GTSBoy

Yes, that is definitely the "worse" thing I was talking about.

This is very interesting to me. In that....."how can I make my car both better and worse at the same time?" kinda way.

So....the genuine GT3071 is good for something like 500 engine HP, maybe a smidge less, and on a small engine like an RB20, almost certainly less rather than more. At 9000 rpm your engine needs to be making 400Nm (!) of torque in order to make that much power. If you want peak power at 9500, then you only need to make 375Nm. So, realistically, despite what the other guys are saying (for reasons I will get into below**) there is actually no "what rpm would you say a turbo this size would Max out at?".....so long as the engine configuration is flexible. By "engine configuration" I mean the cams, porting, compression and so on that determine where it wants to make peak torque and how high it will be able to rev. ** If you're talking about a mostly stock engine, like the other guys are mostly basing their statements on, then yes, you need to match a turbo's capacity to what the engine can use at the stock rev range, or only slightly more. It's all the same calculation - how much boost and mass flow rate of air from the compressor map against what torque the engine will need to make at your anticipated peak power revs, and whether it is then possible to make that torque from that much boost. If the engine can't make that much torque, then the turbo is not a good match. If the engine can make that much torque at that boost, but the turbo can't flow enough (or is actually too large and perhaps running inefficiantly) then the turbo is also not a good match. Doing this from first principles is quite difficult, which is why most people just work from anecdotal evidence, ie "this engine did X with turbo Y", and then extrapolate from there.

Too small for the rev range you're talking about. Do the maths on the torque that you'd expect/want the engine to be making, multiplied by the revs (north of 9k) and that's your power number. That gives you your turbo flow requirements. There's no point in revving it high if it's not making torque up there. If you're not making >350Nm.....

RB20 can be made to rev to 10K without too much trouble, although the hydraulic lifters can be hard to convince to play along. They are 30 years old. The best solution is to twin charge. That way you get the engine to act like it is a 3L at lower rpm and rev like the short stroke 2L that it is up high, with a big open turbine housing to unload the exhaust pressure. A 10K RB20 is otherwise a 6-10K engine. There is no lag down low, because there is no going down there. You stay above 6 or you suck.

I'm not shitting on the approach of retrofitting something from a newer car - I've done plenty of it myself. But I do have to wonder why no-one ever goes to the effort of getting their failed booster reconditioned? It's easy. Just go to your local expert brake company (ie, ABS in Adelaide) and hand it over with $200 or so.

Hi Matt! I still don't know exactly what Brenton ended up doing to make mine work! Never saw the final wiring diagram, then got distracted.

Add dye.

Probably someone's alarm armed blinker.

I would ask the question....is it possible to fix the roof with some steel to replace the bloody stupid glass that someone** jammed in there mistakenly thinking it was a good thing? **Yes. I'm including Nissan.

Hens' teeth. Good luck.

You mean radiator lower support? Why not fix that one?

I'm of the opinion that the correct answer here, assuming that aftermarket crank trigger is the main desire, is to go the whole hog with the Haltech properly wired in. Surely the Hoff would be all over making that happen.

Yeah, but they kinda did.

'Murica! f**k (the ozone layer) yeah! My guess is that Japan will be like here. They may still eat whale meat, but they're pretty tight on a lot of climate/pollution regs, etc.

A refrigeration mechanic is the only person allowed to work on car AC and they should not mess around. They should pressure test, vacuum down, recharge and dose with correct amount of correct oil. They should put in dye if there is any suspicion of an ongoing leak.

I struggle to see your problem. The stock ECU pinout diagram exists. Simply hold it up next to the Haltech one and ... presto?

Constant 12V means that the other side (the earth side) is the switched side. If there is no earth there, then the switching device is not switching it on. The IACV is not just a simple device though (ie, not just on-off). Look at the manual for what you can expect to see when it is working, and what you might see when it is not.

Spend ~$1k getting it cleaned up as much as possible** and perhaps yield another $5k? Seems reasonable. Spending anything more than that, hoping to yield multiples of what you spent seems much more risky. The car will sell regardless of condition. You don't need to clean it up at all and I guarantee it will move. ** Some brush touches on chips and a general go over by a detailer.

Nah. But have driven rally cars with solid diffs, Silvias and so on. Just a lot of clunking and banging and understeer and hoping that nothing else breaks for all the loading and instant unloading of the driveline as the tyres grip and let go.

Yeah, nah. They are f**king awful for anything other than full throttle.

Structural coatings are the best coatings.

Shagged clutches. Chain wear.

I was going to say earlier that the transfer case is a serious contributor to such problems.

With a crack on the inlet side, the block is so much more likely to fail on the other side if you push the power levels much. So.....just hold your breath.