GTSBoy

Listen to this man ^, and the man in the other thread, and also don't start multiple threads on the same website for the same question. Bee R's are dumb engine destroyers.

I understand that. But this guy has unplugged his switch (same as your bypass to get around the missing rubber!) and his lights stayed on.

Wouldn't have. They're not exactly weak things. Even going full travel and hitting the stop at some speed won't hurt them. It is far more likely that you have a simple plumbing problem. Take it back to basics, as advised above.

Leave it. Anything you weld there is going to be so dinky that it has a better chance of falling off at some point and killing the turbine than being useful. Because Nissan were using open turbine housings. There wasn't a lot of point in trying to have a perfect divider.

2nd handies can usually be found on eBay. Not interested in running the GKtechs?

Yes......but..... he disconnected the wiring to the switch and the lights stayed on. That's not correct. No wiring = no electrons bumbling along.

Whilst true.... Opening the circuit should kill the lights. This suggests a short. Which suggests that you should break out the multimeter and start fault finding.

BRO! ALL CAPS DAY!

Do you really want to wait until 6500 rpm for boost? Big turbo, small engine, no fun.

There's only dross like that left in Japan. That and cars that actually could pull $60k or more. This because.....drum roll.....it's 20 years since the R34 was new, 30 years since the R32 was new and the rest of the world has already raped and pillaged the available stock in Japan. You would seriously be better off looking to buy one from Australia or NZ, where a GTT might be listed on our carsales site for $40-60k (Oz) and might actually sell for 85-90% of asking price in the current market (or might actually sell for asking - what would I know? I'm not buying or selling at the moment.) Actually, I just realised that that advice was already given by Robbo above. His other advice is also valid. Going back 10 or more years, whenever a dreamer came on here wanting to buy a $10k R32 GTR.....we'd always tell them if you didn't have enough money to rebuild basically everything on it - the engine, transfer case, suspension, rust, etc etc, which would easily add up to multiples of the purchase price, then you would be mad to buy it, because it will break you. If you want buy this rusty shitbox from Japan and have dreams of turboing it, keep in mind that; A turbo RB20 has no torque until boost hits and then it has no traction. The little auto transmission won't hold up to serious power for long and will cost money* to beef up. That converting to a strong manual trans will cost money*. The the stock brakes are tiny and need upgrading. That the diff is open and needs to be replaced. and keep thinking of other things that need to be done, because there are quite a few of them. And where I say "money" above, I mean more thousands of $$ than you would expect. So, by the time you buy the rusty shitbox, pay to ship it and get whatever govco arse-rape tax etc dealt with, cleaning costs, asbestos certificates, etc etc, and then consider the costs to make it into the car you would like it to be (instead of the rusty shitbox that it currently is) you are going to be quite a few multiples of the balls deep that your current budget appears to extend to. And so we return to buying something known good from Oz/NZ or even pre-existing in the US. For a lot more money than where you think your are.

Well....unplugging the sensor isn't going to do anything. It's not like it's an active component. It's just a pipe. Have you considered unplugging one pump at a time? If you kill a pump while the noise is there and the noise dies immediately, you've probably found your villain. Beyond that, it is just diagnostics 101. Open the return pipework and have the fuel not go back to the tank. Drop it into an external bucket. See if it's singing as it goes through a piece of thread tape stretched across a fitting, or something equally stupid. It's always something stupid.

There are RWD engines for Skylines. If you're going to spend cubic dollars with going RWD, you'd be best off considering getting an RB30 built with the 26 head. That way you don't have to futz around with all the silliness of the front diff in the 26 sump. But then......why run a GTR as a RWD? Just start with a RWD Skyline?

Neos have N1 pumps from the factory. They also don't get any special treatment wrt the pump drive though, so the drive is just as troublesome as on any earlier RB without a proper drive. If you're going to thrash this engine, you should probably upgrade the drive. I wouldn't worry about the rod cap.

Nothing I said was wrong. What do you know about Neos?

All auto R chassis (and the crappy stag ones too) have rev limiters. Of course they have rev limiters. I can even show you the rev limiter in the factory ROMs if you really want.

Hah! That's not what he wanted to hear.

It's going to be a plenum gasket leak, isn't it?

It's the same AFM. Something else (other than it being the wrong AFM) is wrong. It's usually fuel pressure.

Because we know exactly what car it is that you're talking about....

Why not just fix the stuck pistons in the 34 calipers? If you want to avoid doing, you know, basic maintenance work, in favour of upgrading something for the sake of it, then buy an ATTKD or similar aftermarket 6 piston kit with calipers, pads, and rotors, to suit the actual R34, instead of going through all the stress of working out if the caliper offsets and disc hat heights etc etc from the 35 chassis cars will work on your 34? Or....you know....you could do some searching on here, because the subject of brake upgrades from the 35 chassis cars is not exactly a brand new one. People been putting Z33/4 Brembos on R chassis cars for nearly 2 decades now. There might* even be a comprehensive write up on the subject mentioned many times on this very site. *definitely.

I wouldn't bother. Filling a gearbox is pretty easy when it's installed. Just use a squeeze bag, or a small pumpy pump.

And me sorry too, because I followed your lead with brain switched off and I also actually meant "do you really want to go pull clutch?" So my 1st post should look like: Do you really want to go pull clutch? Would it not be easier to just drill and tap for the push clutch on the R33 belhousing and use the bits you need from the R32? Would it not be better to go all modern and concentric, if not wanting to retrofit push clutch?

Do you really want to go push clutch? Would it not be easier to just drill and tap for the pull clutch on the R33 belhousing and use the bits you need from the R32? Would it not be better to go all modern and concentric, if not wanting to retrofit pull clutch?

Yuh, you need to do one of the options in my post. If your dash can do it for you then you're gold. Otherwise you need to make an Arduino thing. You can get off the shelf boxes to do this. For example, Jaycar have a speedo converter that can take one type of signal and spit out another. But I think a DIY Arduino unit would be smarter. A small amount of non trivial electronics required to receive the AC signal into an Arduino. The PWM output is trivial. There should be a billion examples (not necessarily speedo related, but essentially the same problems) to work from on the net. Let me put it this way - I am no electronic circuit designer, and have no idea exactly what would be required to build the signal handling circuitry and set up the Arduino. But I am damn sure that if I needed to build one of these it would take me about an afternoon to do the research and could build it onto a proto board with one of my daughter's Arduinos that evening.

Pretty sure that's not true Duncan. There is no speed signal output from the ECU - only input. All CUs that use speed signal get it off the same wire from the speedo head.