GTSBoy

It's not as simple as it is being made out to be. It's not hard, but there are things that have to be done. Am busy right now, but will try to essay later.

Yeah. OK. I'll say the same thing I say to everyone. You do not have to use 100% throttle all the time.

Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.

Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.

Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.

Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task

Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.

Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?

Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.

Should be close enough. Noting that 88Nm is equivalent to 2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there.

Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?

Yes, important point. Watch the Motive videos with Herman thickness testing the bores and deck. You do not want to push the unlucky (thin) block as hard as you can push the average block.

Pull it out. Put a suction hose on it drawing from a bucket of petrol. Put a discharge hose on it pointing back into the bucket. Add 12V. That will tell you if it works at all. Then put it back in, turn the engine on, and see if there is 12V on the terminals. That would suggest that it runs when the car does and adds its "capacity" to the total pumping system.

Don't take it as a guarantee. It's all a game of statistics. And on top of that, smooth over a thick layer of "quality of spanner spinning" as a further Gaussian curve of probability of failure. You play games at anything above ~400 HP, and you're using up margins in terms of engineering and luck.

It's a fuel pump. EFI, high pressure, but specs otherwise unknown. A bodge job.

800 engine horsies is fine. Will need all the obvious upgrades. Rods, pistons, oil pump, big sump, sump breathing mods. Build for revs because revs are power with less stress on the bottom end compared to boost. Keep the torque down in the midrange, either by limiting boost or timing.

Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.

No. You were quite unreasonably cruel. We're not up to speed with whatever beef might exist between you and the other guy who got a warning, but his behaviour 6 years ago and yours now indicate that it might be time to grow up a bit.

Nothing wears "the most". Different cars will always show signs in a different place. 114000 km is either nothing at all (as in, given the calendar age, nearly brand new) or it's completely unbelievable. We stopped believing numbers like that about 15 years ago. Having said that, my car is up around 270000 km and I have put bushes into some places** as many as 10 times in >25 years that I've owned it. ** FUCAs, which are different on an R32 than on a 33, so not likely to be the same issue for you. I have original ball joints all the way around. They are perfectly fine. Same with the spindle bearings in the front. Tie rod ends have all been done at least once though. Pretty much every other bush in the car has been done at least twice. Some of those in the first 100000km after I got it (which was at a genuine 23000!). Some of those bushes are now sphericals, and they are on a <cough> regular maintenance schedule, hence why my FUCAs have been rebuilt so many times. Half of those 10 in the count above would be in the last few years! 'twere I you, I would budget on replacing everything, for fun and prevention. If they really are 30 year old rubber, they will all be unpleasantly aged in one way or another. Whether that's corrosion of shells, or the rubber cracking, or sagging under the load, etc etc.

Tighten until it starts to get loose again, then back off 1/4 turn?

So that will really depend on what else was changed when it came out. If it is the same front pipe and the same cat back, then yes. Plus you might have to work out what they did with the themperature sensor.

We have 2x Swifts and my plans for a Swift, unfortunately, do not extend to an intake and an exhaust. I've been having dirty thoughts about a 2.5L Suzi V6, AWD gearbag out of a suitable donor, rear floorpan graft to take the rear cradle from same, and either trumpets of evil or a small supercharger. If I'm going to make noise in a Swift, I want it to be anti-social, evil handling and rough. Probably need to be fully stripped inside, matt black paint, plastic windows, 7" wide wheels, big brakes, silly suspension, etc etc etc. I have no idea if any of the proposed driveline components could take the pain. But it would be a hoot finding out.

Is the Stag even ODBII compatible?

Yuh, I think it works with the Nitto gear only. I presume that you're not also using the Nitto gear? Watch the video. Compare the interface between the Nitto gear and washer (on the gear side) vs the stocker and decide if you think the Nitto gear is different from stock there.

There's not a battery backup for an alarm siren or something that's somehow hot to the 12V rail?