GTSBoy

Look to cold enrichment then?

See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.

That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.

This could be sold and shipped to the US for many gold pieces. RMS has no say in that. Ask various Western Sydney inhabitants how it works.

Can't see that being a thing.

I think it's the same. It all comes from the same shithole refinieries in SE Asia.

E10, by very definition, has 10% E in it.

2 things. 1. If you're going to buy a ball joint puller/pusher tool that is not advertised as being for the purpose you intend to use it for, then it is up to you to make sure, either before you buy, or after you first try (and possibly fail) that it will work for that task. 2. WTF? Putting HICAS balljoints back into a car implies retaining HICAS, which is just....dumb. HICAS can lick my left one.

After cleaning the contacts in the remote, if it has rubber carbon pads on the buttons, give them a little wipe with a 2B pencil to add some fresh carbon back. Just a little wipe. Not too much.

0

Turm it all the way over and send a photo to Morgs?

This. And also, the rotor thickness is constrained by the calipers. Cannot be much thicker, if at all. Cannot be much thinner, if at all. New rotors are....fairly cheap. Turbo calipers can still be picked up for sensible money. Arguably, the best thing is to get R32 calipers and put them on mount spacers on 324mm discs. That's about the cheapest and easiest way to get quite large brakes that are essentially bolt on. And that's despite maintaining for years that the R32 calipers are not the best choice because they seem to be more flexy and creaky than the others. If you were prepared to put up with nasty little NA sliding calipers, these will still seem like Brembos by comparison.

Greg, you are the reason you cannot have nice things.

But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!

Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.

Should be OK with the right lube.

If that were true, you wouldn't have either of your kidneys by now.

Possibly, but you know that these are what I'm talking about, yeah? They might not suit!

Or take the car to your local TAFE and ask the body building lecturers which of their 4th year apprentices needs a decent project to make something to go there. That's how my dad got all 4 guards for his '24 Dodge made. Granted, he was a lecturer at the TAFE at the time! But not in body building. No favours needed to be exchanged, because they're always looking for good projects for talented apprentices to take on.

Just use the holes to mount a flowing fake moustache?

Yeah, this is what quick jacks are for, for those that have the luxury of needing to garage shuffle. I just drive my car every day. My Skyline is my one and only daily.

If I had to invent a name, I'd call it "Inner Body Side".

Which part of this sounds like the wrong thing to do? I'd say, almost all of it.

Plenty of people have been doing exactly that in Australia for many years. All it takes is to only fill up at servos with E85. And that is not that difficult. I drive past several such every day. The main pain is the consumption rate and having to fill up more often and stash more jerry cans in the shed.

And, you really want to be over 40% eth, probably 45-50, to realise almost all the benefits. E30 leaves a lot on the table.