GTSBoy

I still say that a supercharger + turbo is the answer to all this bullshit. Put 500HP worth of screw compressor on board and have it hand over responsibility to the 1000HP worth of turbo(s) at some point where the turbo(s) can and will make all the boost you need, without needing to worry about their boost threshold, etc etc, wah wah. Torque multiplier from idle on up from the blower = more gas to the turbine anyway. You get to use an open housing for reduced EMAP at full noise. Win win win win win. And that's just as a sequential setup. Extra brownie points for doing it in series. Low blower pressure ratio multiplied by low turbo pressure ratio = high pressure ratio with none of the stress that typically results from trying to get it all from one place.

Two boofheads or one derp.

Allright, I'll answer my own question.

What does the wiring diagram say?

Stupid big twins = NOS to get it up, right?

Don't know if there's anything to see. Seeing as those photos will be on a memory card.....why not upload them direct to the thread?

FWIW - I did type "r e t a r d"

And that could still be the problem with Dose's ride. Reading the thread will either innoculate or terrify.

I think this, because (actually, not because of this) because that's not true. He's adjusting the cam gear, not the crank gear. But also I disagree with Ben, because This is not true. The CAS is driven off the centre of the end of the camshaft. Therefore the CAS is in time with the camshaft. The gear remains in fixed relationship with the crank, but the adjustable bit of the gear moves the cam foreward/backward wrt the gear, and the CAS goes with it. So, advance or boofhead the cam by 2° and you have to boofhead or advance the CAS to compensate. Whatever the case, you don't just twist it back..... you do use a timing light to get it set right, in which I do agree with Ben. There. I hope I haven't ruffled too many feathers.

this

If that's where your speed signal is coming from, then yes, it could be. But, given that I can't see how the speed signal would be coming from the wheel sensors, it would seem unlikely.

Yeah, it's not supposed to spin. Spinning would be the bad thing happening, not the occasional stopping of spinning. Care to post a video so we can all do the WTF!? together?

Aren't these small enough that they could reasonably fit on the front side of the passenger's suspension tower? Where the PS reservoir and airbox live. A little judicious relocation of the loom plug that resides there should see enough space made. Or how about on the firewall above the ABS unit?

That's how the aftermarket solid ones are held on.

The key difference here is that the smaller engine will require a higher pressure ratio (more boost) to flow the same amount of air through the engine - hence Lithium's point about there possibly being a need for a different size turbo if that higher boost would put you up against the surge line or way off the efficiency island cf the larger engine.

Was probably just Sikaflexed on there.

Seems fine. You never have 2 grooves facing each other.

Good work.

Get the wiring diagram. Find the source of the power, go there and probe. Then move forward in the diagram until you don't find power any more.

If the block mating surface will work with an o-ring, then use the o-ring that suits the pickup. If you were going to fill the groove to use the gasket, then the best bet would be some epoxy putty. Not bloody silicone! Remember to use a suitable o-ring material for hot oily conditions. Not just some random hardware shop o-ring.

They're starting to succumb to random unfixable electrical gremlins.

8K is a walk in the park for a stock RB20. I simply raised the rev limit on mine (Nistune) to 8300 and ran it hard for years. Stock turbo though. 9k is not hard. Just need springs, and maybe consider the lifters as a potential weak point. Making strong power up there is, of course, a matter of cams and porting and so on, as I said before. Doing all of this, on a forged motor, and not planning to run 22+psi is a waste of time. You need boost and you need lots of it to make power on an RB20. With E85 you should probably be considering 30+ psi. An RB20 is not a good motor for the street. By the time you have them up into the 250rwkW region, you have lag, lag, lag, lag, nothing, then more nothing, then.......wheelspin. As a track engine, kept right up on the boil, more acceptable. For street use, I would seriously not be looking too exceed 200rwkW on a 20, to try to keep it more useful. But even that still matches the description in the paragraph above. I went RB25 and the thing actually accelerates before boost arrives, simply from that tiny bit of extra capacity. A 3L would be even better. If I was stuck with an RB20, I would twin charge it. Screw compressor blowing through a turbo. Make it act like a 3L, then rev like a 2L. I think I might have said this before.

I bet they wear gloves too.

Sounds like clutch.

Front might be the same, but there's no way the rears are. Rear screen is a different thing on the sedan, fo' sho'.