECU doesn't do anything. I have deliberately provoked knock on both an RB20 and a 25Neo and not seen the ECU do shit.

Yes. If buying (coilover) suspension these days, it is foolish to do anything other than buy MCA or Shockworks (Shockworx?) in Australia. Properly specc'd, quality controlled, locally dev'd & supported. A better decision than random D shift stuff out of Taiwan or China.

Yes

Always do it on a level surface. The same level surface. The place where it was parked at the shops only has to be 1° sloping left, and the place at home 1° sloping right, to have a noticeable effect. Any more angle than that just compounds the deviation.

And don't bother trying to source bearings, seals and crush washers yourself.** That's what the diff shop is for. **Not that it's hard. Nearly everything you want is available at JustJap anyway. And the other usual suspects.

Here's a whole bunch of snowflakes. They're all different. https://www.google.com.au/search?q=snowflake+emoji&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiv7rKM2Jv6AhUj_zgGHQI5BLgQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=snowflake+emoji&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQAzIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQyBQgAEIAEMgUIABCABDIFCAAQgAQ6BAgAEEM6BggAEB4QB1DFCFigHWC1IGgAcAB4AIAByQKIAYIOkgEIMC4xMC4wLjGYAQCgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZ8ABAQ&sclient=img&ei=zqolY6_PG6P-4-EPgvKQwAs&bih=844&biw=1659

The zombie

The e-penis :dildo:

f**king wow! Good reaction time there C.

RE003 are made from polymerised horse piss and should never be discussed in context with real tyres. RS4 are good. I'm still not convinced that they are anywhere near as pleasant to live with as AD08R. And so I will be going AD09 at the next opportunity.

Copy-paste of reply to PM. The loom that contains the power wire for the O2 sensor also carries the PS wiring and when the power wire melted and burnt, it took out a couple of other wires in that loom, including the PS wiring. So, I just repaired the broken wires. Had to split the loom open and do a bit of surgery on a few wires.