GTSBoy

For the rebirthing, babee!

Caldina without the Toyota reliability? No thanks. No thanks to almost any post-Renault Nissan anyway.

I'm sitting here, trying to work out how the living f**k you can parley a ~$10k purchase of a GTR ~5 years ago into It just beggars belief. You won the f**king lottery and you're complaining about it?

For an R32, JustJap, Kudos, et al.

This thread played out.

That is the correct price.

No. Absolutely not. The ECU needs to know if the auto trans is trying to stall the engine, which it is, when it is not in N (or P, which is the same thing). The idle control relies on it.

And yet....you still bought the car?

Here's an RP71C #2 (photo taken from this very site) showing an electronic speed sender. http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i30/0t1/more/IMG_0296.jpg I'm not at all sure what that 3pin connector is all about - unless it is the wiring for the reverse and neutral switches brought together. It's certainly not the usual connector for the speed sensor. Anyway - I'm pretty sure that the R31a used a mechanical speedo drive, and this gearbox, being an R33 turbo box (the best thing to have, by the way) usually has an electronic speed sender, as in the image above. So - you cannot make it work without building a mechanical speedo drive. You will need the speedo drive from a Navara from the same period to do this. I think you have to use the gear from your electronic drive to get the right ratio (Navara being different). There are howtos on here and elsewhere on the net, although I've never actually seen one as I didn't have to do mine - my bro'-in-law built the drive for me.

That's not what HICAS is for. It isn't intended to make tighter turning radius in low speed corners. That was what the other shitty Japanese 4WS steering systems on the Mazda MX-6 and Honda Prelude were for, because in the 80s FWD chassis designers hadn't worked out how to give medium-large FWD cars a decent turning circle. In fact, the turning circle on pretty much all FWD cars sucked balls up until the mid 90s. These types of systems counter steered the rear wheels to improve the turning circle. HICAS DOES NOT COUNTER STEER. HICAS was intended by Nissan to improve the turn in response of "sporty" cars that were actually just pleb grade chassis with a GT/coupe body on top. There's little difference between an R chassis, an A chassis, an S chassis, or most of the other Nissan RWD offerings of the time. Even the V chassis is only an evolution of the same mass produced old shit. So, the chassis is not necessarily that "sporting". But the cars that had HICAS ladelled onto them were marketed as sporty, so they had to try to make them as sporty as possible without making them too harsh and jittery. If you were to improve the turn in without resorting to 4WS, you would simply improve the geometry a little, increase ARB stiffness, damper tuning and so on, but all of these things make the car ride more harshly and can be scary to normal plebian drivers, particularly in the wet. So, what HICAS does is induce a moment of in-phase steering as you turn into a corner. It does this because tyres only start to create a turning force against the road when there is a slip angle between the direction the tyre is pointing and the direction that it is actually travelling along the road. At the front, this is achieved by turning the wheel. You turn the front wheels to point a different direction to the direction that the car is travelling, then the slip angle exists, and then the tyre starts generating a turning force. That then starts to rotate the car, and it is only after the car starts to rotate around its axis that the rear tyres start to have a slip angle and start generating a turning force. The rear tyres are totally slaved to the rest of the car. There is a delay. HICAS instead causes the rear tyres to have a slip angle immediately and start generating a turning force immediately, causing the rear of the car to start to rotate in the desired direction much earlier in the process. This is experienced as improved turn in - the rear end feels more "alive" and "sporty" and any other such terms you like to apply. The trouble is that the computer only knows a few things. It only has a steering angle input from the steering wheel sensor and a speed sensor, and bugger all else. No lateral G sensor, nothing else. So it has no bloody idea exactly how you're driving the car. And the computer is a bloody simple and stupid device with a simple program that says if X then Y - pretty much. And that program is only good up to about 7/10ths driving. After that, when you're pushing the car hard through a turn, the last thing you want is the 4WS computer interpreting your repeated steering inputs (as you fight understeer, etc) as new corner entries and to keep changing the angle of the rear wheels. HICAS is simply the best way to fling your car off the corner in reverse when you're really going for it. It sucks. It just sucks.

Nissan's HICAS, and all other 4WS steer systems until the very most recent ones (last 10 years, Porsche, etc), are all...... crap. utter crap. A good idea that didn't work properly. Hence, we piss them off. The cars are more predictable without a 3-brain-cell computer sawing away at the back wheels while you're trying to balance the car on the limit of longitudinal and lateral traction.

The drains are out the ends of the plenum into the back end of the front guards.

Absolutely. Clutch switch too.

If it's not just blocked plenum drains, then it's windscreen frame rust. There's nowhere else for water to come from. Wet driver's side is usually clutch master leaking out the back. But if you're sure it's water, see above.

There is no "in gear" signal. If you correctly wire up the original auto neutral switch input to the manual's neutral switch, the ECU works properly. Incorrectly (ie, not) wiring the neutral switch is not assumed (by me) to be something that would happen.....because it is so bloody easy to do it right.

Yes, because no-one has has the money required to do it with 2.6L.

This thread delivers.

Complete wiring diagram is in that link. Complete. Everything.

That's not how a clutch works. It's not a switch. Clutch goes from disengaged to engaged smoothly and takes up speed difference. Throttle applied at the same time to satisfy load change. If you truly have a long rev hang, have you considered that the auto tranny will mask a lot of problems with things like the idle speed being wrong/too high from the throttle plate being stopped too open or a vacuum leak/IACV problem? The manual makes you have to take care of that, via the first paragraph^.

You've changed man.

Hardness is really not an indicator of compressive or tensile strength. It is somewhat inversely proportional to toughness in that harder materials are usually more brittle. This is one of the key complaints I have with the idea of hardness testing cast iron blocks to determine how "good" they are. Further, just because there is a different proportion of a given element in a cast iron (yes, iron, not steel) doesn't necessarily mean that any of the mechanical properties of the resulting cast iron will scale up and down in the same direction as the mechanical properties of the element. One of the whole points of alloys is that the alloying elements often to interesting and unexpected things when combined into the crystal matrix. Nevertheless, pure metallic nickel is about 1000 Brinell and typical grey cast irons are about 250 Brinell. So, Ni is not softer than cast iron. Addition of nickel can close on double the hardness of cast irons - if hardness is what you are after. The problem is that nickel is also used to increase high temperature resistance of cast irons, and when you do so, it tends to decrease the hardness. So ask yourself....why would Nissan add more Ni to the cast iron spec for the N1 block? I would suggest that hardness is not necessarily the most desirable property of a cast iron in an engine block application. Tensile strength and toughness would be higher on the list. Tensile strength only inasmuch as it contributes to the stiffness of the finished casting. The properties relating to castability (how it flows, etc) would likely also be higher. Vibration resistance is an inherent property of cast iron that you would not likely choose to reduce. Well, with a billet block being made from aluminium alloys, like 6061, which is only around 100 Brinell. So....

Not in any meaningful way. Face it, cruising "rich" puts far less heat into the cat than running it under high load rich - and they always run very rich under high load. There are so many better solutions here. All of them starting with installing something useful. A wideband, for one. An aftermarket ECU, for another. I just wish we weren't facing another generation of broke arse people buying GTRs without the f**king financial wherewithal to do what needs to be done and instead trying to drag them around on the bones of their arse, just because they spent their last $75k on a 30 year old Datsun.

It's also the work of 5 minutes to make replacement hard line pieces with a flare tool and 6" of bundy tube.

The switch is supposed to be closed circuit only in neutral, open circuit in all other positions. If it is closed in all other positions, then it is somehow installed wrong, or broken. How you managed to achieve that while swapping the reverse switch is likely to remain a mystery. The other mystery, which we need to solve, is why it is working backwards mechanically.

I would just bite the bullet, go dry sump, put heater into/onto oil tank and pre-heat before driving. Should be possible to use a standalone lithium battery pack + maybe a small inverter to run that heater so you can do it anywhere without drawing stupid power from the starting battery.