GTSBoy

2 points. There's not enough difference between the resistance readings of the genuine and fake Z32s in the OP to represent any diagnostic/differentiation tool between them. Most importantly, seeing as the resistance of the internals is not what determines the output of them.....trying to split them on resistance is most unlikely to work. They are an electronic circuit that outputs a 0-5V signal based on how much current it finds itself using to maintain the hot wire at the target temperature. More air flow = more cooling = more current required to maintain the temperature. All the magic is inside, not at the resistance between the terminals. No-one in their right mind would even consider using a Z32 AFM these days.

Since about 2005 actually!

Just do the pinion bearing. Well, obviously also do the side bearings if it looks like they'd need it when it's apart. Get an expert to do it, as the (pinion) crush tube is a bit fiddly.

In his sig.

You can get them reconditioned. I've done it on an Alfa and on my R32.

Correct.

It's AC. The two wires are equivalent.

I shall presume that those are optional crank triggers. 12 tooth or 36 minus 2 tooth, for aftermarket ECU timing input.

Box out. Work out which carrier you should have in it.

Hmm. Let's see. R32 right? So, 30+ years old. Critical to engine health should the (30 year old) rubber let go? Yup. Seems like a legit way to save money. Just buy a new one.

As he said. Slave rod moving from early in the pedal stroke all the way to the floor. Not just starting to move when the pedal is halfway down (or worse).

Not interchangeable. I don't even know if it was possible with rewiring. Do some deep searching. There would be plenty written on the topic over the nearly 3 decades that it has been an issue.

Obviously the gauge is faulty. Hi fuel consumption is most probably borked O2 sensor. Could be damaged exhaust (crushed), blocked cat (unlikely), dirty air filter (highly likely). You should be able to get 10s driving around in the suburbs in an NA auto.

Oh....and I forgot seatbelt anchoring points. If these are not entirely captured on the seat, then you'll have to be able to put these in too, which is just as bad as the seat mountings.

You'd probably have to pick a seat from a foulcan or other similar sized wagon that you reckon you can make fit....or a brand new one from Wiltshire's if that's your preference, then speak to an automotive engineer about what would be required to beef up the rear floor area to be able to mount seats to it. You're almost certainly going to need to put in stiffening braces across it (think of the big box sections across the floor under the front mounts of the front buckets) and some suitably load-spread nuts welded in at the appropriate points. The engineer will have to sign off on the design and the implementation. Regency will probably want to inspect. I think you should go to the department's website and have a look for what they have published on the matter. There is almost certainly guidance on fitting auxiliary seating to light vehicles, including instructions on engineering, etc.

In all seriousness, near new 11th gen i7 15" laptops go for ~$500 (plus some costs) at auctions all the time. You'd be mad to go to bookface ripoffplace which is where people who buy them from the auctions resell them for a profit.

Take your pick https://www.grays.com/computers-and-electronics/computers-and-it-equipment/laptops

I wouldn't bother unless; You're having fuel temp related problems that you didn't mention, or You're going to change the way that you use the car that could/would lead to heat either increasing or being more of an issue, or You like introducing more points of failure.

I just cleaned a little chaff out of my PMs. Hadn't realised that it was now over the size limit. Try again. I'll have to go back and sweep it out a bit more too.

Phase change is a wonderful thing. Can apply it to your water as well as your refrigerant. There are some orders of magnitude difference between the latent heat of melting of water and the specific heat capacity. The crude form of this is the ice box. The possible form includes the ability to refreeze the ice, thus reducing the mass of water needed to achieve the goal. Example at the opposite end of the thermodynamic spectrum. A friend's company is using molten silicon to store heat. Originally it was intended to store heat created by passing excess electricity (solar, wind, etc) through radiant heater elements, but the idea has expanded to allow it to be fed from other forms of excess heat. Biogas from landfill, for example, burnt and the heat transferred directly to the storage medium. You can input heat into the storage medium from one side and extract heat from the other side simultaneously. Generate power, or use the (very high grade) heat off the extraction side as you will. Anyway, the point to be made is that a unit the size of a couple of shipping containers can hold the energy contained in MANY of the lithium battery shipping containers in a typical lithium grid battery. The energy density available in phase change storage is....large.

Just dealing with that separately.... that's all obvious and at the simpler end of what we're talking about. I do P1V1 = P2V2 calcs in my head every day. Standing at the pitot traverse point in a stack converting the raw velocity I've just measured into a volume flow rate in Normal cubic metres per hour, to within a typical accuracy of 5%. By the way, the definition of Normal conditions is 0°C and 101.325 kPa, in case you were wondering, or confused by all the American websites that would like you to think that 15 or 20 °C (or, shudder, 60 or 70 °F) is Normal.

Didn't say that you were going to make the same power increase at the crank as the heat pump leverage gave you in terms of cooling from the input mechanical power. Did say, unequivocally, that heat pumos DO yield multiple times the cooling/heating effect as the mechanical power put into them. Did say then that you would yield a substantial amount of cooling power to remove heat from intake air as a consequence of using that mechanical power to run the heat pump. Did say that, say, 12kW of heat removed from ~500HP worth of air could pull 60°C worth of heat out of the air. Did suggest that a 60°C colder charge would make a substantial power increase over running the same amount of air hot. Denser air is obvious. Timing advance increase is obvious. Did then suggest that if it only took 3kW of engine power to run that heat pump, it seems very f**king likely indeed that you would yield a lot more than 3kW extra power. If you couldn't, then there is no way that the intercooler would have every taken off, because.....that's what they do. We're talking about 3kW as a breakeven point here. Did suggest that you wouldn't bother for another 3kW (ie, zero benefit). Did suggest that you'd need some sizeable multiple of that to justify the weight and complexity. But....look back at the intercooler example. Did adding an intercooler to a typical turbo engine yield about a 10% increase? I'd suggest that most of them did. Hell, people are looking for multiple % increases just from using better intercoolers in place of an existing intercooler. Did also suggest that the time to use the heat pump would be when NOT demanding all the power that the engine can make transmitted to the tyres. Use the unused capacity to bank some cold, then use that when WOT. Cannot see how this is so hard for people to follow. By the way, my degree includes 4 years of thermodynamics. My career includes 25 years of thermodynamics. It's difficult to suggest that I don't know what I'm talking about.

Little bits of sharp/abrasive plastic just slough off them. They should only be used when you're going to scrub down with solvent/water afterwards.

No there wasn't. Not hen it came out of the packaging, anyway. They scored it and didn't notice.

Definite potential cause of problems. Get rid of it. You don't need it. There is Nistune in the world. Yes. Well. Do.... again, because, obvious reasons. Your ECU hates you for having it VTA. This could be what is driving the boost drop, because the stock boost pressure is about 5 psi (on the spring) and the solenoid bleeds it up to about 7.