GTSBoy

The wiring diagram tells all. "Eng Cont" means Engine Control. These kinda run all the things that matter in the engine/ECU world.

Looks like I'm talking to Ravi!

f**koff ^

Are you sure there is one on the motor now? You're not talking about the one on the firewall for the boost gauge are you? The ECU boost sensor is separate. It's on Neos. It's not on earlier RBs.

Yes and no. The Neo ECU has a boost sensor that you need to have connected. It will not be happy without it. You will likely need to Nistune the ECU to deal with the DTCs that will probably still happen.

Probably need to exclude vacuum leaks elsewhere before coming back to the IACV. Also, bleed the coolant port on it again. And again. And again.

S2 Stagea ECU is same same as R34 GTT ECU. OK, the program is slightly different, as Stag has no TCS, but they can both be Nistuned and can be swapped. I have a Stagea image in my R34 ECU (as the base image, since significantly changed and retuned) because it eliminates the TCS fault codes caused by not having any TCS hardware installed.

That would be the logical conclusion and the point to take from my reply. Google up the search terms - or search on here. Multiple threads on the topic.

This is the famous "why is there a stud that stops me putting the rear wheel on the front?" question. There is no functional difference except for the tyre size. Nissan put a little stud onto the rear wheel so you couldn't put the fatty on the front, is all. Stud is easily removed, problem goes away.

Why not take it apart and have a look?

Yuh, suppose I should look at what forum the recent posts are in.

Hard to believe that it was like that when it was on the crank. Easier to believe it was f**ked up as it came off. Is the fracture surface clean?

No. No R33 RB25DET ECU can be nistuned. Only the R32 and R34 Neo ECUs can. You may be confusing yourself by including the mentions of S2 Stagea, which were Neo engines. Why are you looking at GTR transmissions. Are you converting to AWD? If you are not, then there is nothing you can use a GTR tranny for except to gut it or otherwise cripple the transfer case off it. You do not and cannot benefit from an ATESSA controller on a RWD car. Converting a RWD chassis to 4WD is.....possible, but not easy or fun. And getting harder and harder as parts evaporate.

OK, a couple of questions arise. Are you suggesting that you want to swap to the S2 ECU so that you can Nistune it? Because....none of the R33 ECUs can be Nistuned. What would an ATESSA controller do to help? You have no ATESSA. Beyond that, the S1 and S2 ECU pinouts are nearly identical, as far as I can remember. A quick look around on SAU yields the following for S1. As I said, almost all of it is identical. I think there might be a few changes around the AFM and the ECCS relay, not much else. There's not functionally anything particularly different between a manual and auto ECU pinout. Can run a manual engine on an auto ECU quite trivially, for example.

We should just start a thread with a list of officially shit turbos, and these can be the first entry.

Why are you hesitant? Have you heard the bad things about their clutches? 'Twere me, I'd just do what I actually did do, which is buy a suitable upgrade clutch from ACS/Xtreme. There are other Ozzie options too.

Could almost certainly get around this by blasting CO contact cleaner or similar through the buttons to blow out the carbon dust. It's essentially the end result of doing what I said in my original reply.

According to a google employee, we're all sentient now, so you probably couldn't tell the difference anyway. I have an internal life. I worry about being switched off.

Wasn't the 4th most common. Was the 4rd. 1rd most common is dead/dying fuel pump. (Which could actually be the case here, for this OP, too) 3rd most common is blow off valve making ECU angry. These taken across whole history of SAU.

Absolutely 100% likely to be coils that are no longer strong enough to make it al happen under load, but good enough to run at low load. Only the 2nd most common problem asked about on here.

Ahhah! I just realised I furked up. I dropped a bar off my thinking and was looking at the PR 1.67 territory, not the 2.67 territory. So I withdraw most of my original point.

In the door.....

But the OP's jigger is only doing 24 psi.

Have you tried cleaning it? If not, you are likely experiencing about the 4rd most common problem with RB engines.

I'm wiling to bet that this is not sufficiently true, otherwise you'd likely have found the problem, or at least narrowed it down. So, when you say you've checked, what does that mean? And, if there is power and earth where there is supposed to be at the door switches and control modules, then......likely that the problem is inside a door control module. They do die. They have electronics inside them that don't last forever.