GTSBoy

I don't now. I haven't done it. I have participated in putting an R34 Neo loom into R32 before. There are a lot of things that are different. Complete devices that are different, plugs that are different, circuits that are run differently. You basically have to lay the two looms out and the two wiring diagrams out next to each other and make the changes required. I do not know of a recipe book for what you want.

Not without work. They are not plug and play.

Well, it's too weird to be making any guesses. I'd have the plugs out and a borescope into the cylinders before doing anything else. When you say Do you mean to say that you can turn it over continuously? Like, it's not seized or blocked from rotation outright? Only won't turn forwards? If so, would sound perhaps like something has dropped into the timing belt area or has otherwise arranged itself like a ratchet pawl, so that it prevents rotation one way, but not the other.

Nah. But yes. But nah. I did my entire HICAS delete when I also did a Neo transplant. The R34 PS pump was the logical choice to retain on the engine, so I have effectively de-vaned the pump without actually doing so. If I had been keeping the R32 pump for any reason, I would have just kept the rear stage and run it through the cooler, as I advised above. Seems sensible. 'Twere I you, that's what I'd do. Getting rid of the HICAS solenoids in the bay is a good idea, but whether you do or don't is not really connected to whether you de-vane the pump, or do or don't plumb the cooler into the front stage loop or the rear stage loop. You will have to reroute some lines regardless of what you do. It is MUCH easier to do all this with the engine out, which is why I saved the job up for the engine transplant. If you do de-vane it then make sure you plumb the cooler in on the low pressure return from the rack. You do not want to be doing on the HP side.

If it's just a streeter, then you'll probably never work it hard enough to actually require a PS cooler of any sort. But I not only retained the cooler....I installed an auto tranny cooler in place of the shitty little pipe loop. I wont no excuses for excess heat causing me any troubles, even if my car is 99.998% street. So, yes. plumb the loop back into the low pressure return to the pump. Or go one better like I did. Or.... don't de-vane the R32 pump and just run the loop only through the cooler instead of via the back of the car. Same same with less work.

Speed mismatch coupled with some synchro wear. Gearbags are not full of magic. They have their limits.

Not enough turtles in that shot. It's actually turtles all the way down.

It's still Thursday night where Sean is.

Yeah, and the AFM, and the injectors.

The loom and its plugs.

You'd need to add a way to observe/quantify the water flow rate through a radiator hose.

It is possible that the impeller vanes in the water pump have corroded away. Would need to have spent some time with bad coolant (ie rusty water) or possibly with an electrical problem (that would drive galvanic corrosion). Otherwise it sounds like head gasket.

It should be. It's the only option (other than the cross flow, which you don't want, and the one with the shroud and fan, which is the same rad underneath anyway). As to the sensor, I dunno. I think the spot for it is shown blank on their photos. You would be well advised to a) look on your own to see the sensor is there and that you therefore need to accommodate it, and b) ask Fenix what their provision is. You might need to drill and tap the hole, or they might do it on request or as a standard option or a delete option. (Mine is in an R32, so it's not the same thing, and I didn't order it anyway, so I don't know what we did for mine).

Yup. Drop in Fenix all aluminium. It's painted black, looks good, takes the shroud. etc.

Yeah nah, because: Something is well f**ked up on this one.

Any mods to the dump pipe etc should include the addition of pressure tapping ports so that some actual science can be applied (in the form of a coil of tubing and a boost gauge).

Mmm. I'm perhaps more in favour of a top level forum category being "Technical" with all the technical things that you have proposed to put under "Performance" and "General" being under there. Suspension and Handling is just as much a part of "Performance" as adding boost or working an NA engine. The main problem you have now is that other categories like "Suspension and Handling", and "Drivetrain" have a mixture of performance mods posts and maintenance posts. Ditto even the "Forced Induction Performance" forum. So unless you're proposing to tease out all those threads (and I can't imagine why you would volunteer or why any one of us would consider it to be a good idea either, perhaps just go with a structure that has "General Automotive Discussion" as a top level, under which you squeeze most things that are not technical, and a "Technical" top level under which you put everything that we already have, just with less of the hierarchical nesting. To be frank, I seldom use any of the forums under General Automotive now. I only respond to new threads in there when they occasionally pop up. Actually, to be even more fair, I really don't browse any forums directly. I just look at the new posts indexes and my notifications to see if there's anything worth looking at. So perhaps just flatten the whole structure down to only have "General" and "Technical" top levels and put everything in under those in as flat a structure as you can tolerate?

Yeah, typically the fuel comes back on as you go below 1600-1700 rpm or so.

Push the catch in, slide the two halves apart. You may need a thin flat bladed screwdriver or similar to insert into the split line between the halves to give a little leverage and you may need the tip of some needle nose pliers or similar to convince the catch to push in. These all get stiff and stuck if left alone for years. You can also spray a little silicone lube into the catch area to try to make it easier to move.

Yeah. given that you can't actually use that much power on the street anyway, it seems kinda pointless to set it up to do so.

There's no real glare. The ground was wet bitumen, so the light on the wall above the cut line is reflected off the ground..

Well, it can, which is why 4 port solenoids and then ultimately CO2/high pressure gas control exist.

Sounds like it's f**ked. It's going to have to come off, so you might as well go do it now while the sun's out.

The vertical wear marks on the top of the cylinder walls did not occur with just a few seconds or now oil pressure. That is from long term wear. The damage on the top of the pistons looks like light detonation has been occurring, also probably over a long period. There could be any number of reasons for all this, from bad fuel to bad injectors, to running a car at 1.3 bar without considering the need to put it on a dyno and check the tune is actually good for it. An ECU upgrade probably would have been wise, years ago. That engine is coming out and you will be able to "save" it. You will not be able to "save" it without a complete rebuild though. No-one in their right mind would put it back together without a complete rebuild, which is going to cost >15+ thousand Euros. Pistons, oil pump, bearings, gaskets, lots of machining work. Then if you're opening it up and doing things to it, you should also put in rods and much better fasteners, head studs, cams, and so on.