GTSBoy

Or.....take it to a decent Mongoose installer and see if they have a backdoor fix?

Fixed on FF.

Street only.

Should go on. The only question is whether the GT front brakes take a 14mm bolt (like those GT-T brakes you have there) or a 12mm bolt like all the other brakes that came before. If your original brakes are 12mm, then your options are; Drill the bolt holes on the uprights to take the 14mm bolts (easy enough, done with care, but not easily reversible). IF GT calipers have the same style of knurled inserts with the female thread in them that the GT-T calipers have, then knock them out of each set of calipers and swap the 12mm threaded ones into the GT-T calipers. BUT.....I wouldn't expect this to be a thing. It would be a thing is you were dealing with some other set of Sumitomo Skyline 4 pots. I know, because I've done it. But the nasty calipers on the GT are probably provided with threads in a different manner.

I only have <200rwkW and the R32** has poor longitudinal traction with anything less than this sort of tyre. Additionally, the way I drive is same-speed-all-the-time. I get 100000km out of a set of brake pads, but I kill tyres every 10000km. I need the lateral grip provided by the ~200tw tyres so I can treat all corners as if they are part of the straight. ** Stupid anti-squat geo is next on my list to kill.

There's already at least 1 thread on here on the topic. Have a search for it. They might have been talking about it in the ZF 8HP thread too.

You can bolt a vanilla 25 head onto a Neo block. But.... The Neo chambers are ~10cc smaller than the vanillas. With almost the same comp ratio, that means that the piston crowns are a lot lower on the Neo. Thus, Neo head on vanilla block makes for a low comp piece of shit. You then need to go to a lot of effort with pistons and rods to get the comp back. The VCT oil drain thing. And, lots of other little annoyances. Want to bolt the vanilla inlet manifold to the Neo? Can be done, but the port match is not the same. (I'm reasonably sure of that, but perhaps check). If so, then choosing between the Neo manifold and the vanilla manifold starts to impact on ECU peripherals, like the IACV. Again, not insurmountable - just shit you have to take care of to make it work (unless aftermarket ECU, in which case, it makes little difference).

Why a new thread? You already have threads for this.

No such thing. Only from a wreck, would be my guess.

Yup. Inner and outer rubber strips on the top of the door panel. Door/window rubbers on the door opening in the body. Door rubbers around the bottom of the door. All easy enough. As to whether I can help you - it will depend on when you're ready. I have spent 16 of the last 20 months 2600km away from home, with no real end in sight. Maybe I'll be kicked off site by Dec31. I wouldn't expect the rubbers to have changed between S1 and S2. Things like door openings are never changed in facelift revisions if they can avoid it. Too expensive. They just change plastic bits that make the car look different.

So.....what turbo are you bolting it onto? Stock? Then there will be no cause for concern. The problem reported by zoomzoom is only on a significantly larger turbo with a much bigger wastegate flap. The chances of you finding yourself in this position are slim. 90+% of all turbo upgrade options you might pursue will require a different dump pipe anyway. Furthermore, should you find yourself in that position, it is not exactly rocket science to do mods to a dump pipe. Any half decent workshop would be able to cut and shut as required.

Only for insufficiently large values of 1.

Is not the need for a new balancer a justification for buying an aftermarket goodun', rather than a stocker?

You do not have to run "rated" power with any turbo. But otherwise, what has been said above by Muzz is also true.

Just get a cheapy full length dump from JustJap or similar. You're not going to make an extra million HP either way. They are seriously fine.

Have you considered taking the door trim off and having a look for yourself?

Depends which G30 you buy. How much do you want? The largest is rated to 900 engine HP. You might be happier with something capable of only 660 HP (the smallest G30) and make anything up to that much. You will want to ditch the injectors, even though they are "large enough", because highflows are AIDS, and there is no reason to cheap out and risk an engine these days. Good injectors are only ~$100 each these days.

Sell twins. Sell single. Buy G30 + decent manifold and gate. Boost off into the sunset.

Probably need to properly clean the IACV. If it is dirty and sticky it can be slow to catch the idle on the way down from a rev.

Yes, they are without value. Give them to your mate.

This seems like a prep for a spam run. But on the presumption that it is not, first I will ask why you did not just google your question, as the answer is readily findable. And secondly - the heat range is 22. The 07 and the 11 are the gap, in tenths of a millimetre and have nothing to do with the heat range.

Germaine Greer quote of the day.gif

This ^. There are datum points on both the engine and the cover (ie, the mounting bolt holes) from which you can measure to find the centreline of the camshaft (on the engine) and just transfer that to the cover. It's a little harder because it's in 3 dimensions, but essentially the same as using a compass to draw two arcs from two centres to find the only common intersection point.

No. That is the exact opposite of what I told you in my first reply. The ECU knows almost nothing about what is on the dash. The only stuff that comes from the ECU to the dash is the tacho, and the engine warning light.

Um. back up a second. The illumination + and - terminals on the dash itself should have continuity between them. They are either side of the lamps. The illumination works by a switch, somewhere else (well, actually, it's obvious where it is, it's the headlight switch), provides either power or earth, depending on which way it is switched. I'm not going to go find an R33 wiring diagram to check. You can do that. VSS is the vehicle speed sensor. You can't really check that. It's one wire up from the speed sensor and then the VSS signal out to the ECU and other CUs that use it. The speed sensor on the gearbox produces a +/-1V AC (sawtooth) waveform that varies frequency (and magnitude) with vehicle speed, and the speedo in the dash converts that to a 0-5V square wave (PWM) signal (the VSS) that varies pulsewidth with speed. The illumination should not interfere with the gauges. But, my experience on these forums is that these faults are always caused by something completely stupid and unexpected.