GTSBoy

I am considering reporting the above 2 posts as spam. First reason.....seems not to know anything about the projector housings that we're talking about. Second reason, link to masturbatory content suitable for Boostcruising or some similar ESL version of same. Upvotes?

Why would it be different?

They usually only fail to close because they're dirty. Seldom because the wax pellet misbehaves.

I can't see how that could be the case. All it has to do is rotate the camshaft, which the camshaft is already doing and already popping the valves open upon demand. The real counteracting force against the oil pressure is the return spring in the positioner itself, no? So, whilst it is difficult to blame the valve springs, your theory might, could, just possibly have something in it. I suggest fitting a pressure gauge to the supply line close to the actuator and see what's what. Maybe the pressure there is disappointingly low until 3.5k.

There's a dozen ways to do this.

Probably almost any Nissan from the same era.

Sorry, I should have read the OP more thoroughly. Sounds like you could be backfeeding the circuit from somewhere, which shouldn't be an easy thing to do if the wiring is original and unbastardised. But because it's a 25 year old car and you've just done a modification that includes messing with the wiring loom, it is actually best to describe it as bastardised and proceed accordingly. Proceeding accordingly would be to presume that your fault is unique to your equipment and diagnosis from afar/past experience will be unlikely to just give you the exact thing to look for. It always turns out to be something f**ked up that was completely unexpected. The method is still the same. Grab wiring diagram and multimeter, screw on the thinking cap, and start diagnosing where power is (and should be and shouldn't be) and where it isn't (and should be and shouldn't be), with the switch open, closed, globes in and out, at earth points, etc, etc.

Well, clearly, in Duncan's photo.....there is no PS reservoir in the stock location. There's a bloody huge turbo there instead!

It is not directly caused by the swap. You may well have broken something during the swap, but the swap itself is not the cause. The most likely cause is the brake pedal switch. You would have had to be stuffing around in the footwell to fit the clutch pedal, so....there's how you break something. The pedal switch will be stuck on, feeding all 4 lights. The reason one of them is not working will be because of a broken globe, or a faulty earth at that light, not because of some magical thing capable of creating a single fault that makes only 3 out of 4 come on. The brake light circuit is about the simplest circuit on the car. Break out the wiring diagram and a multimeter and start finding the fault.

The Sinco website explicitly says, on the non-ABS manifold version's page,

You're slipping. I had to fix that fix for you.

As if it's "much closer!!" It's like, 20% closer, if that. 8000km vs 10000km

We may well be at the point where even the shitty LED bulbs are actually better than a halogen bulb in the original projectors. I cannot, however, get past the need to have a crappy heatsink hanging out the back of the permanently unsealed rear of the projector in order to use a crappy LED bulb. What I'd like to look into next, is.... what is the OEM LED projector from some common car that will serve as well as the HID projector out of the old Honda Accord and be easily retroable?

You only need to make a hard line for the bit that is worst exposed to heat, if you prefer. Just to get the 200 series that bit further away. Then you get to keep the "easier" routing offered by hose for the rest of the run, without having to bend up the hard line with the mm precision needed to put it exactly where it has to go for the whole run. The other thing to consider with heat shielding for the existing hose, is..... double jeopardy. Add another layer of sleeve (larger diameter, natch) over the top. And another possibility that people tend to ignore is that offered by increasing airflow in that area. Grab a small bore (like, 40mm) flexible hose air supply from behind the bumper and aim the air flow to the problem spot. Just blowing the hot shit away a bit can make a huge difference. Can be hard to do elegantly, only provides benefit when moving, but adds life expectancy to the rig.

2x internet points to me! That's a bad looking crack. It could be responsible for your troubles, but it might not be severe enough. Look forward to your report back. This sort of stuff is great, because you have a problem that makes you start looking at the car, and you turn up all sorts of things that you really should fix, and you fix them all trying to solve the problem.

Sure, but that includes "get from the US"....whereas I could do it my way on a Saturday afternoon.

I don't know about NZ options, but should you be willing to send them to Melbs for the rebuild, Hypergear is more than capable of the work, and is also not expensive.

Surely it is acceptable to just wire in some buttons hidden in a small enclosure in the glovebox/console/wherever to provide the map switching without having to swap in a steering wheel?? Just hijack the loom wiring that is supposed to go to the steering wheel buttons and reroute/extend as required.

Oh, and a hammer, for the bending in the vice.

Make the brackets you need. 20x3mm flat steel bar. Hacksaw, vice, drill, files and paint.

Balance almost certainly not important at that mass, diameter and location in the drivetrain. Balanced probably better, sure, but I'd be willing to bet the resulting vibrations from being left as is would be undetectable without reasonably precise gear. Once thing I don't love is the vert close proximity of 2 of the holes. Not a lot of meat there. I know the flange to flange contact is still mostly there, but there would be a reasonable section of the axle's flange that overlaps the really close stub flange's hole - right where you would want to be transferring load. Again, probably about as important as the balance issue, but it still irks me.

True. Could thus get away with removing somewhat less than I calculated above. But probably only in the order of half. Doesn't take much to crank the comp right up.

Correction, I buggered my arithmetic. It's actually ~1.7mm, averaged across the crown, to be removed.

Assuming that there's enough meat there to take away. There might be, or there might not. You need to get rid of about 10cc worth of material, which averages to ~1.15mm across the whole crown, although you'd probably need/want to take more away in some areas and less in others, wrt valve pockets, quench pads, etc etc.

Doesn't matter. I have one of the original quite small ones. The small friction cutting discs that fly to pieces and take out your eye work, as do the thicker fibre reinforced ones. The thinner grinding wheels work. Steel cutting burrs work. Any of the larger Dremels that take bigger discs/burrs are also good. A 4" angle grinder will do the job, if used very discretely. A reciprocating cutter can also work. I just use the word Dremel to indicate anything that can cut/remove metal at a smaller scale.