GTSBoy

Yes, that's the primary input to seed the random number generator they use to decide the clutch actuator pressure in the diff.

Not true. I'm not talking about those shitty all-in-one borescope things. I'm talking the ones that connect to an app on your phone. Quite good resolution. I use one regularly for inspecting the insides of industrial equipment. They are cheap, cheerful and I wouldn't be without one.

What do you mean by "optimised"? Are you talking about just getting the carbies set up and tuned nicely, or are you talking about a high comp rebuild with porting and a cam? The thing to remember is that the L20 is a very small NA 6 cylinder that can't muster a lot of torque. if you work it, you will be able to make a nice bit of extra power, but it will all be up high in the rev range and there will be even less torque down low (because of fat cam lower gas velocities through bigger ports). If you want to make a screamer, then yeah, work it, put a good set of pipes on it, tune it up, etc. But if you want to make a nice street engine then more capacity will always be the first option. If your question is just about choosing between just tuning the carbies up or going for a bigger motor (which is not a very sensible question) then...... it will clearly cost a lot less to get the carbies done, and the result will be much nicer, but not in any way comparable to an upsized engine.

USB/WIFI inspection camera is only $30 on eBay. Just sayin'.

Hmm. Yes, well, the GTX3582 would have been the recco prior to G series, and now I would have thought that either of the G30 or 35 900s would have done the job for what you're after. So I agree with your choice space. I tend to think that the G35 is probably worth a go, with the smallest rear housing that will reach the goal. I should probably let others speak to that. If response is important, then you will likely prefer the twin scroll option over the V band options, although I** worry that the TS 0.85 rear will limit the 500kW target. **Perhaps needlessly, again, wait for others to weigh in.

iIf Exedy supply it, then they trust it, so it's probably perfectly fine. But, If they're dimensionally the same, I'd lean toward the Nissan one, just from automatic racist anti-chinese unknown brand prejudice against the NIS one.

Looks like it might have been set up to run a gearbox oil cooler. Which is probably not a good sign, as it probably had a hard life. At least the owner cared enough to do it, I suppose.

They probably expected all GTRs to be drifted into trees and telephone poles before needing a transfer case oil change.

No. Not necessarily. Duncan told you that already.... My underline and bold emphases. Just substitute ATTESSA for A-LSD in your case. But, if perchance your A-LSD was not functioning properly because of this failed sensor, then it is a prime opportunity to fling the smelly piece of crap in the bin (the whole A-LSD system) and replace with a diff that actually works properly.

Unless they're bent enough to rub on the bore, which usually doesn't happen because bends that large usually increase the crankcase ventilation quite a lot.

f**k. You're a madman. When you said "dash" I thought you just meant the cluster. This is a whole 'nother level of unnecessary f**kery. Good luck.

Must haves some altered mounts to be able to sit an RB on it.

Yeah, I would have said "bottomed out except with 1-2mm left to go, so the grease has a chance to push it out when you go ghetto hydraulic on it".

See, it's nuggets of info like this, delivered deep into these threads that are always so infuriating. Freshly charged battery. Comp test it. Drain old suspicious fuel. Pump new fuel through the fuel rail and drain it off. Old fuel goes in the lawnmower. Remove crossover pipe to TB. Spray ether in there through opened thottle plate. Then crank immediately. None of this "sprayed it in the intake", which I presume is pre-turbo.

I shall presume that the AFM got wet and might not be good. Will also therefore presume that the air filter is wet and won't flow. Not that these should stop it firing completely, just stop it from actually making it all the way to running. Time for a compression test, just in case something from far left field has happened. Are the cams (and hence CAS) actually turning? Declaration of spark and fuel not clear as to whether it was cranking or just hand spinning the CAS.

With the caveat that some IACV/AACs have plastic screws and can be damaged by hamfisted turning. With the caveat that RB20DET and 26DET do not work this way for detecting idle condition - they have an actual throttle closed switch.

He's gunna have to drive on 4 studs down to Total Tools to buy the tap and handle!

It's.......helicoil time!

Yeah, driving on 4 is why you have 5. This is a poxy Eruo, no? Female thread is in the hub? Did you try one of the other bolts in there to see how it feels?

So plan for it to go to a panel shop to be welded up and painted when you do have access to it.

Yuh, So, weld up holes you don't need. Repaint.

Is the Impul lid metal or glass? Not that it matters much either way, because both are repairable.

I will never understand such people. Bling doesn't help in any way.

Yuh, reason I asked is that most times, the battery leads are not long enough to allow that to be done, but might just work if you're happy to reverse polarity!

Please tell me that you had red to red and black to black the whole time!!!