GTSBoy

Doesn't matter. I have one of the original quite small ones. The small friction cutting discs that fly to pieces and take out your eye work, as do the thicker fibre reinforced ones. The thinner grinding wheels work. Steel cutting burrs work. Any of the larger Dremels that take bigger discs/burrs are also good. A 4" angle grinder will do the job, if used very discretely. A reciprocating cutter can also work. I just use the word Dremel to indicate anything that can cut/remove metal at a smaller scale.

Well, it's f**ked, so you might as well just touch it up with the Dremel or a hacksaw to make it easier to release its grip.

That hasn't been true since the 90s. If anyone is still doing it it is because they are daft.

Material will not make any difference.

$17k AUD? Must be pretty rough. I wouldn't part with mine for less than about $40k these days. And that might be far less than some would be willing to pay if I demanded it.

Steel. Not cast.

You do not want to use 26 rods* and pistons. That is opening up a whole can of worms** that you do not want to open. The Neo combustion chambers are VERY SMALL compared to 26 (or vanilla 25) and so the Neo pistons have a different crown shape. You want Neo turbo pistons. *Interestingly....Neo turbo rods are 26 rods anyway. So, yes you can use the 26 rods, but you really don't want the pistons. ** Waaay too much compression.

And in the context of choosing an aftermarket manifold, when we say "cast"....we really mean "fabricated from cut up steam pipe bends".....yes?

Just Nistune the ECU first. Then replace turbos. Then connect laptop (and wideband) and drive it and make sure fuelling is good and timing is OK on the very first drive.

Again, I can't believe that these threads exist. Back in the 1930s, when someone wanted to find out if the valves on their DOHC Peugeot Grand Prix car would hit the pistons when they advanced the cam timing 3°, they would dummy assemble the engine and find out. Nothing has changed! Except the recipe book modifying scene.

I just love how everyone these days wants to know if the cupholder and glovebox are original spec. Back in my day, we just saw a car we liked and bought the bloody thing.

It's unlikely to be possible using the OG R32 speedo head. I don't imagine that there's a convenient cable drive available for that box. Given that the box's original speed sensor will be electronic, you're probably going to have to look to retroing an R33 or similar head behind the dash.

Not to mention that they're all the same car anyway. But yes. Exhausts are things that can be made, rather than things that must be bought.

Crop dust their neighbourhood with arsenic trioxide?

It's not just lines. It's plenum gasket, inlet manifold gasket, TB gaskets, etc. Whilst Joshua is correct that an internal vacuum leak is also possible, and an internal leak** could in fact result in the low idle ignition timing also, it won't cause the high fuel consumption. Well, it's even less likely to cause it than a normal vacuum leak from outside would, and even that doesn't seem like the normal result of a vac leak. ** What he really means is a dead or dirty/sticky IACV not being able to close enough to bring the idle down.

low idle timing indicates inability of the ECU to control the idle speed down with the IACV, so it is reducing timing to get the speed down. This implies a vacuum leak, which shouldn't cause high fuel consumption (should make it run lean, if anything) but maybe the closed loop O2 control is going overboard. Look for vac leaks with spray can of carby cleaner. Also ponder if the air filter is too dirty. You made no mention of looking at it. Also, if that's not the cause, ponder if the cat has collapsed.

My R32 is <<$1k with Shannons.

This. Proof of a transaction that they were standing right there whilst it happened is proof of a transfer that happened while they were standing there. Well, yes. Presuming that you have done your pre-work and know that there is no outstanding finance on the car, or if there is, that you know that it will be cleared after you pay and possession changes. And also presuming that it's not on a WOVR or wanted by the police for ram-raiding, etc etc. The rego transfer slip is filled out by the owner and handed to you, then you all go about your business. You go to the Bureau of Useless Kents and transfer rego to you.

What you talkin' about Willis? You can v. easily buy LHD Morimotos..... and there is nothing on the outer lens to change the cutoff/beam shape created by the projector and its internals.

I'm not only not on it, but I refuse to click any link that takes me there.

Well, that's good news. I suppose my absolute 100% ban on having anything to do with bookface makes it hard to find out about a lot of things these days.

Oh you rotten tease. There's absolutely no evidence that they will be coming to Australia. Japan only right now and maybe Europe. So fingers will have to remain crossed that they Yoko Oz bring them in.

No, but this is also of great interest to me (unless I will need to remove my other kidney to get them). I have been swearing black and blue that I will be going back to the AD08R after my recent dalliances with RS4s and the like. A new AD0xR seems long overdue and worth experimenting with (by me) regardless of reviews.

Yeah yeah. Turbo first, then screw. But the maths still holds, as you came around to. The simple fact is that the blower gives boost where no turbo ever can, and that's something worth wanting.

Not really - depends on sequential or series, and if doing it series, then depends on the boost target. For sequential, then it's really only ever blower or turbo, delivering either, say 10 psi or 30 psi (or blending between them at the changeover. The requirement for intercooling there is the same as if you were only running one or the other. For serial, let's say that you want 30 psi total boost. You might run the blower at 8 psi. That's a PR of ~1.5. Not terrible for efficiency from a good screw compressor, so the temperature rise is not bad. Now the inlet pressure to the turbo is 22.5 psi (absolute) or thereabouts. The PR from the turbo's compressor is (30 psi + 14.7 psi) / 22.5 psi. That's only a PR of 2 - which is like running a turbo alone at only 14.7 psi of boost. That's well within the ability of very many turbos with good efficiency. If you intercool (and in this case it truly is intercooling) between stages, then you only gain even better results - plumbing complexity nothwithstanding. But in reality, it is no worse than running 30 psi from a single stage and it is actually possible to obtain a total compressor efficiency that is better than any single turbo compressor can achieve at 30 psi (which is an outright PR of 3). If you were to push the limits of what's possible with each stage, say going to 12+ psi from the blower and then trying to run a PR of 2.5 or 3 from the turbo, for a total boost of 60 or 80 psi, then yeah, sure, intercooling as well as post cooling would be essential. But that's not what we're talking about here. We're talking about ~1000HP ~3L engines, which are doable in the 30 psi of total boost range - especially when a free flowing turbine section is part of the mix.