GTSBoy

No. Cats have heat shields on them, usually mostly on the top, to stop their incredibly high running temperature from baking the crap out of the underside of the car. They are placed close to the engine to heat them up as FAST as possible, not to the highest temperature possible.

W/O looking, I thought the ECCS & IGn relays were brown on an R32, but whatever. That's the spot where they belong, regardless of what colour they are.

So, JDM garage say they can get them on backorder. Which suggests that others who deal with OEM parts could also get them and/or keep them in stock (although I'd be super surprised to find anyone bothering to stock them, seeing as how they're likely to be almost never bought. So, have you tried Nengun and all the other equivalents?

Yeah, be careful with that. Perhaps heat wrap up to the cat but not the cat itself. Overheat a cat at your peril.

I'd be close to 200% sure that there is no long/medium runner length option that you would want to use. That IMR manifold looks interesting (although, why the living f**k did they think they needed to lobsterback it together!!!???!! Just stupid!). But I'm pretty sure that there would be compromises wrt ancillaries and so on that you'd not like to live with. Getting to the stuff that lives under the manifold will be harder, and it's already hard enough. Plus, the alternator access looks less nice. So, that leaves the shorter stuff, and if I had to go down that path, I'd just suck it up and pay for Hypertune.

Duncan mentioned the ECCS relay several times. It is very possible that the ECCS relay is crook. It might not be making good contact on its switched side. Take it out, check it out, try a known good one if you can. The alarm comment is also solid. Properly installed alarms/immobilisers get in the way of the power feeds to the ECU and starter circuits and can easily cause this sort of crap.

No. It's been posted in this thread before. That sort of cut is what is done to prevent anyone from attempting to put a written off car back on the road. The fact of this thing coming up "clean" without an entry on a WOVR is a mystery.

You have a non-stock, bastardised ECU setup. I'm pretty sure that we're going to struggle to work out why things change between having the Fcon plugged in or not. Recommendations to throw the thing in the bin and install a proper ECU are the only sensible feedback you're likely to get.

I'm with these guys. There is no merit in this plan. You will go broke, and you will go broke repeatedly trying to achieve anything with this car. The costs that you think are realistic, like $1k for an interior, are just laughable. You cannot even find most of that stuff these days, let alone all of it in one hit. Anyone who has all of it in one hit only has it because they have it in a car that is too far gone to be saleable as a car. ie, it's all f**ked. And they will still want to sell the interior bits for >>$50 each, totalling $5k. And they will be all scratched up, faded, broken and f**ked. Did I mention the f**ked part?

She's going stag and wants to turn up in a GTR?

That's the good shell?

Well, any exhaust shop can make you a (better**) exhaust. I grew up in an era where there were no off-the-shelf exhaust systems for anything, so I simply don't see the allure in buying a brand name Jap exhaust. ** Better is a debatable term. On one of these cars, an exhaust will make you exactly 3/5ths of f**k all extra power, and on a VQ just makes that horrible V6 noise. As to a lip and a diffuser........well, the lip might do a little something something, above 180 km/h. The diffuser will do precisely f**k all. So.....what's the point?

Yeah. 18 year old car. Spend money first on suspension bushes, brakes, tyres, before spending anything on the (relatively) useless stuff in your list.

Even better. R32 ECUs have a knob on the side that you can turn back and forth to put the ECU into diagnostic mode and read the flashes off the conveniently located LED right next to it.

There are switches for those, no? TC lockup could possibly be inferred from rpm vs speed also. If it sits dead bang on the relationship given by the gearing, then TC is locked up. If it is in the "band" available from TC slip around the gear ratio, then it is unlocked.

Just do it calculated off of vehicle speed vs RPM.

Bad news, they cost twice as much as they did couple of years ago.

Nah, that's not how the fuses are identified. If you look, for example, just above fuse 14 on the wiring diagram, you will see the 15A fuse for the fuel pump. That's identified as fuse #1, but it is not the top left fuse in the panel. It's the top right. Now, I've never thought about which fuse is which by number/order in the panel. Just used the identification of what it does to find it. In this case, it is clearly one of the IGN fuses, so that excludes all the other fuses in the panel. It also directly powers all those other devices, most of which are just pain 12V switched outputs on the ECU. So if you go to the purge solenoid, or the swirl valve solenoid for the inlet manifold switching, you should find 12V there. You will also find 12V at the IACV, but only if measured direct to ground, not across the solenoid, because the ECU causes the IACV position to be set by PWMing the earth connection through the ECU. I don't know the R34 fuse box at all. If I had to guess, I'd suggest that you're likely to be looking at one of the fuses labelled "ENG A/T CONTROL". Also, it might be possible that the fuse you're looking for is in the engine bay fuse box, although I wouldn't expect so.

Yeah. Don't do this. IACV power is PWM.

Yes. If there was a 5mm interference you would need to space thee wheel out by that 5mm plus as many extra mm as you feel comfortable. I'd not really want to run <5mm clearance, because even though all that stuff looks stiff, there is some deflection. If you only leave a 2mm gap, you might learn how much deflection is possible.

Problem with both your matchbots is the ambient air temp is set to 20. Fahrenheit. Pretty chilly. Has a 10% effect on the power!!!!

Blank it off.

Yeah. I think that was the salient point to take from the video. 4G63 finds itself on a completely different part of the comp map. I just like the thumbnail.

>1000HP 9280 result

I can't see it being the battery or the process of changing the battery as the cause. I would suggest getting it up on a hoist and listening to the engine with a stethoscope, to try to find what this knock is and where it is. The only ECU related thing that could have happened is that removing power from the ECU will clear some learned trims. But that really shouldn't affect anything that would lead to an engine noise, or change in idle rpm. Some people claim there is no such thing as a coincidence. I'm pretty sure that there are coincidences. This could be one.