GTSBoy

The base circle dimension would need to be identical on them for it to work. Beyond that, I don't even know if the cam journals are the same, if the attachment for the timing gears and VCT actuator are the same. The CAS drive is definitely different on the exhaust cam. If the base circle dimension is not identical, then....lifters would be a problem. The Neo is shim over bucket solid, and the vanilla 25 is hydraulic. If you throw a cam with a different base circle onto a hydraulic lifter, you might take it out of its correct dimensional range and have it lock up or collapse. I would just some Kelfords cams. The R32 GTR/GTS4 wiring diagrams are here. I shall presume from your profile that we're talking about an R32, and not something that came with an Rb25.

Where is the wiring diagram? The wiring diagram tells all!

There's only one way to fix this stuff. f**king test light! A multimeter is $10. !!!!!!!!!1 one juan

Yeah, nah. It's the viscosity of the silicone fill fluid. It is available in....many different gooeynesses. You can't split the Nissan ones, but you can split the Toyota ones and there have been numerous successful reports of refilling them with different silicone oils and different quantities - learning the parameters that control how they operate.

Well, that's not roll over noise. That's tattered bearings, for which there is a fix.

Remove pads. Scuff them back on some very flat, slightly rough but not too rough concrete, put them back in and attempt to bed them in again. If that doesn't work, discs off, onto disc lathe and give them a little skim. As well as another scuff of the pads.

What is an ICM? Beyond that question.....pull out the wiring diagram and the multimeter, and go to work finding where the power isn't.

They don't all have the same temperature setpoint though. Very hard to know what that is too.

Which I guess means that braided lines for an R32 GTR/GTS4 would be the thing to buy.

They're noisy at idle. So what's new?

I can't answer the exact question, but.... custom braided lines are not hard to organise. I'd just front up with measurements of the two parts of the hose length (from body fitting to strut mount, from strut mount to caliper) and samples of the fittings needed at each end, and....wait 30 minutes.

And..... what model? Here's a big recommendation. Do not consider operating the car with a significant turbo upgrade on the stock ECU. You really need to be tuning it, otherwise you will blow off the end of the stock maps and be running in "make it up as you go along" land.

No. Apart perhaps from removing the carpet under 3 of the mounts and slotting the 3rd one by about 4mm. Then you gain....4mm.

Fan should spin. But because the viscous fluid in the coupling should be "thin" until it heats up, it won't transmit as much drive to the fan as it can once hot. So the fan runs much slower cold than hot. 33°C is a pleasant spring day here in Australia. It shouldn't be roaring. It should definitely be louder and working harder, but shouldn't sound like a crappy old 4WD. Just to be clear...... when these things fail they don't necessarily fail totally. They don't necessarily just lock on cold. They can still be quiet when cold, but just get noisy at lower temperatures than they are supposed to. I bought genuine Nissan. I gave up on the aftermarket ones.

Fan should be quiet at that time. The clutch should only start to "lock up" as it gets hot. Some but not much. If it is quite stiff, then it's well f**ked. Yup. As per my post above....I think Dayco might be OK. Not 100% sure. I've not had any luck at all with anything aftermarket. Only the genuine original Nissan one.

Whilst being entirely proprietary. The protocol is called Nissan Consult. It's Nissan's own serial diagnostics interface and protocol, only used on Nissans. But any good general purpose scan tool should be able to do it.

Take it a mechanic who has a scan tool.

The GTR was a monster that was born under the sea in Japan. The climate there is not as.....bakingly hot as it is here in Oz. The local Nissan engineers, and in particular the guys who wanted to homologate the GTR to race it here, wanted to make sure they weren't going to suffer any heat related problems. All the grey import GTRs are sans these coolers and do not suffer too many problems. Almost no-one ever thrashes a GTR to the point where it becomes an issue. You'd need to be leaning on the car very hard in fairly hot conditions. Not saying that there are no GTRs out there that had been used in this fashion and needed coolers added. Just saying that it is not the #1 problem. Not even the #10 problem.

Why does this happen in the USA and not elsewhere in the 30 years we've had these cars?

Mode door actuator failure is very common. Pain in the arse to swap out too.

It is called "upper" engine cleaner. Only a tiny fraction of anything moved by it should end up in the oil, so it really shouldn't matter when you do it. If you're paranoid, do it beforehand. In reality, I'm assuming you're talking about putting it in a RB engine, in which case, they hardly build up anything that will get moved by this stuff anyway. I've put a few cans through my car over the years. Never noticed any difference afterwards. I'm not recommending against its usage. It's just that it is a Subaru product for a reason. The engines that Subaru intend it for have a significant problem with building up crud in the intake tract because of the design features of the engine. The RB simply doesn't have those features. Other shitty modern engines (ie, almost anything, really) will benefit from this stuff far more than an RB will.

A honeycomb will help if you can't put it in a "good" spot. A "good" spot will be as far downstream from a previous bend as possible. In reality, it really doesn't matter much either way, because whatever the velocity distribution across the pipe, you just tune to the reading of the meter anyway. It's not as if we're measuring grams per second of air flow here. We're just measuring % between minimum and maximum and injecting fuel to make the exhaust O2 correct.

They either have to religiously stick below the dB limits or just sell the track to developers and give up. Having said that, there is noise about a great deal of grumbling wrt the rather savage effect this has had on all the related businesses in Goulburn. The hotels, etc. Apparently pretty chopped their businesses down in one fell swoop. Apparently there might be some NIMBYs told to pull their heads in by council. Defo a wait and see for the moment.

Why would you need a guide? Find new spot, mount there. Make new hoses to suit and alter wiring ditto.

Just put a little bead of silicone in there and let it set off before fitting.