GTSBoy

I just have the pop tune. But if you space the pops closely enough together, you get a crackle effect.

Set it on fire. That's a hell of a problem. Set it on fire. Set it on fire.

I originally told him coca-cola. But he wouldn't believe me. It's a shame because I was interested to see the sticky but rust free boot floor.

I don't see any rust. And I've already told you - phosphoric acid.

Typical Daewoo stupidity.

So....there's your answer. But..... normally you do not do it this way. Normally the alarm has its own remote and the alarm has an output when you disarm it that signals the car's locking system to unlock. Not the other way around, like your alarm's instructions seem to indicate. Why not buy a UK suitable alarm and install that?

He told you to get a GTX3076. Your choice then is between a genuine Garret one (which is $$) or a knockoff, which is cheap, and cheerful enough for an old datto. He also told you that choosing the turbo is only one of many decisions you need to make. Fuel system, management, intercooling, gearbox strength, diff, brakes..... all of these things come before the actual power making device (when the car has none of them to start with).

Oh, the farts are still there. They go deep.

Noting that it is illegal to modify a number plate in any way, in all states of Oz. That means no bending the ends, or cutting them down. The only really legal way to do it is to space it out. Sad, but true. Unlikely to something the cops pick on on its own, but on a bad day, it adds to the suck.

Looks as good as any other 30 year old GTR seat.

Leave a photo of you holding a Glock on the driver's seat.

It's a better than even chance that someone has hamfisted it in the past and burnt tracks in the ECU. Open the ECU and look closely (magnifying glass) at whatever tracks you can see that run from the Consult related connector pins. There might be something visible. Of course, there might not. There's pull up resistors and other doohickies involved in those connections that can get trashed without showing much in the way of burn. The Consult related tracks could also conceivably have been damaged in an unrelated incident. It's not unknown for injector or ignition drivers to get destroyed, taking out tracks. It might have been repaired - but only repairing the things needed to make it run the engine. There's a million scenarios like that.

The car actually seems to be in unreasonably good condition. Must have been locked up in storage for a while.

Of course it's Barnaby Joyce. Let's see. Federal MP? Check. Minister of the Department of Infrastructure? Check.

Yes it can, but there are many reasons why you don't want to do that. That is well into expert territory. Twin AFMs, twin O2 sensors, mapped for a different engine size and injector size, etc etc. You'd need to Nistune it to be able to use it, plus deal with all those 2 for 1 problems. As I said, doable, but definitely non-trivial. If you can't find an RB20 ECU, just buy a 2nd hand aftermarket ECU like a Haltech that someone is upgrading from.

Note sure that it matters when better cams are available. Lift is king. https://www.kelfordcams.com/global/camshafts/nissan/rb26dett/182-b-camshaft-set.html https://www.kelfordcams.com/global/camshafts/nissan/rb26dett/182-c-camshaft-set.html

France? Netherlands? Germany? Ireland?

In a very timely sighting, I just spotted a gunmetal R32 GTR cruising along Estuary Drive this afternoon. I nearly lost my shit!

I think Johnny's next reply would be something about a 3.2 upgrade and Samsonas.

Sadly, there's more than one misapprehension regarding my circumstances in your post. First up, I don't drink, so there's nothing to take the edge off. Second, my car is 2600km away, at home. If it wasn't for the Ctek charger the battery would be f**ked because I haven't driven it since early August. Bunno is pretty, in the summer time. Which, sadly, is coming to a rapid end. It's hot today, but the mornings are getting darker and colder and ti won't be long before it is raining every day again. Yes. Between the shitful nature of the place and the border closure, I have been receiving it dry and without protection for many months now. Yeah, I only see that ratty black R33 regularly, and one or two others from time to time around here. At least there is plenty of old chrome bumper stuff paid for by exorbitant tradie/FIFO earnings dribbling around on the weekends.

Yes. Agreed. Apart from one good data point I have (my Neo, tests on a trustworthy comp tester at ~170 psi on all 6) which shows that a healthy Neo can generate substantial cold comp pressure, there's nothing wrong with 140-150 psi. As Duncan said, it could be a little worn, could be technique, could be a slightly low reading gauge, etc etc. 9% variation does suggest that some of it is wear, because clearly some have worn more than others.

And Wongy's a good bloke. If it goes pop, he should replace it.

R32s are limited as to how much caster you can wind in by the upper arm bush binding problem. But adjustment is not the issue here. The issue is preventing any movement along the axis of the rod. Even poly bushes allow several mm of movement with longitudinal loads. Pushes the wheel fore and aft and affects every part of the wheel alignment in a bad way.

I'm thousands of km away from home, so can't look at the spare in the shed (to see what power rating and what tooth count).....but pretty much all RB starter motors bolt up and work.

There's more than a few here in Oz with VQ30DET. Many in WA, as there was a shop over here that specialised in the swap. The Skid Factory (Youtube) have a series on an R32 with one in it. Using the stock ECU might be a recipe for tears. Be prepared for it to fight you. You might be far better off jumping straight to an aftermarket ECU.