GTSBoy

What's under the armrest on the back side of the door trim?

Remove. Or bolt to the strut tower like they did in 1990.

I've had some further back and forth with our Irish friend. Car was fine before head came off. Head only came off for pre-emptive/reparative replacement of many gaskets to correct oil leaks, etc. Valve stem seals were put in by a shop. Close inlet clearances and rough running only became apparent after reassembly. There's no information on whether the clearances were tight before the engine was pulled apart. I'm out of ideas beyond taking the head back off, taking it (with the cams) to the head shop, and perhaps testing for teh head having gone soft, leading to valve seat recession.

Yeah, Mishimoto seems to be a dirty word. Their radiators are suspect too.

I've copied in my reply from PM below. The first bit about a "bad cam" relates to a question in the PM. I think the lack of a clear sequence in the OP above is the same as in the PM question, so my reply works here equally well. Let's see if we can clarify that and get into it from there.

I don't understand the question. The HICAS solenoid in the engine bay has nothing to do with the front steering. There is a (very small) solenoid on the power steering rack. That remains connected. So long as the HICAS CU in the boot remains connected to the larger of the two loom plugs, PS continues to work.

NOBODY ever seems to listen when i talk about rebuilding hydraulic components.....so good luck with this advice Ben.

I wouldn't presume that an R33 one would work in a 32, but it's maybe possible. I would, on the other hand, assume that all R32 climate control boxes would work on all other R32s, because as far as I know the pinout never changed and the functionality never changed. 13v is close enough to the correct voltage of a fully charged 12V battery. They should sit at 12.7 - 12.9V anyway. Get the wiring diagram out, and start working out which wire is which, and which wire has power on it (and whether it should or shouldn't have power on it) and go from there. Just poking with a test light is not troubleshooting. You have to understand what you see and what you're looking for.

Any Jap 3" exhaust that is JASMA compliant will have a 2.5" restrictor in it somewhere that f**ks them anyway. Hotdogs are shit. If you want the exhaust to sound reasonable, put a decent sized centre-offset 3" muffler in the middle and the cannon on the rear. Plus, consider a cat. Decat is stupid.

This time I'm quoting the post I reported, so I can say "f**koff" to it. Ban. Ban Ban. Bananannannanana ban ban.

Not a strong enough response. I would lead with, oh hell no!

I thought I smelled deja vu!

f**k! PranK, not Duncan.

Just looks like. Not actually talking to Ravi! Duncan set me up.

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Yuh, could well be dropping the ECCS relay out or not having enough juice to keep the ECU happy as it cranks.

Power the relay. Test for continuity on the switched pins.

That is not "testing". A proper test requires that you prove that the switched side of the relay THEN CONDUCTS ELECTRICITY. Just clicking just means that they're moving. Not that they're working.

You're just as bad, even then. You open up your wallet, get stuff, it won't fit. Get it modded, still doesn't fit. Eventually get it on, interferes with something else. Fast forward 3 months and it broke, revert to previous. 2 months later, repeat with new gubbin or brainfart.

Point to point test the three relays you have there so you can identify where they are connected to, and therefore which relay is which. Mark up a printout of the wiring diagrams with what you find. Use the wiring diagram to tell you where you should have 12V and where you should have earth. And also where earth or power might come from, from some other switch or relay (ie the ignition switch) and then see if you have all those things in the right places.

Pay all that ^^^

Nah. The CD100 and CD110 codes on them are for front and rear. On other similar era cars from the same chassis types, Zs and V Skylines) that had different tyres front and rear, there was also codes like AL400 and AL410. Exactly as I described in my earlier response to the thread. They are different wheels, but only because of the stud to prevent you putting the rears, which carry a fatter tyre, on the front. Seems like a stupid solution to a stupid problem that didn't have to exist. But this was when Nissan was beginning to suck.

Greg will become a verb. As in, to "Greg" something. Where Gregging involves taking the very very very long way to make something that was OK before slightly worse than it was.

Crack pipe coupled with JDM yo coupled with "I know what I got". The only thing missing is old logo Nismo.

Perhaps look at the post immediately above yours.....